Valentine One wiring

vinman

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OK I've checked out some previous posts, someone mentioned a "piggy back" connector for the spade type fuse holder at Radio Shack. No dice.. they don't have them by me. I'd like to hardwire this thing, but before I go tearin stuff apart, I figured I'd ask.. where, specifically, should I wire this to?

behind radio? is there a specific color wire going to the interior fuse panel to look for? any help would be appreciated..

thanks

Vinnie
 

Andy

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I got the fuse piggy back thing from radio shack, part number 270-1218. I piggybacked off the hvac fan fuse. It is a big one, and should not notice the extra train from the v1. If your local radio shack doesn't have it, they will usually get it for you.

If they don't have it, email me your address and I'll send you one. They came a few to a pack.
 
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vinman

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many thanks, Andy. I went to the Radio Shack in the next town and grabbed it. part number was a big help. I can hardly think of a better way to spend a dollar twenty-nine!
 

Ron

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<FONT face="Comic Sans MS">This should more than answer your question. I had written this up for our local VCA a while back.
<u>Disclaimer: This document outlines how I installed mine. Your car may be different. Use at your own risk.</u>

Parts List:
A) 1 – Valentine One Radar Detector $399.00
B) 1 – Valentine One Remote Display $39.00
C) 1 – Radio Shack ATM Fuse Tapper Kit Part # 270-1218 or 900-7186 $2.49 (I was told 270-1218 was discontinued and replaced by 900-7186. Not all stores carry, might have to be ordered via R/S website)
D) 1 – Radio Shack Fuse Holder Part # 270-1217 $1.89
E) 1 – Radio Shack One Amp Glass Fuse Part # 270-1005 $1.39
F) 1 – Radio Shack Ring Terminal Connector Part # 64-3118 $1.49
G) 1 – 3/4” x 2” strip of sheet metal (can even cut out of a can) -
H) 5 – Inch strip of Black Velcro -
I) 1 – Can of flat black paint -
J) 1 – Length of heat shrink tubing -

Tools:
Soldering Gun
Crimping Pliers
Electrical Tape
Philips Screwdriver
Shorty Philips Screwdriver
Volt / Ohm Meter (Helpful, but not required)

1. To help visualize the installation process, it’s best to first remove the lower knee pad underneath steering column. There are 6 Philips screws including the one facing the door (which will require the short screw driver). In addition, you must “pull off” the pedal adjustment knob.
2. Your first assembly step is to set up the V1 power supply. It will be installed with Velcro on the driver’s side wall of the under dash area directly west of the fuse panel. (north being the front of the car and west representing the driver side). Consider this as you decide on your wire lengths. No need having excessive length, but any extra can be rolled, wire-tied and left under the dash.
3. You set up the power supply by first crimping one side of the fuse holder (D) wire to the fuse tap connector (C) (see Fuse Tap Diagram, page 4). The other side of the fuse holder can be soldered and sealed with electrical tape or heat shrink tubing to the red (+) lead of the Valentine One (V1) power supply (Photo F). The black lead of the V1 power supply should be crimped to a Ring Terminal Connector (F).
4. Insert the fuse block tap onto fuse #6. This is a switched power location. Use the spade closest to fuse #10 as this is the fused side, (see Fuse Tap Diagram, page 4). Then connect the fuse tap connector to the tap itself. Next, connect the ring terminal ground to the screw to the left of fuse #1 just outside the fuse box case. (Photo A)
5. Connect the supplied short V1 modular cord (looks like a phone cord) to the remote, fish it behind the top of the steering column down to the V1 power supply and connect to the “Accessories” socket. Clean the top of the steering column housing with a dab of alcohol and the place a joined piece of Velcro on the bottom of the remote display, peel the adhesive backing and apply between the tach and speedo. (Photo B)
6. Connect the other longer modular cord to the V1 power supply socket labeled “Main Unit” and fish the up around the dash panel, up the “A” pillar and across the top to the windshield over to the rear view mirror. Depending on how your windshield was installed, you might need a bit of black electrical tape to hold the wire in place. You will need to make final adjustments after the V1 is mounted so do not tape extensively until mounting is complete. (Photo C). You can then attach the V1 Power Supply to the driver’s side wall under dash with Velcro.
7. Make sure the mirror is properly positioned for viewing, then position the V1 on the right side of your rear view mirror so that it is balanced and wedged against the windshield with its front top. Mark the V1 with a pencil so you know where to place the Velcro strip. Clean the top of the mirror with alcohol, place the Velcro strip on the bottom of the V1, peel the adhesive backing and mount, being careful position the V1 level and facing forward. (Photo D)
8. Noticing the angle of the back of the rear view mirror and the bottom on the V1, bend your piece of sheet metal according. Once you have the correct compound angle, clean the metal with alcohol and paint black. After it dries, place Velcro on top and back sides so that the V1 is supported in front. (Photo E)
9. You can now install the one amp fuse in the fuse holder and turn the ignition on so you can test the installation. Assuming all is well, you can now reposition the wires to hide exposed slack and replace the knee pad. The V1 can be removed (carefully) for use with its suction mount and cig-liter adaptor in other vehicles or just removed for servicing security. The Velcro attached to the V1 unit will not hinder its use in standard V1 mounts.
10. I have found the install to be reliable, stable and secure. It can be easily and completely removed at any time leaving nothing to indicate that it was ever installed.

