Lots of truth bombs being dropped here. I'm a hard-headed DIY'er, but I generally enjoy the the hunt, the takedown and the messy bits. It adds to the personal satisfaction of a job well done. OTOH, I also deeply appreciate those folks who make a business of keeping the community supplied with...
It's a little under the thickness of an average business card. Once you start the car, it works its way into the oil pan. It's too large to get sucked into the pump, and too soft to hurt anything.
At least is isn't the burned up and abandoned abomination that someone else around these parts decided needed the Phoenix treatment. There are lots of track-worthy cars out there at pretty modest entry costs. I suggest you cast your net a little further out.
Dragsters call it tire shake. There can be a number of contributing factors, but until you get it figured out, start lowering air pressures and trying NOT to keep wheel-hopping it. Something is going to break and it won't be pretty.
A couple of eyeball measurements with a carpenter's square:
Rear
Center hub to centerline of toe link: 5.75"/145mm. Thread pitch: 1.5mm.
Front
Hub CL to outer ball jt. 6"/150mm. Thread pitch also 1.5mm
Radius of std 25.6" OD tire: 25.6/2=12.8" or 325mm.
A little bit of simple trig will get you...
Mine has never gotten loose over 29 years of road and track duty being firmly hand-tight. The hose *DID* char and catch fire at the track once from radiant heat at #1 exhaust manifold port. In '98, they modified the exhaust shield with a tab that blocked that exposure. I just made my own shields...
^^That's my point.^^ If you use a bunch of Red on the bolt, you'll probably have to use either a propane, or O-A torch and heat the crank snout for it to break loose. The bolt is in there several inches, so you will cook your front seal, possibly melt the front cover, and likely ruin the heat...
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