Spark Plug Change - Any Secrets?

MAMBA

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I just installed the skip shift bypass harness and changed the oil and filter today so I felt pretty good. Next I want to change the plugs. The plugs on the left side should be a piece of cake since they are very easy to get to. Since the right side plugs are very tightly concealed I just wanted to know if there are any secrets to getting the old ones out and the new ones in such as special tools, number of beer breaks, etc. Do you need to remove anything to get to them easier, etc.?
I did a search but didn't find anything really helpful about removing the plugs in the right bank.
Your help is much appreciated.
 

AG98RT10

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Just did mine, in addition to removing the airbox, just take your time, one plug at a time, don't overtighten the new ones! 18 FP or so.
Might want to do the wires at the same time if they've been in there a while...
Call Chuck Tator if you decide to.
 

Steve-Indy

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Suggest that you change wires with plugs...and, go one wire at a time. I generally gap all the plugs first (using OEM Champions at .035), then lay out all of the new wires on a table to check length vs. number when I remove a wire from the car.

After removing wiper arms, (may need a small wheel puller or battery terminal puller to get them off), then remove cowling (4 screws), and, if your arm is big, remove the front two struts that hold cowling in place as they will cut skin easily...(on a Gen II, must remember to put ground strap back on the strut on the left...can't recall if this is the same on a Gen I).


After disconnecting wire from plug, but before touching plugs, I blow out each site with air from compressor, then break all the plugs free...leaving them in place while I reblast them with air. As I remove each plug, I label it, check hole for debris, then gently install plug BY HAND after applying a small amount of Copperslip to the threads.

Once all are in place, I torque them to 18 ft-lbs (subtracting 10% of torque from the recommended 20 ft-lbs due to the antiseize)...noting that I keep a 14mm thread back-tap handy in case of a thread problem.

Then, I generally start on the left side, and go one wire at a time, noting that I do apply a SMALL amount of di-electric gel inside the connectors on each end of the plug wires before I start the exchange...and, noting that I clean plug tip and coilpack electrode before making each connection.

It helps to have multiple lengths of extensions and a universal to get the job done. As I have a "weasel-arm", I really don't have to remove the heater box (4 screws if I remember correctly)..but it does help to do so, especially on the first time.

When wires are in place, check plug and coil pack connections one last time...AND, do a visual check with a small mirror to confirm that number on coil matches plug wire number. I should note that I place the wires in the retaining loombs as I go. Reinstall cowl.

Be sure to check manual, but I believe that the center point of the right wiper blade should be 22 mm above the cowl and the left 40 mm...again, check manual also for torque on the wiper arm retaining nut.

If heater box removed, reinstall, and, if your Gen I Viper has not had the throttle cable adjustor button TSB. resync throttles now, they fire that baby up and FEEL THE POWER.

If I've left something out, hopefully others will correct same...and, I do realize that this is a bit wordy.. please do not take offense at the step-by-step approach as it was written for a non-experienced person ( BY an a equally non-experienced person !!!)

Have fun !!!
 

Rollin4

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Suggest that you change wires with plugs...and, go one wire at a time. I generally gap all the plugs first (using OEM Champions at .035), then lay out all of the new wires on a table to check length vs. number when I remove a wire from the car.

After removing wiper arms, (may need a small wheel puller or battery terminal puller to get them off), then remove cowling (4 screws), and, if your arm is big, remove the front two struts that hold cowling in place as they will cut skin easily...(on a Gen II, must remember to put ground strap back on the strut on the left...can't recall if this is the same on a Gen I).


After disconnecting wire from plug, but before touching plugs, I blow out each site with air from compressor, then break all the plugs free...leaving them in place while I reblast them with air. As I remove each plug, I label it, check hole for debris, then gently install plug BY HAND after applying a small amount of Copperslip to the threads.

Once all are in place, I torque them to 18 ft-lbs (subtracting 10% of torque from the recommended 20 ft-lbs due to the antiseize)...noting that I keep a 14mm thread back-tap handy in case of a thread problem.

Then, I generally start on the left side, and go one wire at a time, noting that I do apply a SMALL amount of di-electric gel inside the connectors on each end of the plug wires before I start the exchange...and, noting that I clean plug tip and coilpack electrode before making each connection.

It helps to have multiple lengths of extensions and a universal to get the job done. As I have a "weasel-arm", I really don't have to remove the heater box (4 screws if I remember correctly)..but it does help to do so, especially on the first time.

When wires are in place, check plug and coil pack connections one last time...AND, do a visual check with a small mirror to confirm that number on coil matches plug wire number. I should note that I place the wires in the retaining loombs as I go. Reinstall cowl.

Be sure to check manual, but I believe that the center point of the right wiper blade should be 22 mm above the cowl and the left 40 mm...again, check manual also for torque on the wiper arm retaining nut.

If heater box removed, reinstall, and, if your Gen I Viper has not had the throttle cable adjustor button TSB. resync throttles now, they fire that baby up and FEEL THE POWER.

If I've left something out, hopefully others will correct same...and, I do realize that this is a bit wordy.. please do not take offense at the step-by-step approach as it was written for a non-experienced person ( BY an a equally non-experienced person !!!)

