Temperature Mark on Gage?
- Thread starter cayman
- Start date
dave6666
Enthusiast
Get the car to that temperature via the dash reading and then shoot the radiator inlet neck (not the hose) with an IR. That's what it is in your car.
dave6666
Enthusiast
Doesn't the scan tool simply interpret the sensor, which itself will have variation unit to unit?
The sensor has 2 elements. One that provides the signal for the gauge and the second for the PCM for engine control. The OBD provides the PCM temp.
dave6666
Enthusiast
Um. Did that answer my question?
Unless you are calibrating the PCM to a particular sensor with a scan tool then the variation of each sensor is still in play, right? And I'm not talking about the 2 sensors in each housing. I'm talking about a batch of complete sensors will vary sensor to sensor.
Well I guess if you are worried about the sensor error you must be worried about the infrared sensor error also. Correct? And I think you should have the sensor checked and the whole engine calibration reset due to the error also (said tongue in cheek). The sensor accuracy escapes me at the moment, though I did know it about 15 years ago when it was first developed. I guarantee that the temperature drop across the radiator hose is a larger error factor.
But whatever, the temp sensor has high enough accuracy as it is used as one of the inputs that determines the fuel and spark calibration, which is a bit more important than the gauge position. It is also evaluated against the ambient temp sensor and inlet air sensor at cold starts to ensure that all 3 are operating properly.
But whatever, the temp sensor has high enough accuracy as it is used as one of the inputs that determines the fuel and spark calibration, which is a bit more important than the gauge position. It is also evaluated against the ambient temp sensor and inlet air sensor at cold starts to ensure that all 3 are operating properly.
dave6666
Enthusiast
OK. I agree that there's probably little variation in the sensors from one to another, and that also the IR has a tolerance itself and could be off a tad bit.
But I've got a decent quality IR (~$90) already in my toolbox, but at what $$$ would I have to add a scan tool also?
Some of this will always depend on what weapons are in your arsenal.
But I've got a decent quality IR (~$90) already in my toolbox, but at what $$$ would I have to add a scan tool also?
Some of this will always depend on what weapons are in your arsenal.
True Dave but at some point the scan tool will become a requirement. Plus, you can get the one that allows you to upload performance software.
I get codes way too frequently as I burn out O2 sensors like they are candy. I continue to use them for a long time after they throw the first code (always the same O2 heater ...). So as long as I have the scan tool I can check things like oil temp, coolant temp, inlet air temp, etc with good accuracy. Even O2 to make sure the sensor is actually working and only the heater circuit response is off.
I get codes way too frequently as I burn out O2 sensors like they are candy. I continue to use them for a long time after they throw the first code (always the same O2 heater ...). So as long as I have the scan tool I can check things like oil temp, coolant temp, inlet air temp, etc with good accuracy. Even O2 to make sure the sensor is actually working and only the heater circuit response is off.
dave6666
Enthusiast
What scan tool you recommend?
Try EASE and Auto Enginuity, they are both pc based. Buy an Acer net book and you have a super portable scan tool with unlimited logging capability. The Ease package can be had with a wireless connection to the OBD port.
