A couple of eyeball measurements with a carpenter's square:
Rear
Center hub to centerline of toe link: 5.75"/145mm. Thread pitch: 1.5mm.
Front
Hub CL to outer ball jt. 6"/150mm. Thread pitch also 1.5mm
Radius of std 25.6" OD tire: 25.6/2=12.8" or 325mm.
A little bit of simple trig will get you...
Mine has never gotten loose over 29 years of road and track duty being firmly hand-tight. The hose *DID* char and catch fire at the track once from radiant heat at #1 exhaust manifold port. In '98, they modified the exhaust shield with a tab that blocked that exposure. I just made my own shields...
^^That's my point.^^ If you use a bunch of Red on the bolt, you'll probably have to use either a propane, or O-A torch and heat the crank snout for it to break loose. The bolt is in there several inches, so you will cook your front seal, possibly melt the front cover, and likely ruin the heat...
The ARP bolt was originally spec'd for the B/RB big block Mopars that all have a Woodruff key to keep the damper from spinning. They do not depend on friction fit. I originally used the 160 lb-ft spec - it unscrewed itself and the damper fell off in my driveway - thankfully not destroying the...
Yes there is a no-start menu tree on the DRB with a checksum value test between the crank and cam position signals. I swapped cam sensors and still had no-fire. That is how I began to figure out I had a broken wire in the cam sensor branch of my front engine harness.
That's not dirty. This was mine after about 8-10 years of road and track use. I held the radiator flat about 1-2" off the floor and just dropped it repeatedly about 20 times to jar the sand, rubber and bug carcasses loose. Afterward, I used compressed air, then medium intensity water spray. The...
Squeeze hard o n the upper radiator hose with a glove or shop rag for insulation. That's some NASTY looking whatever in your system.
edit: and that brake fluid! God man, flush that garbage out too - TWICE!
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