Alans 2 Core > Fluidyne radiator?

Bugeater

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I have been running over 240 degrees on the roadcourse after upgrading to the Stryker heads. I have always run a Fluidyne, and with the prior motor config it would run 230-235. I was wondering if there is anyone out there that has upgraded to the Strykers and found heat an issue. Not street driving, roadcourse driving only, since you dont see the sustained high rpms on the street...

I wont touch a Ron Davis on a Viper. Too many bad stories. Only interested in verifiably "better" products to the Fluidyne....like possibly Alan's 2 core (triple pass) option, or ???

Anyone with experience cooling a non-stock n/a track motor?
 

DrumrBoy

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Fluidyne keeps me right at the rightmost mark on the stock gauge. On road courses with lots of turns, I find that the lower speeds entering and exiting corners keep me from running 5000+ all the time...so I may not be running as hard as you but for what its worth the fluidyne keeps up with the demand just fine.
 
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Bugeater

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What year is your car?

>>> Its a 1996, with a 2000 Block from a prior Arrow bluprint motor.

Also, ever though about the Roe duct if you don't already have it?

>>> I looked at that, but how does this work (or can it) with an autoform race fascia and a splitter that covers the entire front underside back to the frame recall plates?

Any Alan's users that roadrace?
 

dave6666

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>>> I looked at that, but how does this work (or can it) with an autoform race fascia and a splitter that covers the entire front underside back to the frame recall plates?

Any Alan's users that roadrace?

You might want to give Sean a call to disuss the specifics of your fascia & splitter, but a hole in the front is a hole in the front. Both your fascia and the splitter would have to be cut if they are where the hole goes.
 

revived_gearhead

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I have been running over 240 degrees on the roadcourse after upgrading to the Stryker heads. I have always run a Fluidyne, and with the prior motor config it would run 230-235. I was wondering if there is anyone out there that has upgraded to the Strykers and found heat an issue. Not street driving, roadcourse driving only, since you dont see the sustained high rpms on the street...

I wont touch a Ron Davis on a Viper. Too many bad stories. Only interested in verifiably "better" products to the Fluidyne....like possibly Alan's 2 core (triple pass) option, or ???

Anyone with experience cooling a non-stock n/a track motor?

Your comment about the Ron Davis radiator caught my eye. I have installed a Ron Davis radiator in all three Vipers I've owned and had no problems with heat reduction. The problem I have had is that you can smell coolant after each car came up to temp., but absolutely no leaks at all. I've heard that others had noticed this also. I have just about disassembled each car looking for an issue, but never found a thing. Anyone else ever notice this?
 

dave6666

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Hmm. So I'm no the only one that smells coolant with an RDR radiator.

I have always assumed it is from the bottle in the fascia. That bottle is vented to atmosphere, and vapors could be making it to your nose.

Or as you said, the mysterious RDR sniff test syndrome.
 

Asp Man

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Check your hose clamps, esp. if you run the silicone hoses, they can 'move' under the clamps and on the rad. *******/pump *******. This may account for the coolant scent after a drive. As well, make sure you are using a full circle type clamps, the ones with the smooth piece under the slotted bit. Regular hose clamps will cut into the silicone hose where the 'gear' slots are.

There is little doubt in my mind of the quality of the RD rad, though I'm sure they've made a couple that haven't failed...yet.
 

dave6666

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Clamps are correct and I even lubed them for additional torque, Then re-torqued. Smell does seem to fade over the life of the parts though. And my second RDR has made it past day one now. Life is 1+ and counting for statistical purposes now.
 

Camfab

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I actually run cooler with the Striker heads. My radiator is stock (new), but I have'nt road raced the car so I can't comment on that part.
 
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Bugeater

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Before I go out and get a replacement to the fluidyne, I am going to remove it and blow out any particles lodged in the cooling fins.

REDSLED recommended a solution that works for him that I am going to try - I went out and bought sheets of aluminum and will construct a "box" that blocks off the area to the left, right and top of the radiator (actually before the radiator, after entering the fascia) in order to force the air through the radiator cores. Jonathan uses a STOCK radiator in his racecar! Worth a shot before ponying up for another rad...

Probably call Sean as well re: cutting a hole in the splitter to force more air in...
 
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