Edelbrock Headers?

What is the story with these? Anybody running them? If so how is the hp and torque gain compared to the Belanger and B+B's? Any fitment issues with them?

Lots of chatter. Use search function. I have posted many times about the mid-flanges on the set that came with my car warping and blowing out the gaskets, but lots of people have responded they never had problems. Of course the Edlebrocks are the only headers with CARB certification so if you are on California that is a major plus.

What he said. I've got the Edelbrocks (live in California). Got some good numbers from them. Had one side blow the gasket out. The instructions really stress that you've got to torque all the bolts there equally. I think I screwed up on that side and that's why they blew. I ordered a new set of gaskets, re-did that side, make sure all the bolts had equal torque, and the gasket has been fine ever since.

-Chris

Please allow me to chime in on the Edelbrock Headers here...take what I say as FACT.

These headers' design and function are among THE BEST of any header out there, period. I have seen ALL the other header designs up close and personal and have personally witnessed several Vipers with Bellangers and B+B's dyno with the same level of modifications as my 97' GTS. I have yet to see another Viper dyno more RWHP than mine with the same set-up on the SAME DYNO, on the SAME DAY. My 97' is a very healthy example that made 445rwhp (427rwhp SAE) with only a Borla cat-back. After the edelbrocks + high-flo cats I purchased from Sean Roe Racing the car put down 475rwhp (460rwhp SAE) on a much warmer day* The torque also went up equally all across the powerband and really woke up the car.

This is the ONLY header available in the world for the Viper that's made both Stainless steel AND ceramic coated out of the factory with full CARB approval to boot. And it's proven that the 5-in-1 design are better for high-po F/I applications should you want to take it to the extreme down the road. These only come in the 1 3/4inch size which means they'll flow as much as you'll ever throw at them...and they look gorgeous in the car. (and will stay that way being stainless steel)


*** HERE IS THE ONLY PROBLEM WITH THIS HEADER *** PLEASE, PAY ATTENTION & FOLLOW MY ADVICE, don't make the same mistake i did.....

They give you a set of CHEAP, PAPER FIBER, gaskets in the package with their great headers. And being these are a two piece design that have a center/mid flange that see's a lot of torsional flex/stress and heat they WILL blow out. I don't care how 'evenly' you torque the flange bolts down...don't even dream of using the provided gaskets. I had a set of custom metal/copper ones made by cometic and had to go through thru all the trouble of taking the exhaust/headers apart and re-installing it with the copper ones. Now, 2000+HP wouldn't blow these things apart, lol. I can't imagine WHY they would make such a high quality, excellent header design...then give you the cheapest gaskets on earth to install them with...

If you call cometic gasket Inc. (very reputable & famous company), they'll probably still have my gasket cut/design on file and will just send to you copper ones identical to mine....about $20 bucks each. (as oppose to the 50cent paper/fiber ones u get standard)

I hope this helped, may you enjoy them and learn from my heart aches/experiences...if I had to do it all over again i would....just with the custom gaskets from the get-go. You'll be very impressed by these headers on your snake. ;-))

I have these on my Gen1. There is a fit issue on the drivers side turnout. It makes contact with the frame rail. I've been through a bunch with them, and there doesn't seem to be a resolution. There is a flex portion at that point in the turnout and I have poly mounts, so I'm not too worried about it. If I had rubber, I might be more worried about the effects of the rail contact.

The connection from the headers to the collector tube is not a good design. The bolts are a PITA to tighten because of clearance, but they need to be torqued every so often. If there is a way to lock them down, such that they don't need to be torqued every couple of months, I'd buy them again. If not, I'd get another brand.

Venum S 1 said:

What is the story with these? Anybody running them? If so how is the hp and torque gain compared to the Belanger and B+B's? Any fitment issues with them?

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You must have seen that set on eBay right now for 5 bills?!?

Kevin D, interesting post. Never seen or heard of comparisons on equal cars on the same dyno. Good to know they are good headers, which is exactly what I would expect from them since they have been around for as long as they have.

I have them on my 95 and they have been on for around 4 years with not one single leak. I bought them used so had to make my own gaskets and have not had any problems since. As for power I was never 100% sure what they made because at the same time, I did the heads and cam. With the heads, cam and Edelbrock headers my car got a 100 RWHP bump from 372 to 469 rwhp and from 450 rwtq to 560 rwtq. So I have to believe the headers had something to do with it.

As for the fitment issue, I believe it is due to the fact that the motor does not sit in the stock mounts level when they come from the factory. I believe it leans one direction, but can't remember which direction. Either way I remember shimming the motor about 1/8th to 1/4 of an inch to get it to sit level and fitment is fine now.

Here is a pic of them on the car.

ACELLR8 said:

Kevin D, interesting post. Never seen or heard of comparisons on equal cars on the same dyno. Good to know they are good headers, which is exactly what I would expect from them since they have been around for as long as they have.

I have them on my 95 and they have been on for around 4 years with not one single leak. I bought them used so had to make my own gaskets and have not had any problems since. As for power I was never 100% sure what they made because at the same time, I did the heads and cam. With the heads, cam and Edelbrock headers my car got a 100 RWHP bump from 372 to 469 rwhp and from 450 rwtq to 560 rwtq. So I have to believe the headers had something to do with it.

