Pulling your car out of storage? Jump starting? READ THIS FIRST.

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Hey guys,

Well, its that time of year again... pulling the cars out of storage, and also time of the year for damaged PCM's and other oddities as a result of doing so. Hopefully, this post will save some of you a headache, or at least get you sorted out faster if you do have problems.

The number one cause of PCM damage is Jump Starting, Jump Boxes, and old school Battery Chargers. As the electronics age, they become increasingly sensitive to voltage surges and possible reverse polarity situations.

-NEVER use a transformer/rectifier based battery Charger, especially those with a "jump start" feature! They leak AC Ripple like it was in their design specifications.
-AVOID Jump Starting whenever possible unless its an emergency. And for the love of god, if you do, MAKE SURE THE CABLES ARE THE CORRECT POLARITY.
-Whenever possible, charge the battery with the KEY OFF, and remove the charger before attempting to crank and fire.
-DO use a microprocessor controlled "float charger" to keep your batteries charged. Once a battery goes dead ONE SINGLE TIME, it will never be the same and will degrade quickly.

If you suspect you have a PCM issue:

Turn key on.
If you have:
-No Fuel Pump Prime or constant fuel pump prime.
-No Check Engine Light Self-Test
-No Comms with a scan tool
And you *do* have power and ground at PCM connectors for both Constant 12V and Run/Start 12V...

...Your PCM is damaged.

In the case of Gen-1 cars, *ALWAYS* unplug suspected defective PCM's, as they can be a fire hazard even with the key out and power off.


Please contact us for assistance if you suspect you have PCM issues. We are the primary retail/wholesale PCM supplier and remanufacturer for the Viper [All] and Ram SRT-10 markets, and have been slowly heading into other portions of the market as well, with Gen-3/4/5 BCM remanufacturing, and hopefully soon Ram SRT-10 TIPM's.

And I cannot stress this enough: please consider the source for your parts, especially PCM's. While I plainly admit we are not the cheapest option, we are the best. Period. Full stop. The sheer number of butchered PCM's that come through my hands is staggering. The guy that claims to fix PCM's for 250 bucks on Ebay? Yeah, after he gets done destroying it and collecting his bogus Diag fee, I am the one who has to put Humpty-Dumpty back together again. The quality of work is absolutely atrocious, as you would expect. The larger problem however, is the dwindling number of available cores. Every time these guys destroy a PCM, that is one less in circulation, and things are already relatively tight. To expand on that, having an invalid core is a VERY large cost difference when getting a replacement module. If I don't have access to a fixable core, I need to source it elsewhere, and you are the one that will end up absorbing that other guys diag fee, along with a core replacement or penalty for making my life exponentially more difficult. To add insult to injury, core theft is a VERY REAL thing right now. These clowns know what Viper PCM's are worth, and they have been disappearing left and right. I have heard about no less than a dozen core module thefts and "convenient losses" in the last 6 months alone.

Secondly, please understand... virtually none of these guys have the first clue what they are doing, fixing, or selling you. There are literally 15 different versions of Viper PCM hardware, and I know every single version of them. You cant "reflash" your way to a hardware change. To add to that, there are literally 50 distinctly different software versions, with a different version for every year + Export, Race, and specialized versions. Those guys selling controllers for the wrong year because they happen to look the same? I am sure the various sensors and actuators that changed nearly every model year would appreciate, you know, BEING PLUGGED INTO THE PROPER HARDWARE DESIGNED TO RUN THEM. Hard to believe that its even a "thing", but it is. It drives me insane, and I see it every day. When we supply controllers, you get the CORRECT VERSION, most recent software, pre-programmed to your car and Plug & Play, and optionally with custom tune files. We also have the ability to transfer unobtanium tune files in most cases, as well as recover many SCT device issues and PCM pairing problems.

Please, think of the Vipers, not the pennies.

Here's a few pictures of the trash I deal with. Not much comparison compared to our products. Can you tell which components were replaced on our controllers? No? THATS THE POINT. OEM quality, ALWAYS.
 

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Well done, Dan !!

I truly hope that a broad spectrum of Viper owners will "r
ead and heed" your sound advice !!!
One can only hope... but unfortunately this market has more new owners that "know better" than ever before, and it's causing countless issues. Sad result of Facebook where everyone is an expert, and fall of the forums unfortunately.
 

Steve-Indy

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Another important point:

BEFORE you even open your garage door, BE SURE that your insurance coverage is fully in place !!!

This is very important...especially for those who suspend their insurance over the winter months. And, YES...this includes those who plan only a couple of mile drive from a storage facility to home. Sadly, I recall two different Viper owners in two different states in early summer of 2020 who did not take the time to activate their policies. Both of these Gen I's were "totaled"...and in one case, so was a new limited edition car that one of the Vipers hit. All expenses were out of pocket.
 

serafins

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I can second making sure you hook up the cables correctly. Seems so simple but I managed to get them backwards on a battery I was charging (outside of the car luckily.) it actually revived that battery somehow but it was smoking hot by the time I noticed. On another car AAA roadside connected the cables backwards and fried my infotainment system.
 

SecureOpossum

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My car came with an EverStart onboard charger/maintainer installed; will that be safe for the PCM, or do I need to remove it and get something else? I’m also in central NC, so there are only a few months that aren’t conducive to getting the car out and driving it. I’m not sure I’ll really be storing the car in the sense that’s being referenced in this thread. Any help is much appreciated!
 

2004 SRT-10

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We are lucky to have you in the Viper community Dan. Thanks again for getting me up and running with my OEM body control module repair. Since Stellantis does not support repair or share their coding to put the original mileage back in the BCM you are the only option to get this done correctly.
 
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My car came with an EverStart onboard charger/maintainer installed; will that be safe for the PCM, or do I need to remove it and get something else? I’m also in central NC, so there are only a few months that aren’t conducive to getting the car out and driving it. I’m not sure I’ll really be storing the car in the sense that’s being referenced in this thread. Any help is much appreciated!
A maintainer of that type should be perfectly fine. I do however advise replacing them every 10 years, or after any type of electrical surge issue in your home.
 

Go-ran

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A maintainer of that type should be perfectly fine. I do however advise replacing them every 10 years, or after any type of electrical surge issue in your home.
So technically speaking, is it best to plug these maintainers into a surge protector?
 
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Since everyone is not putting these cars away for the season...

NOW IS THE TIME TO BUY A PROPER BATTERY TENDER!

The Noco Genius line is excellent- wall mounted, multi-vehicle float charging options. Hands down the best option out there.
 

Steve M

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Since everyone is not putting these cars away for the season...

NOW IS THE TIME TO BUY A PROPER BATTERY TENDER!

The Noco Genius line is excellent- wall mounted, multi-vehicle float charging options. Hands down the best option out there.
But what if we disregard this advice and buy the GUDCHARG tender from Temu/Amazon for $5? That's good enough, right?
 

GTS Dean

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I just put mine on a 2 Amp trickle charger for 10-24 hours about every 6-8 weeks. Hook up to the positive stud on the PDC, then ground to the stud on the rocker panel ahead of the hood guide. Seems to work fine for me.
 
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I just put mine on a 2 Amp trickle charger for 10-24 hours about every 6-8 weeks. Hook up to the positive stud on the PDC, then ground to the stud on the rocker panel ahead of the hood guide. Seems to work fine for me.

Works... but not recommended. You are still having excessive partial discharge/charge cycles that are not necessary. Buy a float charger, and leave it connected 24/7.
 

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