BlackACR
Enthusiast
I would like to get one more remote for my 96 GTS. Do you have to use the Dodge remotes. Or, can you use some kind of after market remotes for arming the alarm and doors??
Viper Alarm Remotes???
- Thread starter BlackACR
- Start date
Ron
Enthusiast
Dodge only as far as I know. They are a rolling code transmitter and has to be programmed to the car itself before it will work. Max the GENII EEM will accept is 4 FOBs simultaniously. If you care to, you can do it yourself via the following How To:
1. Ensure the alarm system is not armed.
2. (1996 ~ 1998 GEN II) Ground pin C13 which is the loose green wire taped to harness of EEM connector. The EEM (electronic entry module) is under dash mounted on the left side of trans tunnel, directly above accelerator. Easy access if you remove knee bolster and rubber bungee cord that holds EEM to tunnel.
2A. (1999 ~ 2000) As #2, but instead of C13 you're grounding Terminal 1 of the DLC, (Data Link Connector or OBD2 connector located)
2B. (ALL GEN I) Ground green "Program" Wire located next to SAM and RKE modules. Is a green wire with a bullet connector on end. Is also located under driver's side instrument panel.
Hint - Make sure you're connecting to a solid body ground by testing it with an ohm meter.
3. Turn ignition to run position while green wire is still grounded!
4. EEM acknowledges entry into programming mode by flashing the dash top red LED. If it doesn't flash, you either:
- Have the wrong wire
- Aren't solidly grounded
- You came off ground after the ignition switch was placed in the run position. Start over.
5. (All GEN II) Press BOTH buttons on the transmitter simultaneously and continuously for 10 seconds. You will hear a triple horn chirp when the FOB is accepted by the EEM. Repeat with each FOB, making sure each is programmed within 30 seconds as the EEM will exit the programming mode if it doesn’t receive a signal within that time. If that happens, you’ll have to start over from the beginning.
5B. (All GEN I) Press and release the arm or disarm button on either FOB, then same for the next.
Hint - Make sure your transmitter is working, i.e fresh CR2032 battery $1.19 @ Zbattery.com and good clean battery contacts. Many times your problem is an electrically weak connection within the FOB itself.
6. You MUST program all FOBS during the same programming process. You can program up to 4 on a GEN II and I think only 2 on a GEN I.
Once all FOB’s have been programmed, turn the ignition off and remove green wire from ground, then test the arm and disarm functions.
I've programmed 4 FOBS for my car and found it quite easy once you find the green wire.
1. Ensure the alarm system is not armed.
2. (1996 ~ 1998 GEN II) Ground pin C13 which is the loose green wire taped to harness of EEM connector. The EEM (electronic entry module) is under dash mounted on the left side of trans tunnel, directly above accelerator. Easy access if you remove knee bolster and rubber bungee cord that holds EEM to tunnel.
2A. (1999 ~ 2000) As #2, but instead of C13 you're grounding Terminal 1 of the DLC, (Data Link Connector or OBD2 connector located)
2B. (ALL GEN I) Ground green "Program" Wire located next to SAM and RKE modules. Is a green wire with a bullet connector on end. Is also located under driver's side instrument panel.
Hint - Make sure you're connecting to a solid body ground by testing it with an ohm meter.
3. Turn ignition to run position while green wire is still grounded!
4. EEM acknowledges entry into programming mode by flashing the dash top red LED. If it doesn't flash, you either:
- Have the wrong wire
- Aren't solidly grounded
- You came off ground after the ignition switch was placed in the run position. Start over.
5. (All GEN II) Press BOTH buttons on the transmitter simultaneously and continuously for 10 seconds. You will hear a triple horn chirp when the FOB is accepted by the EEM. Repeat with each FOB, making sure each is programmed within 30 seconds as the EEM will exit the programming mode if it doesn’t receive a signal within that time. If that happens, you’ll have to start over from the beginning.
5B. (All GEN I) Press and release the arm or disarm button on either FOB, then same for the next.
Hint - Make sure your transmitter is working, i.e fresh CR2032 battery $1.19 @ Zbattery.com and good clean battery contacts. Many times your problem is an electrically weak connection within the FOB itself.
6. You MUST program all FOBS during the same programming process. You can program up to 4 on a GEN II and I think only 2 on a GEN I.
Once all FOB’s have been programmed, turn the ignition off and remove green wire from ground, then test the arm and disarm functions.
I've programmed 4 FOBS for my car and found it quite easy once you find the green wire.
BlackACR
Enthusiast
Thanks for the quick reply. Will the newer key fobs from a 99 and up work on a 96-97 GTS.
Kurt 97 GTS
Enthusiast
Tony,
My understanding is that yes, the newer style key fob will work just fine with 96-98 Vipers!! Hope this helps.
PS Is your 96 under factory warranty? Can't remember, but may have a suggestion if it is!!
My understanding is that yes, the newer style key fob will work just fine with 96-98 Vipers!! Hope this helps.
PS Is your 96 under factory warranty? Can't remember, but may have a suggestion if it is!!
Anthony - 98 GTS
Enthusiast
Ron -
Great info - thanks!!!
Great info - thanks!!!
BlackACR
Enthusiast
Yes it is under warranty. Does anyone have a key fob lying around they might sell??
Dixter
Enthusiast
I got my second one from ebay and it works fine...
BlackACR
Enthusiast
What did you pay??
Yes.
BlackACR
Enthusiast
Has anyone tried the remotes from the durango or trucks??