As for the fitment issue, I believe it is due to the fact that the motor does not sit in the stock mounts level when they come from the factory. I believe it leans one direction, but can't remember which direction. Either way I remember shimming the motor about 1/8th to 1/4 of an inch to get it to sit level and fitment is fine now.

Here is a pic of them on the car.

Click to expand...

I noticed in the pic you do not have any heat shields on them. Is there not alot of heat under hood and on the plug wires then? Though I never really could see how much heat the shields would contain and block from the wires anyway, as it has to just escape around them. Just wondered your thoughts on that. I am looking at getting the Edelbrocks this winter.

What cam did you put in? What all or where did you have the heads done if you don't mind me asking? I have not thought much about a cam but have another set of heads I want to get work done to.
Thanks,

Craig

Gz21 said:

I noticed in the pic you do not have any heat shields on them. Is there not alot of heat under hood and on the plug wires then? Though I never really could see how much heat the shields would contain and block from the wires anyway, as it has to just escape around them. Just wondered your thoughts on that. I am looking at getting the Edelbrocks this winter.

What cam did you put in? What all or where did you have the heads done if you don't mind me asking? I have not thought much about a cam but have another set of heads I want to get work done to.
Thanks,

Craig

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Gz21,

I have not had any heat shields on 4 for years now, since I got rid of the stock exhaust manifods. I have had no issues, other than a year ago I had a bad plug wire at the boot, but then again the wires did have 3 years on them. I had the Edelbrocks Coated at Jet Hot Coatings (1200 Degree coating) before I put them on. They coat the inside and out. I definitely think this helps a lot in reducing the heat from the headers. I can now touch the headers 5 minutes after I have shut the car off and not burn myself.

I will have to say that I hear a lot of people say it is a bad idea to run without the heat shields, because it could lead to a fire. I think a lot of the fire issues had to do with the power steering pump cap coming off and fluid dumping on the headers. Like I said no issues here at all, but I guess based on other people's experiences use caution and make sure the power steering cap is screwed on VERY tight.

I used the crower stage I Cam and had Scott from Elite Motorsports do my heads. This was shortly before he had his issues with other viper owners and members of the forum.

I had a complete Port and Polish on the heads, 2.02 Intake Valves, 1.6 exhaust valves, 5 angle valve job, upgraded valve springs, and titanium retainers.

EdValves

ACELLR8 said:

As for the fitment issue, I believe it is due to the fact that the motor does not sit in the stock mounts level when they come from the factory. I believe it leans one direction, but can't remember which direction. Either way I remember shimming the motor about 1/8th to 1/4 of an inch to get it to sit level and fitment is fine now...

Click to expand...

Oh yeah...lol. Thanks for reminding me...yes...there was a 'slight' fitment issue becuase of exactly the reason you mentioned. And it was the *passenger side* of the motor that sit slightly lower than the right so we put in a small 1/8th shim on that mount and wala - the headers/flex pipe cleared all the frame points with many centimeters to spare...


~ Kevin D

PS; ..weren't your Edelbrock headers already ceramic coated out of the factory? You put ANOTHER coating on top of that? Or were the header design they made not coated 4 years ago back when u got them? Thanks.

BTW, I messaged Cosmetic Gasket Inc. about the header gaskets and got this response, so if anyone else wants to order them, here's your part number:

"EX788063C would be the part number for an individual gasket. This is a
solid copper design for the Edelbrock pattern. You can call 1-800-752-9850
to place your order."

Going to order mine today, just in case. Sounds like a good idea.

-Chris

Thanks. I called Cosmetic and ordered as well. $25 for 2 gaskets.

They originally engineered the cut for the Edelbrocks from the templates I sent them becuase of my issue....so u guys can thank me later!

~ Kevin D

Okay you girls using "Cosmetics",the name of the gasket company is "COMETIC"!

http://www.cometic.com/

Got my gaskets from Cometic today. I'll be installing this week. Did you use any sealant on them, or just straight up?

I talked to the Edelbrock folks, and they reccomended 25 ftlbs of torque starting with the middle bolt. They said there was a natural 'bow' in the headers that help keep the bolts tight. Is that what you did to help keep those bolts tight? I hate trying to torque them before every track event.

Don't go by what Edelbrock says for those heavy duty metal/copper units you just got from cometic...they're a whole different animal than the cheap paper gaskets you have to torque perfectly. With the copper one's just torque those suckers down! And no, no additional sealant needed. I torqued my cometic one's well over 40ft-lbs but pretty evenly with no sealant and haven't had a problem yet. The copper gasket will take anything you can throw at them bro....edelbrock should included them with their header. It would make their product second to none IMO...

Thanks. I'll give them a good torqing. I agree that they should have put in better gaskets. When I talked about this with the Edelbrock techs, they said that they don't even torque them down. Their words: 'Just put snug them up.' 600RWHP and I'm just 'snugging' the bolts. That's humorous.

I have a spare one if anybody needs it. Sold the car. $20 shipped anywhere in the USA lower 48 states.

I installed a set this spring...Good fit and finish ..No issues so far...Dont know about power increases...AL