2006 CEL comming on

RVW

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I have a 2006 all stock viper with 16,000 miles on it. Driving home tonight the CEL came on and the car starting running bad. Lost power. Ran the car up in 2nd gear and it starting back firing at around 4500 rpm and fell on it's face. Drove the car another 5 or so miles ran it up again in second gear and same thing at about 3500 rpm with the same results. What should I look for all gauges and temps read normal temps.
 

Sonoman

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I would get the code read (or buy a code reader for now and the future: $45 and up at Harbor Freight). While these cars are known for bad cats, it could be a number of things at this point, including ignition and fuel delivery. I once had similar symptoms from bad gas (on another car)... filled it up with gas from another station and it cleared up. This was from a name brand station too, got about two miles before it acted up quite severely.

Might check to see if you have good flow from both exhausts while the car is parked. Best not to drive it if a catalytic converter is truly plugged.
 

SEEEEYA

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get the error code, sit in car, turn key to on,3 times in 5 sec and leave it on, the code will come up by your mileage, just had the same issue, mine was a p0152 code that was the O2 sensor, $60 bucks later and 10min the car was good as Gold again, could not believe that sensor could make my car feel so bad, the sensors are heated and they go bad a lot, my 06 has only 4800k on it, thought mine was bad cats too, did give me an excuss for cat backs
 

PeterMJ

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changed the sensor and car still having the same issues.
I believe this is the pre cat sensor (there are two pre cat sensors), did you change the correct one and did the code clear? If the code cleared and car still bogs down, then either one or both cats got fouled up as a result of oxygen sensor issues. Not an expert here but this is what I would think is happening. Plugged up cats should get pretty hot due to restricted flow.
 
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RVW

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You are correct it is the pre cat sensor and the code did clear. Now the car falls flat on it's face at 3,000 rpm and the scanner tool says lean engine and suggests possible intake manifold gasket leaking. I did the normal intake checks for leakage and non were found. If the cats were plugged up would they show a code?
 

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You are correct it is the pre cat sensor and the code did clear. Now the car falls flat on it's face at 3,000 rpm and the scanner tool says lean engine and suggests possible intake manifold gasket leaking. I did the normal intake checks for leakage and non were found. If the cats were plugged up would they show a code?
I would expect the post cat oxygen sensor to throw a code if the cat did not work properly. I also think that plugged cat would make car run rich, not lean. However, from my recollection not related to Viper, faulty fuel system could cause the engine to run lean. For starters, I would check the fuel pressure to make sure it is within specs, fuel pressure regulators and pumps do go out with time.
 
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RVW

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Now no more codes and cats check out good, but the car still will not run over 3,000 rpm. Car is lean and poping past 3,000 rpm. In a trouble shooting guide it says possable cause is a bad intake manifold gasket cylinders 1,2,9 and 10 show lean condition rpm also the problem gets worst the warmer the car gets to opperating temp. Does the intake gasket thing make sence? I checked it for leakege and could find none. SOme other guys with V10's (truck) have had this issue and the intake gasket fixed it?
 

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Now no more codes and cats check out good, but the car still will not run over 3,000 rpm. Car is lean and poping past 3,000 rpm. In a trouble shooting guide it says possable cause is a bad intake manifold gasket cylinders 1,2,9 and 10 show lean condition rpm also the problem gets worst the warmer the car gets to opperating temp. Does the intake gasket thing make sence? I checked it for leakege and could find none. SOme other guys with V10's (truck) have had this issue and the intake gasket fixed it?
Did you check the fuel pressure? I would cover the basics before attempting more serious steps.
 

chesapeake07

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I believe this is the pre cat sensor (there are two pre cat sensors), did you change the correct one and did the code clear? If the code cleared and car still bogs down, then either one or both cats got fouled up as a result of oxygen sensor issues. Not an expert here but this is what I would think is happening. Plugged up cats should get pretty hot due to restricted flow.

I believe this is your issue. Had the exact same problems on my 05.
 

PeterMJ

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How does the car idle? I would imagine with intake manifold gasket leak, it would not idle too well. Also, I would check if this happens with cold and warm engine. If you had an access to scan tool, that could help you a lot.
 

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do you have fresh gas? old gas will cause this also- also look for melted wires on o2/shorted to metal
 
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RVW

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Scan tool says that cylinders 1,2,9 and 10 are lean under accelaration. After changing the O2 sensor car idled fine and will run fine up to 3,000 rpm then drops dead on it's face. Car wund a little better cold and the warmer it gets the worst it runs.
 

bluesrt

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next i would check pump pressure, guage should not fall under acceleration, it should jump up a smidge at least- the warmer it gets the worse it runs sounds like bad cats- hard to diognos this on the computer without seeing it in person
 

Sonoman

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Car wound a little better cold and the warmer it gets the worst it runs.

I had a failure like this (non-Viper) where the engine temp sensor feeding the ECU broke and caused the ECU to think the engine was fully cold all the time. So as the engine warmed up, it ran much worse! However, this would generally cause the mixture to be overly rich and not lean as you mentioned, since cold running conditions require additional fuel.
 

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After I put Headers on my 06' Coupe, I got the same exact code you did after 2,500 miles. Turned out to be a bad O2 wire which shook loose and burnt up against the exhaust. Might want to check your O2 wire pigtails. They can create a lot of problems you can not see unless you pull back the heat shield coverign to see what is going on. The SRT tech who fixed mine (which lasted for another 4,000+ miles before I sold the car) told me you should always replace the pigtail wires with an Pre-Post-02 sensor change. Worked in my case so wanted to pass it along.
 

PeterMJ

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Scan tool says that cylinders 1,2,9 and 10 are lean under accelaration. After changing the O2 sensor car idled fine and will run fine up to 3,000 rpm then drops dead on it's face. Car wund a little better cold and the warmer it gets the worst it runs.
Did you test the continuity of the wire to the sensor? Also, you should check the reference voltage on the sensor, with the sensor plugged in and unplugged. If this all checks out, I would get a fuel pressure gauge and read the fuel pressure to see if it is there. Seems to me like this may be the culprit. IMO, vacuum leak would be showing at idle.
 
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RVW

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Continuity has been checked and the referance voltage is reading OK per the shop I have the car at. Will checkthe fuel pressure tomorrow.
 

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If you have a android phone/tablet I would use this for a code reader it's called Torque Pro, (Link to googleplay store --> http://goo.gl/6rQSb ) it allows you to clear codes read codes etc.. They have a free version and a paid version but the paid version is 4.99 or 5.99 but it's worth every penny. I use it on my Viper and it works great.
But you will need one of these bluetooth obd scanners as well: Amazon is where I got mine: http://goo.gl/Dz0jJk. This one works perfectly with this app and I have used it on different cars to isolate my problems. I think in total it will cost you less than a Harbor freight scanner and it's more portable. you can leave it in your dash and pull it out and connect it to your mobile and use it anytime.

Could it be a clogged injector or bad fuel back

I hope it helps you out.
 
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SEEEEYA

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Glad you found the problem, mine was a bad wire going from the computer to the O2 sensor,gave cudos to dealer for digging deeper than normal, they drove the car around with a diagnostic running and they saw it spike the sensor again,they thought it was the computer going bad, which was covered under emissions, so they ordered one, i went back and as they swapped it out and ran the wire to the connector they saw the cracked wire, I dont know if the program was different on the new computer( they said version 6), or if this bad wire was there for a while, but the car runs smooth as silk now compared to the way it was. installed my roe racing tune and the smile just wont go away.....
 

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