Sound System in the Viper.

OK,
so i'm thinkin about doing SOMETHING to my sound system in my RT/10 because it ***** and i mean its horrible, to have a car this expensive and not have a decent sounding system so i have to make the constant excuse that the exhaust is music to my ears instead lol

So what to do? I have a dual nitrous bottle bracket with two 10 lb bottles in the trunk, right in the center and there not goin anwhere lol
Get a better headunit? (WHAt kind)
Get new door speakers? (What kind)
Put a 8" sub in the center console? (What kind)
Do i need another amp? (where should i mount it and what kind?)
What is all your Vipers?
If you all have any suggestions i'd appreciate them. Thanks again everyone
James

I replaced all the factory speakers (well except the 2 tweeters in the doors) with Sony Xplod speakers. My headunit is an indash Alpine 3 disc changer with the stock amps. I'm not going to win any sound competitions but it does sound a lot better than stock

I Just replaced the speakers only in my GTS last weekend and It made a HUGE difference in sound. I cant believe Dodge would put an Alpine stereo and an Amp with the crappy little speakers they put in. I Also put in the Sony 4 way explodes in the doors and they sound great. (2 way alpines in back for more bass) I put factory grills back in cause I didnt like the sony grills. Plus you can see the red tweeter through the grill so you know its not stock. I would recommend changing just the speakers first and see if your happy with that before you spend money on a head unit. Speakers are very easy to get to and replace yourself.

Why do you need two nitrous bottles?

I think Danno is 100% correct. All I did was change out my speakers (the headunit had already been replaced w/a new alpine unit when I bought the car) and i'm perfectly happy with my system using the stock amps.

My system rocks with the stock head unit and some focal speakers.

Why do you need two nitrous bottles?

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I dont really NEED two nitrous bottle but i love the way its set up and two means less trips to fill them. PLUS i shoot it quite often so the more nitrous, The better

My system sounds pretty good, but I hate the fact that there is hardly ANY bass response whatsoever.... I just got my car a few weeks ago and luckily, the guy did an o.k. job with the equipment.

There's a Poineer DVD head unit in there now. My buddy liked the display and started browsing ebay for one. We saw some cheaper models, go for around 400-500 bucks, which is actuallt pretty cheep. The one I have in there now, goes for about $1300. I wish it was touch screen though and there's a few things I don't like about it, but I'm just being picky.


The door speakers are POLK full range speakers, that produce some pretty good mid and high frequencies. Stock tweeters are there, but were not hooked up when I got the car. I have no idea why, maybe they are blown. I need to hook them up soon when I get a chance. I wonder if there are any things I need to know about before removing the door panel?

In the trunk, there was a small 150 watt Rockford Fosgate Punch amp, but it was only a 2 channel and I wasn't able to seperate the crossover for any bass to my cinter console speakers. I pulled it out and replaced it with my 600 watt Jensen 4 channel/bridgable amp with tons of crossover options.

The speakers in the cinter console were Sony X-Plod, but they reminded me too much of boat speakers in that location. Although they looked nice, I wanted to experiment with some other speakers I had laying around the house.


I swapped the X-plode 3 ways out with some actual "woofers" to try and gain a little bass. Since the baffles are just too friggin tiny, it's difficult to obtain any bass response, with the small amount of air space. I LOVE the way it looks now, especially at night, when the white woofers reflect an ambient blue glow, from the head unit screen.


Since I'm still not getting any bass from the actual woofers that are in there now, I decided to try something a little different. I ordered some more speakers on ebay, that are actual woofers as well. They can hold a little more power, so I expect, they will sound a bit better. But my plan is to install these new speakers, with the basket facing outwards. This will give me MORE airspace (because on a typical install, the magnets, basket and cone are robbing the air space inside the baffles). If I invert the speakers, I will gain probably 30% air space, since the magnets will now be on the outside. Of course, I bought some speakers with a nice chrome basked and large chrome magnet, so I think it will be cosmetically appealing, but this is all experimental for now. I'll post pics and make a report, if anyone is interested...
Here are the 6 1/2" woofers I plan on installing inverted, when they arrive. The basket isn't as nice as the Audiobahn, but they were only about $50.00 for the pair and I'm just kinda experimenting for now.



FYI, I bidded on these 6 12" woofers, but lost the auction. However, I did locate some online if anyone is interested, I can try to find the links. These have HUGE magnets, and would probably look bad ass installed with the magnets facing out (thats one thing Audiobahn is known for and why they make the baskets look so cool). Otherwise, the magnets will probably take up the entire baffle air space!



