Why does my 01 run ruff at part throttle?

[SMCBUILDERSINC]

Between 1000-1600 rpms, the car hesitates. When the car has not warmed up to 190 its even worse. This only happens at part throttle, if I accelerate it runs perfect. I changed the plugs to rule them out and no luck. The other wierd thing is if it rains or if theres puddles outside sometimes the car will almost bog completly and stall. Im forced to floor it and it begins to clear up.

IM thinking all these things are related. I have never seen a check engine light come on either.

Where do I start??

 

[99 R/T 10]

Change your points and condenser, that'll clear it up Sorry J/K, I wish I could help here(sounds like your sparks are jumping), but maybe some of the tuners will jump in here. Perhaps TB's need adjustment. I know Gerald from Tampa had a problem similar to this and when they got sync'ed, car ran great. Good luck,

 

[SMCBUILDERSINC]

Why would the operating temperatures effect the driving habits of the car if it was tb related? The problem is getting worse.

 

[GTSPOWERED]

I would check all the plug wires. sounds like one or more hane c shorting problem.

 

[SMCBUILDERSINC]

I looked at the wires which are in perfect visual shape. They are the 10mm aftermarket red wires.

 

[HP]

Did you run a code check? That would be a good starting point.

 

[SMCBUILDERSINC]

No, I have to do that. Would there be a trouble code even if the check engine light was not illuminated

 

[HP]

No, I have to do that. Would there be a trouble code even if the check engine light was not illuminated

YES

 

[ruckdr]

You said you replaced the plugs, and have run the car, and the problem is still there. Pull the plugs and look for dark (rich running, not firing completely)plugs. Replace the wires. I did this and chased one cylinder for a couple weeks, putting a new plug in several times into the hole that was bad, in order to get a plug reading with each change. PLUG WIRES. If this does not completely cure the problem, pull the injectors and take them to Dr. Injector, or a reputable injector shop in your area for cleaning. I had 2 injectors that had poor pattern, and low flow.
Problem solved.

 

[Gavin]

Can you tell me if you have [******] 67mm throttle bodies or 70mm?
Dump the after market wires and replace with new stock set.
Does the car backfire if you let it sit and idle for 2-3 minutes once it is at operating temp?

70mm Tb's can cause the car to bog when cold.
I had problems on my Venom 500 with [******] supplied aftermarket wires - replaced them and have not had a problem since.

Lastly - it could be that the Throttle Bodies are out of sinc - do a search this site to find the proceedures to fix.
Gavin

 

[SMCBUILDERSINC]

The car ran almost perfect the first day the new plugs were installed. Then the surging and missing came back around 1200-1500 RPMs. If it were wires I think it would be constant and the miss would not clear up under 1/3 to full throttle.

 

[SMCBUILDERSINC]

So if theres plugs that are black or rich running then its the wires?

 

[HP]

If the spark plug electrodes are black - something is wrong. With the dual
firing - my plugs will look fine(light brown/gray), even when I've obviously got a miss-fire. I've found that, inspecting under the hood at night, is a
good way to pick up any miss-fire or arcing from the wires. Also double check
the plugs, to make sure they are screwed in tight, I've had one back out before,- they fit loose and I guess my spark plug wrench- swivel joint- got in
a bind because of the angle. Anyway, my car ran ragged before the plug finally blew out. Also pull the plugs to see if you might have 'bumped' the
ground strap and closed the gap, as you were installing one.

 

[Dixter]

Had the same problem just the other day, Drove me nuts. Just like you I replaced
the plugs first. Then bad images started forming in my mind as to what it could be.... bad head gaskete or who knows what !

Changed out the wires and it now runs perfect

 

[SMCBUILDERSINC]

I thought aching wires would cause a constant mis at all rpms?

 

[ruckdr]

Plug wires, as you know, get VERY hot. They may not be arching, but the actual conductor (carbon/wire) may be broken, or at least partially broken. Mine seemed to run OK at open throttle, but in reality it wasn't.
Change out the wires.
Another test, is to one by one pull the wire off each injector at idle, one at a time. If the idle does not change (RPM drop will be noticable), bad/problem cylinder. This will also set a error code/check engine wish will need to be cleared.
Later,