Tips on changing rear pads?

[silverviper]

So this wasn't the first time I've done it, but it was the most frustrating. I was swapping in new brake pads in the rear today and well, there's got to be a better way. The difficulty came from trying to screw in the piston into the calipers.

I have the Lisle disk brake tool cube, one side fits pretty close but not perfectly. It requires a LOT of torque to turn, and with the small slippage, lack of anything to brace against, and limited space to work in there, well, this wasn't a fun exercise. I got it eventually, but I'm exhausted and a quick brake job took 4+ hours.

Is there a universal or Dodge specific tool that clamps onto the caliper and lets you screw it in more easily? None of the ones I found on the net say they work with Dodge, but even so, I can't quite work out from the tiny pictures how they attach and what benefit you get.

Any advice is appreciated.

 

[Qualitywires.com]

I've just used needle nose pliers and they seem to work well.

 

[Schulmann]

It is the same service procedure as for a Volvo S/V40....
1. Get long pliers with pointed ends
2. Open the pliers put the pointed ends into the two holes on the piston
3. Turn the pistons clockwise while pushing them inside.

It is very simple you will see. (if you have just get the right tool)

 

[Andrew2KRT10]

I don't know.....I got a tool from Chuck Tator that is basically just an allen wrench with two tips at the end that fit into the piston. The caliper is off in my lap and I just press in as I turn and the piston goes in pretty easy. I use a wratchet on the tool for leverage.

Andrew

 

[Achilles99]

Tomcat loaned ChrisGTS and I a tool specifically for the rear brake caliper. I've always used the pliers method, but I must admit... the Viper specific tool makes it REALLY easy.

It looks like a clamp with the "cube" tool at the end. As you screw the piston in, you tighten the clamp. This prevents the "cube" from slipping out of the two holes.

 

[ViperRay]

Just did mine yesterday (fronts and rears). I also use the needle nose pliars. If you open the bleeder valve first, it makes it easier since you don't have to push the fluid up the line. I'm not sure what you mean by "limited space to work in there". I assume you removed the rotor.

 

[Steve 00RT/10]

Is there a universal or Dodge specific tool that clamps onto the caliper and lets you screw it in more easily? None of the ones I found on the net say they work with Dodge, but even so, I can't quite work out from the tiny pictures how they attach and what benefit you get.

The Dodge specified tool is a Miller. Part #MLR-6366 (Brake piston retractor). I bought mine 2 yrs. ago from SPX Service Solutions which I found on the web.

Prior to that, someone on this board had pictures of a unique solution they had come up with. A search would probably locate it. There were pictures. It's a deep well socket ground down to leave the two t*ts you need to get into the piston. I made one of those too, although I didn't do nearly as good a job as the one posted on this site. Sockets are very hard to cut down.

Steve

 

[ViperRay]

I bought one of those Miller tools but the "t*ts" were separated wider than the openings on the piston (perhaps they sent the wrong one). So I went with the needle nose.

 

[Johann]

Anybody have the tool dimensions handy?
Diameter of the t*ts and the distance between them?

 

[Tom F&L GoR]

Made my own.

Size of hole - 0.150" or 4mm
diameter of circle - 0.787" (20mm)

As a check, measuring from outside of tip to outside of tip is 0.940" and inside to inside is 0.635".