Photo A
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Photo B
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Photo C
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Photo D
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Photo E
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Photo F
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Fuse Tap
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Steve-Indy

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NICE POST, Ron !! Now, ALL can see why we asked Ron to be our Region's Tech. Dir./Editor. All of our members received a copy of this wiring solution in the monthly newsletter. THANKS again, Ron. Your insightful questions and well thought out solutions (with illustrations !!!) are appreciated by all.

Steve Fess Sec. VCA Ind/Ky Region, Inc.
 

Dixter

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After seeing how a few of you guys were wiring the radar detector
I decided to do it myself last night...
Tools required... one phillips screw driver, 3 miller lites:
This is on a GTS... I pluged the long telephone wire into the
detector and positioned the dectector onto the wind shield were
I wanted it with the suction cups. Just below the mirror.
Now with my fingers as tools I began placing the wire between the
roof pad and the wind shield brace,going from the mirror towards
the driver door. at the top I crossed over into the rubber seal and then ran the wire behind the seal working down towards the area were the fuse cover is. I took one screw off at the corner where the lower dash cover met with the upper cover. This way I could thread the wire down into the area where the fuses are located. This is with the fuse cover removed. I found a wire
( red ) that had power on it ( not switched on/off with key ) and cliped the spade adaptor onto it. Its an easy wire to get to. Take a small mirror and get down into the footwell with a good light. From behind the lower dash panel you can see where the fuse box is connected by a cable harness with about 25 wires. The first wire in the connector is red... that is the wire I attached the spade adaptor to. First let me give you a little advise about the spade adaptor. before you install the adaptor, plug the spade into it to make sure the spade fits tight enough to hold the spade but not so tight as you can't get the spade into it. Also inspect the area of the adaptor were it will cut into the wire and you understand that the wire goes into the slits. Now that you have this all understood,just place the adaptor on the wire and close the adaptor to plug in the spade. Before I closed the adaptor I made sure the wire was placed correctly and the spade was now working with the detector. There is another wire that you will have to hook up. Thats the black ground wire. Mine had a small split spade on the end of the wire. If you look at the fuse box straight on, then at the bottom left you should see two black screws... I loosened one of the screws ( far left one ) and put the ground wire there. Turned on the radar dectector to make sure all was working and then stuffed all the extra wire into the fuse holder and replaced the fuse cover. Works great... no cutting or messing up anything in the viper.

On a side note. There were two places on the small block where
you plug in the telephone wire. On mine only one of the connectors worked with the radar detector. So make sure you try both if your detector does not turn on. I think the other hole
is for the remote display ???? That I don't have.

Hope this helps....
 

Dixter

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Nice post Ron.... Looks like we were both posting at the same time.

I like the pictured version much better
smile.gif


For information purposes only... If your detectors ever get stollen
from your car... make sure you tell the insurance agent that
" no the detector was NOT plugged in at the time of theft "

Insurance will cover the detector " if " it is not plugged in...
 

Ron

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<FONT face="Comic Sans MS">Interesting info Dixter. Any idea what the insurance company's logic is on that? They always seem to have something up their sleeve....</FONT f>
 

Dixter

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My insurance agent told me that if you have accessories pluged into
the car... radar detectors, aftermarket sterio equipment ect..ect..

That these accessories now become part of the car but they are not
standard equipment and you may need to get a special policy to
cover them....

But, If they aren't pluged in then they are not part of the car.
Like if the radar detector was laying in the seat and they broke
the window to get it out. Thats covered...

Some of you may have different experiences with your insurance folks.
 
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