I'm not sure I will ever even hear any bass sitting at a light or driving, since I have no cats and Dynomax, but it will be nice for car shows, to crank it up a little and hear a nice full range of sound. Local audio shops can build "kick panel" type woofer enclosures for an 8" sub and also make sub enclosures for the console as well. I may end up going that route, but for now, I'm just having a little fun and seeing what I can achieve with what I have.

Thanks for the comments so far guys, i see alot of you have the sony Explode speakers. SO i'm going to check them and the focals out.
I want it loud but with some bass also.

I want it loud but with some bass also.

Click to expand...

Only proven way to get good quality bass in an RT is an 8" or 10" sub in the passenger footwell.

I want it loud but with some bass also.

Click to expand...

Only proven way to get good quality bass in an RT is an 8" or 10" sub in the passenger footwell.

Click to expand...

How much foot space does that take up? I still like my passengers to be comfy.

I want it loud but with some bass also.

Click to expand...

Only proven way to get good quality bass in an RT is an 8" or 10" sub in the passenger footwell.

Click to expand...

Thats what I think my end result will be, but I'm still experimenting for now.

Not sure if they fit, but the best separates by far are MB Quarts. They are pricey compared to the Sony's but incredible sound.

Frog, if you are worried about the air space in the enclosure go with an isobaric setup. That's where you install two woofers inside the enclosure and two outside facing each other. Then you wire them out of phase. You will only get the best performance you can out of two woofers because the other two are used as active radiators to help drive the two main drivers. But that will greatly compensate for the limited air space. It sounds a little complicated but not really.

Frog, if you are worried about the air space in the enclosure go with an isobaric setup. That's where you install two woofers inside the enclosure and two outside facing each other. Then you wire them out of phase. You will only get the best performance you can out of two woofers because the other two are used as active radiators to help drive the two main drivers. But that will greatly compensate for the limited air space. It sounds a little complicated but not really.

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I had two 18" fosgates face to face in one of my older cars. They where to big to fit side by side in the trunk, so I ran them face to face in a single 18" hole. It doubled the sound, like you are saying. I also did that with four 15" kickers in the same car before, I had the 18's. It was a way of maximizing the use of speakers, without making more enclosures. I always called it "Footballing" the speakers. In a way, this has the same effect of a dual coil speaker. Dam... imagine if my 18s were dual coil? WOW that would have been crazy! The only thing with doing that in the RT/10, is that the baffle space is sooooo small. I would still be robbing air space with the "normal mounted speaker" magnet and basket. I would almost say 50% of the air space would be robbed. If I delete the inside speaker and mount the outside speaker (fireing towards the console), I will almost double the air space and then possible get some resonance out of the speaker, instead of just kicking around. I always tell my friends, when they are messing with their speaker boxes to experiment with turning the speaker inside out. My experiments in the past have always proved to get louder bass that way. plus, you can cram in 2 more speakers if you want, like you mentioned!!! Thanks for the tip though!

I have NO idea what you two are talking about, But i like the idea of the foot well sub. I know a few people have this done and i was wondering who made theirs? Plus what sub to run in that box?

I want it loud but with some bass also.

Click to expand...

Only proven way to get good quality bass in an RT is an 8" or 10" sub in the passenger footwell.

Click to expand...

That is exactly what I am doing-two 8" subs in the footwell.

Jucd-I pm'd you back.

Quote:
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I want it loud but with some bass also.

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Only proven way to get good quality bass in an RT is an 8" or 10" sub in the passenger footwell.
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How much foot space does that take up? I still like my passengers to be comfy.
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I had that setup in my RT and I have it in my SRT now. You will lose some foot room, just a couple of inches,but the box can be used as a foot rest and if needed can be taken out for more space ..

Nice. Thanks for sharing.

Does anyone have a "template" for a sub box in the footwell? I have an 8" Bazooka tube that I haven't installed yet and if I can "gut" it and install it in a box, that would work.

Santo

I replaced all the factory speakers (well except the 2 tweeters in the doors) with Sony Xplod speakers. My headunit is an indash Alpine 3 disc changer with the stock amps. I'm not going to win any sound competitions but it does sound a lot better than stock

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I've heard Chad's (V10Speed...) system and its good. The only thing it really needs is a sub. The speakers look nice in his car and the head unit is a definite improvement.

With any stereo you need a good sub to really bring out the full range of sound. Doesn't have to be two 18", but anything will improve the overall quality.

Does anyone have a "template" for a sub box in the footwell? I have an 8" Bazooka tube that I haven't installed yet and if I can "gut" it and install it in a box, that would work.

Santo

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Sell the Bazooka on ebay and make some cash. Buy a single JL Audio, Audiobahn or other named brand subwoofer and use that instead of tearing a Bazooka apart. The bazookas are good setups for their design and I would recomend leaving it as it is. A good single (Dual Voice Coil) sub, will be good for your footwell. you can pick up amps for pretty cheep online and on ebay.