Have fun !!!

Yep...Steve you did leave something out...save your pocket change in advance to put in the "SWEAR JAR" There is always that "one" that will not cooperate. :eek:
 

Steve-Indy

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Ken, you're right...noting that there are the stuck ones, and, occasionally, the cross threaded ones...remembering a post or two HERE in which it was claimed that the cross threading "came from the factory"...hence, my back tap always ready to go. !!

Good point Cody !
 

FrankBarba

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i will also use a small peice of hose to help start the plugs. attach hose to tip of spark plug. helps get to the hole. can also use to start thread.
 

KWIK96

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Just did mine and have 2 tips
1) After you break the seal on the old plugs, but before you remove them completely, stick a vacuum hose over the plug heat shield. Then you can remove the plug confident that any built up dirt, or even part of a shattered plug will get into the cylinder head. Those shields can become little trash cans over time.
2) A mechanics telescopic mirror is a very handy tool especially on the right side.

I also did the wires, and now she purrs......
 
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MAMBA

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Thanks for all the great input guys. I'm sure there are others new to the world of Vipers that will also benefit from this information. This forum is a great source of information thanks to all of you. In time I hope to be able to contribute helpful "how to" tips also so I can help other future new members.
Thanks again!
 

slaughterj

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I've found that I can't use the spark plug socket with the rubber piece inside to put the plugs in, because the socket stays on the spark plug and slips off the extension when I try to pull it out after tighening the plug.

Instead, I have the rubber piece removed for this. The only issue is then when I remove plugs, I can loosen them, but not remove them with the rubber-less socket, so I use an extension magnet to get the plug out. Conceivably I could just have a second spark plug socket with the rubber in and use that to remove plugs, but whatever.

Also be careful with the washer that goes with the plugs - when installing new plugs, I slide the plug down quickly so as to keep the washer with it and in place - when removing plugs, I make sure I've removed the washer as well (the aforementioned extension magnet helps with this).
 

ROCKET62

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Slaughterj:
I've found that I can't use the spark plug socket with the rubber piece inside to put the plugs in, because the socket stays on the spark plug and slips off the extension when I try to pull it out after tighening the plug.

Instead, I have the rubber piece removed for this. The only issue is then when I remove plugs, I can loosen them, but not remove them with the rubber-less socket, so I use an extension magnet to get the plug out. Conceivably I could just have a second spark plug socket with the rubber in and use that to remove plugs, but whatever.

A little Duct Tape to hold the socket to the extension does the trick - remember the world is held together with duct tape!
 

slaughterj

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Slaughterj:
I've found that I can't use the spark plug socket with the rubber piece inside to put the plugs in, because the socket stays on the spark plug and slips off the extension when I try to pull it out after tighening the plug.

Instead, I have the rubber piece removed for this. The only issue is then when I remove plugs, I can loosen them, but not remove them with the rubber-less socket, so I use an extension magnet to get the plug out. Conceivably I could just have a second spark plug socket with the rubber in and use that to remove plugs, but whatever.

A little Duct Tape to hold the socket to the extension does the trick - remember the world is held together with duct tape!

With my luck, the duct tape would end up stuck down inside somehow :p
 

Achilles99

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I bought a set of long pliers to grab the socket that inevitably separates from the extension... I may have to try the duct tape idea!
 

stokedmule

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don't break one!!!... I did last night.. number 6.. so looking for easy-out and wd-40.. unless someone has a better idea..

my 95 RT10 had 7K miles on it when I bought it 2 yrs ago... now has 21K.. so original plugs torquedunbelieveably tight.. number 7 has thread issues.. I'm replacing wires as I go...

a labor of love!!...
 

slaughterj

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I bought a set of long pliers to grab the socket that inevitably separates from the extension... I may have to try the duct tape idea!

Er, you just gotta know how to put it in quick enough, and then get it really tight so it'll stay in there for a long time! ;)
 

Bird325

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Something else to keep in mind. I didn't do plugs last night, but just the wires (plugs were almost new). I put GTS-R wires on my GTS ... they're 8.5mm wires if I remember right. They're slightly too large for the wire looms! I'll search the site and see what others have done about that.

What I wanted to point out is about removing the wiper arms. I was just about to post to see what others have done, when I regressed back 30 years to my Shade Tree Mechanic days.:D I was about to give up and go buy a gear puller to get them off, and thought 'just give the OLD way a try'. While pulling up on the housing around the bolt, I tapped (TAPPED, NOT BEAT IT TO DEATH) the bolt. You're after a slight vibration here, not a jack hammer approach. The housing came right off and I was on to the task at hand of removing parts to be able to get to the wires.

If you're smart, you'll start on the passenger (right) side. That way, you have the EASY side to do when you're beat up and bleeding.:rolaugh: I love my GTS, but that sucker has TEETH!:lmao:
 

viper k

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befor you take the wiper arms off put some masking tape where the wiper arms lay on windshild very easy to put back in same place
 

jcaspar1

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If you get the Mopar low resistance wires you may get more spark but will get a crackle on the radio/CD player at low RPM. Sounds good with the NGR.
 
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