I pulled off my stock cats and deleted them now the car is nice and cool, but it has gotten the car too loud for my liking and i'm pulling them off now and installing high flow cats. I am worried about some of the heat coming back and have been thinking about wrapping that section of the exhaust, but i've never used wrap before. Anybody recommend a certain type/brand? Any tips on getting it on there, having it stay on there, and not retaining a lot of moisture? I don't plan on driving the car in rain ever...but sometimes you can't help it by getting caught in it so I want to make sure I do a good job on the wrap.
wrapping the exhaust with thermal wrap
- Thread starter darkostoj
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eucharistos
Enthusiast
what is the rest of your exhaust (from cat back) is it stock?
some have said cat delete and stock rear muffler is a good combo and keeps the heat and sound out, but in detroit, i would think the heat is not too bad a problem
some have said cat delete and stock rear muffler is a good combo and keeps the heat and sound out, but in detroit, i would think the heat is not too bad a problem
PhoenixGTS
Enthusiast
You are looking for a puffy spun ceramic blanket material called Cer-Wool. It is used to insulate kilns and equipment in the steel making industry. Sean Roe used to sell kits of it to wrap the exhaust inside the sills. I found that yes it does help with heat, but the flip side is it helps retain the heat for longer when you stop so if you are doing errands and stopping at a store then going to another, the exhaust does not cool down in bewteen and you end up hotter after awhile. But for one drive-never stop-come home it helped. I wrapped my exhaust in it and used stainless safety wire installed with spinning pliers every foot or so to hold it in place. Sorry I don't have a picture, but I noticed very similar material in the post-crash pictures of a Gen IV on their board where the side sills were ripped off in the crash so it looks like the factory is using it now.
i got a corsa 3" catbackwhat is the rest of your exhaust (from cat back) is it stock?
some have said cat delete and stock rear muffler is a good combo and keeps the heat and sound out, but in detroit, i would think the heat is not too bad a problem
eucharistos
Enthusiast
you are wasting the corsa without the cats, corsa tunes the sound to factory cats though many like the sound with hiflows.
even if i had corsa (do have corsa envy though) i would never reinstall factory cats -
hiflows w/ ceramic substrate is quieter, but i prefer metal substrate cats
even if i had corsa (do have corsa envy though) i would never reinstall factory cats -
hiflows w/ ceramic substrate is quieter, but i prefer metal substrate cats
DEI makes some good stuff you can get at Pep Boys or Advance Auto. I bought the 2" 50 ft. roll for each side. It cooled off the RT enough that you could put your hand directly on the wrapped pipe when it was at operating temp. It as NA and catless.
The same treatment on my blown, catless GTS isn't quite as effective, but the cooler temp is noticeable.
You can use stainless zip ties or dryer hose clamps. DEI makes the zip ties and a spray that's supposed to hold everything together.
The same treatment on my blown, catless GTS isn't quite as effective, but the cooler temp is noticeable.
You can use stainless zip ties or dryer hose clamps. DEI makes the zip ties and a spray that's supposed to hold everything together.
It will have little to no efffect on the heat, but it will help rot out the cats from holding moisture agianst them after you wash the car or get it wet. My Roe cats had to be spot welded and repaired in less than 2 years, thanks to the Roe insulation blanket they were wrapped in. Just let them breathe, you need more air flow not less.
dave6666
Enthusiast
HF Cats and no heat 
+1 on the wrap being a quick ticket to destroying the metal due to accelerated corrosion. Moisture + heat = rust.
+1 on the wrap being a quick ticket to destroying the metal due to accelerated corrosion. Moisture + heat = rust.
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white out
Enthusiast
It's more expensive than the wrap, but I have had very good luck with thermal coating (on other cars). It protects the pipe too.
Nick
Nick
EllowViper
Enthusiast
A Cat is designed to work(the chemical process) at a certain temperature.
If you thermal wrap it than it will run hotter wich might cause her to prematurely deteriorate.
CAUSES OF CATALYTIC CONVERTER PLUGGING
Prolonged overheating or short term severe overheating are the leading causes of catalytic converter plugging. The underlying cause here is often fouled or misfiring spark plugs, or a burned exhaust valve that leaks compression and allows unburned fuel to pass through the combustion chamber into the exhaust.
The average light off temperature at which the catalytic converter begins to function ranges from 400 to 600 degrees F. The normal operating temperature can range up to 1,200 to 1,600 degrees F. But as the amount of pollutants in the exhaust go up, so does the converter's operating temperature. If the temperature gets up around 2,000 degrees F or higher, several things happen. The aluminum oxide honeycomb begins to degrade and weaken. The platinum and palladium coating on the honeycomb also starts to melt and sink into the ceramic substrate reducing its effect on the exhaust. This accelerates the aging process and causes the converter to lose efficiency.