FYI: "Dual Voice Coil" is a single subwoofer, with two connectors (one for each voice coil), so it's like having twice the power and bass in one smaller package. You can hook up your "Left" and "Right" side signals to each voicecoil, or you can bridge your amp for even more power. DVC is the way to go on any woofer.

I replaced the The head unit with a Pioneer AVIC-N2 here is the link
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pna/product/detail/0,,2076_3151_192089333,00.html
It has has a Navigation system, as well as the radio & DVD player, the screen flips out & retracts into the head unit when it is turned off. The amplifier is rated at 200 watts (50 per channel), which seems to be plenty of power in the small cabin of an RT/10. There would be room under the drivers seat for an amplifier as long as it was not too thick, it has inputs for Satellite radio and a rear camera input neither of which I bought.

The head unit fit perfectly in the original location and looks like it's factory installed. There is a hide away unit that must be installed flat and in line with the center point of the car, it fit under the passenger seat, I also added the iPod integration kit; it fit on top of the hide away unit with room to spare. The iPod is wired to the center storage area under the speaker, and can be controlled by the head unit.

I purchased the Pioneer which retails for 2G's on-line where they are available from a variety of sites for about $1200.00. All the wires you need are already in place except for the speakers; I used a flat 14 gauge speaker wire that I bought from Radio Shack and fished it through the door factory rubber. That was a chore until I loosened it from both the door and pillar and use some spray lubricant then the wires slid through with out too much work. Instead of cutting the head off the original harness I used quick connects to tap into the power sources, tried to find an adapter (but the ones listed did not work). Even the speed pulse sensor needed by the nav system is already there. I also added a SPDT micro switch to short the parking brake wire to ground so I can play DVD's and change the route setting with out pulling over and setting the parking brake.

Replaced the single 6 1/2" center speaker with an 8" sub-woofer from Kicker, bought it at a local car stereo store for $80.00. It has dual voice coils and I just wired both rear stereo outputs to those. I had to trim the opening to the lip, if you remove the steel ring behind the lip first, it's glued to the back of it the rest cuts easily with a sharp utility blade. I also had to cut out the back of the rear trim piece so the speaker would fit flush (no one will ever see the cut). I am having some vibration induced distortion when the bass is turned up I plan to add some type of damping behind the sub.

I also plan to upgrade the front speakers and have ordered a set of Boston Acoustics PRO60's for the front doors from a seller on e-bay they came to about $345.00 with shipping.

Installation (so far) has taken about 6 hours but a lot of that was figuring out where things went. The center surround just snaps off and the center counsel has to come out there are 4 screws attaching it two up front and two at the rear by the seat backs. I pulled the rear trim piece loose but that was not necessary wires could be fished down through the holes cut from behind the sub. A small cut in the carpet by where the seat mounts to is used to fish the wires to the hide away unit and I bundled all them in a big loop to hide the extra where the carpet meets the counsel.

I have yet taken the time to figured out how to post pics on the site but will do so after I take some.

I also am thinking of doing the footwell subs and would love to see some pics of a 10" sub there.

I did the stereo in my rt/10 and i think it sounds pretty good. i went with alpine stuff since that's what came with the car. i don't have the model numbers memorized but if you want them.. i can get them off the car.. i went with a higher end head unit (9310 i think). that plays mp3's and i got the ipod interface so i just plug in my ipod (in my other cars too).. and i have a couple of thousand songs at all times. it's got the sub woofer control and other bells and whistles. went with the alpine type X speakers in the front.. 6 1/2 inch seperates.. they look awesome and sound awesome.. they were the most expensive one's alpine makes.. but. it's for the viper right...so what the hell. went with a new product they got for '05 in between the seats.. it's a type X "mid bass" speaker.. wow. makes a huge difference in the mid bass.. and for bass. i had a custom box made for the pass. foot well and used a diamond audio 8" sub. Used diamond cause their subs are awesome and don't require much air (space) to push them. Used a alpine 500 watt x 1 amp for the sub and a big 4 channel amp for the fronts and mid bass speakers. The sub makes ALL THE DIFFERENCE. i have lots of bass even on the freeway with the top off. with the top on.. you'd swear there's a couple of 10's somewhere.. let me know if you need more info. Dr. B.

