Valentine One wiring

vinman · Apr 13, 2002

OK I've checked out some previous posts, someone mentioned a "piggy back" connector for the spade type fuse holder at Radio Shack. No dice.. they don't have them by me. I'd like to hardwire this thing, but before I go tearin stuff apart, I figured I'd ask.. where, specifically, should I wire this to?

behind radio? is there a specific color wire going to the interior fuse panel to look for? any help would be appreciated..

thanks

Vinnie

Andy · Apr 13, 2002

I got the fuse piggy back thing from radio shack, part number 270-1218. I piggybacked off the hvac fan fuse. It is a big one, and should not notice the extra train from the v1. If your local radio shack doesn't have it, they will usually get it for you.

If they don't have it, email me your address and I'll send you one. They came a few to a pack.

vinman · Apr 13, 2002

many thanks, Andy. I went to the Radio Shack in the next town and grabbed it. part number was a big help. I can hardly think of a better way to spend a dollar twenty-nine!

Ron · Apr 13, 2002

This should more than answer your question. I had written this up for our local VCA a while back.
Disclaimer: This document outlines how I installed mine. Your car may be different. Use at your own risk.

Parts List:
A) 1 – Valentine One Radar Detector $399.00
B) 1 – Valentine One Remote Display $39.00
C) 1 – Radio Shack ATM Fuse Tapper Kit Part # 270-1218 or 900-7186 $2.49 (I was told 270-1218 was discontinued and replaced by 900-7186. Not all stores carry, might have to be ordered via R/S website)
D) 1 – Radio Shack Fuse Holder Part # 270-1217 $1.89
E) 1 – Radio Shack One Amp Glass Fuse Part # 270-1005 $1.39
F) 1 – Radio Shack Ring Terminal Connector Part # 64-3118 $1.49
G) 1 – 3/4” x 2” strip of sheet metal (can even cut out of a can) -
H) 5 – Inch strip of Black Velcro -
I) 1 – Can of flat black paint -
J) 1 – Length of heat shrink tubing -

Tools:
Soldering Gun
Crimping Pliers
Electrical Tape
Philips Screwdriver
Shorty Philips Screwdriver
Volt / Ohm Meter (Helpful, but not required)

1. To help visualize the installation process, it’s best to first remove the lower knee pad underneath steering column. There are 6 Philips screws including the one facing the door (which will require the short screw driver). In addition, you must “pull off” the pedal adjustment knob.
2. Your first assembly step is to set up the V1 power supply. It will be installed with Velcro on the driver’s side wall of the under dash area directly west of the fuse panel. (north being the front of the car and west representing the driver side). Consider this as you decide on your wire lengths. No need having excessive length, but any extra can be rolled, wire-tied and left under the dash.
3. You set up the power supply by first crimping one side of the fuse holder (D) wire to the fuse tap connector (C) (see Fuse Tap Diagram, page 4). The other side of the fuse holder can be soldered and sealed with electrical tape or heat shrink tubing to the red (+) lead of the Valentine One (V1) power supply (Photo F). The black lead of the V1 power supply should be crimped to a Ring Terminal Connector (F).
4. Insert the fuse block tap onto fuse #6. This is a switched power location. Use the spade closest to fuse #10 as this is the fused side, (see Fuse Tap Diagram, page 4). Then connect the fuse tap connector to the tap itself. Next, connect the ring terminal ground to the screw to the left of fuse #1 just outside the fuse box case. (Photo A)
5. Connect the supplied short V1 modular cord (looks like a phone cord) to the remote, fish it behind the top of the steering column down to the V1 power supply and connect to the “Accessories” socket. Clean the top of the steering column housing with a dab of alcohol and the place a joined piece of Velcro on the bottom of the remote display, peel the adhesive backing and apply between the tach and speedo. (Photo B)
6. Connect the other longer modular cord to the V1 power supply socket labeled “Main Unit” and fish the up around the dash panel, up the “A” pillar and across the top to the windshield over to the rear view mirror. Depending on how your windshield was installed, you might need a bit of black electrical tape to hold the wire in place. You will need to make final adjustments after the V1 is mounted so do not tape extensively until mounting is complete. (Photo C). You can then attach the V1 Power Supply to the driver’s side wall under dash with Velcro.
7. Make sure the mirror is properly positioned for viewing, then position the V1 on the right side of your rear view mirror so that it is balanced and wedged against the windshield with its front top. Mark the V1 with a pencil so you know where to place the Velcro strip. Clean the top of the mirror with alcohol, place the Velcro strip on the bottom of the V1, peel the adhesive backing and mount, being careful position the V1 level and facing forward. (Photo D)
8. Noticing the angle of the back of the rear view mirror and the bottom on the V1, bend your piece of sheet metal according. Once you have the correct compound angle, clean the metal with alcohol and paint black. After it dries, place Velcro on top and back sides so that the V1 is supported in front. (Photo E)
9. You can now install the one amp fuse in the fuse holder and turn the ignition on so you can test the installation. Assuming all is well, you can now reposition the wires to hide exposed slack and replace the knee pad. The V1 can be removed (carefully) for use with its suction mount and cig-liter adaptor in other vehicles or just removed for servicing security. The Velcro attached to the V1 unit will not hinder its use in standard V1 mounts.
10. I have found the install to be reliable, stable and secure. It can be easily and completely removed at any time leaving nothing to indicate that it was ever installed.

Photo A