I know in the gen 3+ that it is a setting in the BCM that you change, but I'm thinking the gen 1 would have been a little early for that and more likely "hardware" implemented as you've seen with harnesses and such. I've hooked my DRB III up to my mom's 94 once before to diagnose a spark issue...
For reference, here is the configuration report he pulled off of the car the other day. Was hoping it was possible to get a similar table to this with the original values it would have had when it left the factory.
I think I remember seeing a YouTube video where a guy compared a bunch of different ceramic sprays and the Turtle Wax actually did really well if I remember correctly.
So this isn't Viper related, but my dad has a 2015 Challenger and has been having trouble with getting the puddle lights working in the doors for years now. I recently acquired AlfaOBD as a means to reset configuration values on his controllers to see if they somehow got disabled, but the more...
One thing to keep in mind as well is that high zinc oils were typically more needed with old flat tappet cams as that was a high wear point, especially with aggressive valve spring pressures. Modern roller lifters largely get around this issue by actually having bearings, though the rocker arms...
Stock oil should work just fine in the long run I would think. There really shouldn't be any major differences on a heads/cam car that would need something else I can think of. Maybe higher valve spring pressures could put more strain on the cam if you have them, but otherwise I don't think...
The forums here are actually independently run, so there's no real benefit to us locking content behind memberships. The filtering is a different matter and something that could probably get updated to some degree. Most of it is just general "family friendly" censoring as far as I'm aware, but...
I had this one happen to me, but in a much more obvious way. My speedometer was going crazy at a standstill and swinging the needle all over the place. Wouldn't let the car go into reverse because it thought it was moving. Fairly sure this isn't your problem as it would be more obvious, but...
Can you use one of those link shortening websites by any chance? I'm frequently surprised by what words get censored on here sometimes. I'd rather still share knowledge and let people decide for themselves what they want to do.
I've always thought about getting my car professionally detailed one of these days. I do what I can to spruce it up from time to time, but I know my paint could use some more love than just the typical wash and occasional wax I give it. Would be interesting to see how different it might look...
Ah, okay. I see what you're getting at. Overall pretty much all Vipers were very well built and have lasted a long time without much for major issues. That being said, the ones I hear about the most on the early cars are the paper head gaskets weeping over time and the power steering pulley...
The gen 1 market is strange to me. I would have expected it to have gone up more than it has considering it was the "original" Viper. The gen 2 market seems to have outpaced it more though. The coupe tends to be more popular and the racing heritage that started with it certainly helps that...
The 04 crank doesn't have the tone notches machined in. Not sure if they could be added or not, but even if it could I'm not sure how practical that might be.
Just confirmed my high beams were on, so thinking I must have bumped the switch when I was pulling it out or putting it back in. As long as the assembly goes together the way you took it apart I think you should be good.
You probably could do some tape or other glue, as long as it sticks for you. I ended up with the resin just because I had a hard time getting anything else to work. I think tape would probably wear through fairly quickly though.
As for your piece being different, I'll have to give mine a try...
If your switch is anything like mine was, there will be a small groove worn into the opposite face of the lever where there is a little concave dish that the post from the turn signal stalk rides on. I exaggerated it a little bit on the second image, but I drew a line that shows where the...
With the top layer removed you should start to see the various moving parts inside the MFS that make the magic happen. As a side note here, the passenger side of the swtich actually doesn't need to come apart. It's more or less a self contained unit to run the wipers and has a separate...
Not sure if this will all fit in one post, so likely going to be a couple to get all the pictures. First step is obviously to remove the MFS from the column (I don't have any pictures of this step). It's pretty straightforward and easy. There are two phillips screws on the bottom of the...
Yeah, that was the ideal setup I was going for originally. I sort of cobbled one together by just splitting the connection between the DRB and the junction box and running that into a separate computer. Probably not the best idea ever, but it worked well enough to see the commands being sent...
I was always really tempted to do a black chrome setup on something, but not sure it would look as good on my car. I've just grown accustomed to the standard look on mine. Yours look awesome though!
I know some people have done it on the gen 3+ headlights, but don't recall seeing it done on the earlier ones. That being said I have a hard time believing they'd be any different.
Where is your hose broken? For what it's worth, mine snapped right near the valve because I forgot to unclip it from the strut tower brace before I removed it when I was doing some work on my engine years ago. I just put some rubber hose on it with some clamps to bridge the break and I've...
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