I did the stereo in my rt/10 and i think it sounds pretty good. i went with alpine stuff since that's what came with the car. i don't have the model numbers memorized but if you want them.. i can get them off the car.. i went with a higher end head unit (9310 i think). that plays mp3's and i got the ipod interface so i just plug in my ipod (in my other cars too).. and i have a couple of thousand songs at all times. it's got the sub woofer control and other bells and whistles. went with the alpine type X speakers in the front.. 6 1/2 inch seperates.. they look awesome and sound awesome.. they were the most expensive one's alpine makes.. but. it's for the viper right...so what the hell. went with a new product they got for '05 in between the seats.. it's a type X "mid bass" speaker.. wow. makes a huge difference in the mid bass.. and for bass. i had a custom box made for the pass. foot well and used a diamond audio 8" sub. Used diamond cause their subs are awesome and don't require much air (space) to push them. Used a alpine 500 watt x 1 amp for the sub and a big 4 channel amp for the fronts and mid bass speakers. The sub makes ALL THE DIFFERENCE. i have lots of bass even on the freeway with the top off. with the top on.. you'd swear there's a couple of 10's somewhere.. let me know if you need more info. Dr. B.

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Thats the kind of bass I'm looking for! It would be great to see some pictures of your woofer box and location. I know I can duplicate that type of setup, but it would make it a little easier to get a general idea of where to start. I bet 500 watts pounding through that 8" is AWSOME!

yeah.. the diamond audio 8" is a dual voice coil driver.. so. i wanted a big amp to make sure there wasn't a problem with power.. the alpine type "x"'s are pretty sweet also.. maybe over kill for the viper since it's a noisy car anyways.. mostly i think the sound needs to be loud. not necessarily clean.. I will send some pics to you Frog. I made the box as small as i could.. hopeing to save some passernger leg space.. if i would have made the box a little bigger. im sure the setup would push more air and produce more bass.. i think the way it turned out. it's a good middle.. still have good bass.. still have ok leg room.. besides.. my woman is 5'3" and 96 lbs.. she doesnt require much room! Dr. B.

I am thinking of adding that same head unit, very nice.. SWEET..

I went with a panasonic xm radio unit, kicker subwoofer and 4-channel amp-kept the stock speakers, sounds awsome!

pics in my gallery

I replaced the The head unit with a Pioneer AVIC-N2 here is the link
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pna/product/detail/0,,2076_3151_192089333,00.html
It has has a Navigation system, as well as the radio & DVD player, the screen flips out & retracts into the head unit when it is turned off. The amplifier is rated at 200 watts (50 per channel), which seems to be plenty of power in the small cabin of an RT/10. There would be room under the drivers seat for an amplifier as long as it was not too thick, it has inputs for Satellite radio and a rear camera input neither of which I bought.

The head unit fit perfectly in the original location and looks like it's factory installed. There is a hide away unit that must be installed flat and in line with the center point of the car, it fit under the passenger seat, I also added the iPod integration kit; it fit on top of the hide away unit with room to spare. The iPod is wired to the center storage area under the speaker, and can be controlled by the head unit.

I purchased the Pioneer which retails for 2G's on-line where they are available from a variety of sites for about $1200.00. All the wires you need are already in place except for the speakers; I used a flat 14 gauge speaker wire that I bought from Radio Shack and fished it through the door factory rubber. That was a chore until I loosened it from both the door and pillar and use some spray lubricant then the wires slid through with out too much work. Instead of cutting the head off the original harness I used quick connects to tap into the power sources, tried to find an adapter (but the ones listed did not work). Even the speed pulse sensor needed by the nav system is already there. I also added a SPDT micro switch to short the parking brake wire to ground so I can play DVD's and change the route setting with out pulling over and setting the parking brake.

Replaced the single 6 1/2" center speaker with an 8" sub-woofer from Kicker, bought it at a local car stereo store for $80.00. It has dual voice coils and I just wired both rear stereo outputs to those. I had to trim the opening to the lip, if you remove the steel ring behind the lip first, it's glued to the back of it the rest cuts easily with a sharp utility blade. I also had to cut out the back of the rear trim piece so the speaker would fit flush (no one will ever see the cut). I am having some vibration induced distortion when the bass is turned up I plan to add some type of damping behind the sub.

I also plan to upgrade the front speakers and have ordered a set of Boston Acoustics PRO60's for the front doors from a seller on e-bay they came to about $345.00 with shipping.

Installation (so far) has taken about 6 hours but a lot of that was figuring out where things went. The center surround just snaps off and the center counsel has to come out there are 4 screws attaching it two up front and two at the rear by the seat backs. I pulled the rear trim piece loose but that was not necessary wires could be fished down through the holes cut from behind the sub. A small cut in the carpet by where the seat mounts to is used to fish the wires to the hide away unit and I bundled all them in a big loop to hide the extra where the carpet meets the counsel.

I have yet taken the time to figured out how to post pics on the site but will do so after I take some.

Click to expand...

good info. I think your "vibration induced noise" is due to the fact that the head unit is sending an unconditioned signal to the sub, you need a crossover or filter to clean all but the bass signal to the sub...

Thanks, I think my head uint can send a sub only output to the rear speakers.