If the overheating condition persists for a long period of time, or if the temperature soars high enough, the honeycomb itself may breakdown and melt forming a partial or complete obstruction and causing a sharp rise in backpressure. A complete blockage will cause the engine to stall shortly after starting, and will not allow exhaust to exit the engine.
Some degree of restriction inside the converter honeycomb can also be caused by accumulated deposits: phosphorus from oil burning and/or carbon from oil burning, a rich fuel mixture or frequent short trip driving where the converter rarely reaches light-off temperature). Physical damage to the honeycomb as a result of road hazards or severe jolts may cause the relatively brittle ceramic honeycomb to break or crumble inside the converter shell. A rattling noise when you shake or thump the converter would tell you there's loose debris inside. A undamaged monolith converter should make no noise.
source:Catalytic Converter
If you thermal wrap it than it will run hotter wich might cause her to prematurely deteriorate.
CAUSES OF CATALYTIC CONVERTER PLUGGING
Prolonged overheating or short term severe overheating are the leading causes of catalytic converter plugging. The underlying cause here is often fouled or misfiring spark plugs, or a burned exhaust valve that leaks compression and allows unburned fuel to pass through the combustion chamber into the exhaust.
The average light off temperature at which the catalytic converter begins to function ranges from 400 to 600 degrees F. The normal operating temperature can range up to 1,200 to 1,600 degrees F. But as the amount of pollutants in the exhaust go up, so does the converter's operating temperature. If the temperature gets up around 2,000 degrees F or higher, several things happen. The aluminum oxide honeycomb begins to degrade and weaken. The platinum and palladium coating on the honeycomb also starts to melt and sink into the ceramic substrate reducing its effect on the exhaust. This accelerates the aging process and causes the converter to lose efficiency.
If the overheating condition persists for a long period of time, or if the temperature soars high enough, the honeycomb itself may breakdown and melt forming a partial or complete obstruction and causing a sharp rise in backpressure. A complete blockage will cause the engine to stall shortly after starting, and will not allow exhaust to exit the engine.
Some degree of restriction inside the converter honeycomb can also be caused by accumulated deposits: phosphorus from oil burning and/or carbon from oil burning, a rich fuel mixture or frequent short trip driving where the converter rarely reaches light-off temperature). Physical damage to the honeycomb as a result of road hazards or severe jolts may cause the relatively brittle ceramic honeycomb to break or crumble inside the converter shell. A rattling noise when you shake or thump the converter would tell you there's loose debris inside. A undamaged monolith converter should make no noise.
source:Catalytic Converter
99VPRGTS
Enthusiast
I have the cat delete and the wrap kit from roe with no corrosion issues at all. This is because the cats are off the car. If you put the cats back on and wrap them, you will ruin them just like others have said.
If you want my suggestion, I would leave the cats off, wrap the side sill exhaust area in the roe wrap, and put the stock cat back exhaust back on the car. I would find a way to leave the Corsa tips though because we all know how awful the stock exhaust tips look LOL. Your car will be quieter, you will not lose too much performance (maybe 10HP at the most), and your side sills/door jams will still remain cool.
ViperGeorge
Enthusiast
HF Cats and no heat
+1 on the wrap being a quick ticket to destroying the metal due to accelerated corrosion. Moisture + heat = rust.
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Dave, this is off point, but what kind of block is your car sitting on in the pic you posted in this thread? I kind of like that idea, looks safer and more stable than jack stands.
dave6666
Enthusiast
I made them out of 2x4's and 1/2" plywood. I use Race Ramps XT at the front of the car and then if I want the back end up too I use a pair of floor jacks to raise it up and then put stands in the back. But those long ramps can be obnoxious when working under the car so I made the wheel stands. Once the car is up in the air I use a floor jack in the front to remove the ramps and set in the wheel stands.
I can take some better pics if you want but here's some CAD shots.
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eucharistos
Enthusiast
i've seen this pic, that stirs ice cold sill envy btw, many times and always thought they were your race ramps backwards
now i see the wood grain, good eye gbatejan
so the weight gets to the floor via the plywood sides?
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Ditto, we do not condone the use of the insulation, it fills with moisture and rots anything it can.
Tell that to Roe, they have been selling that crap for years to unwitting customers.
dave6666
Enthusiast
That would be how they work, for the 3.5 inches that's not screwed-n-glued to 2x4's on the inside. They are quite strong.
I dont believe they sell it anymore, or at least stopped for some time...?
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