If you do not have an aftermarket swing pickup oil pan, then I would run an oil that will give you some extra protection. Race oils like Motul 20-50w have a high Molybendium content that can resist bearing scuffing from a momentary loss of oil pressure.
The writing is on the wall when it comes to smog and aftermarket parts. In past years there was kind of a gray area, but now they have cracked down really hard on the smog stations and the technicians are much less likely to look the other way. They could go to jail. California is the worst as...
If you put the car on a rack and look up under the engine you will be able to see the head gaskets sticking out from the side of the head. The replacement gaskets are black MLS (multi layer steel). the original gaskets are brown (composite). They tend to degrade over time. If you service your...
Yes, you can use the stock primary cats and they will work great and flow well, plus they most likely will outlast the aftermarket cats. You cannot package all 4 cats back in the system but you can modify the secondary cats for a 3 inch inlet and put them in the system. Most likely you will pass...
When it comes to brakes the balance is critical and the Viper is very sensitive to front rear bias, more so if you change springs or add Aero. The Brembo stuff is top notch, but I would only run the 4 wheel kit on a Gen 2 as the 2 wheel kit is just to front biased. If you just want looks and...
I have found that if you bolt up the manifold and torque it down slowly the flange with conform back to it's original shape. If your smog issue is with the visual inspection then the manifolds will correct that. If its an emissions failure (CO, HC or NOX) then you have another issue.
You have a 2 1/2 system if you have the stock exhaust. Specify 2 1/2 outlets for the headers. We tested with the stock muffler, Corsa 2 1/2 and 3 inch (with headers), Same results as Mark, power was almost the same with all of them, the 3 inch with Corsa made the most by just a few hp. It was...
These are real tricky but you can use an easy-out tool and hook it to a slide hammer used for body work. This is the only way I have been able to get them out.
I have had mixed experiences with aftermarket radiators, aluminum radiators tend to 'flex" with the chassis of the car and develop leaks where the core meets the tank. I have rubber mounted some of the radiators at the top, which seems to help. Aluminum radiators seem more susceptible to...
Its funny, I have dealt with many lubricants over the years and what is good for one car many not be good for another. Believe it or not Mopar has done a fairly good job with its lubricants. Some race lubricants are good for racecars but not for streetcars. I have been a victim of "snake oils"...
If you run more than 30 minute sessions that ATF can get too hot. It does shift better with the thinner fluid though. Take a fluid sample, if the ATF is turning brown then it needs to be changed. With three track events I would change it out. The later cars used Syntorque, it is a thicker fluid...
90% of the time this is the ball joints. They wont show any sign of play and lubing them does not seem to help. When they are removed and inspected there is a ridge on the ball surface. Replace them on the side that makes the noise and you will be fine.
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