Check engine light

[handyman_321]

OK...

Check engine light came on.. higher and inconsistant idle and feels jerky at low rpms when downshifting...

any ideas????

 

[Viper Wizard]

Need to start with a fault code out of the PCM, have someone plug in to pull codes! Guessing, it could be: TBS, IAC motor, O2, MAP, CTS [?], PCM, TS, CrkS, CamS, conectors, wiring.............??

 

[handyman_321]

ummmmmmmmm I'll take it to the dealership tomorrow but thanks for narrowing it down a bit wiz...lol

When are you going to move to toronto and open a shop here???

 

[Tom F&L GoR]

Go to a chain auto store and they most likely will have a code reader they will plug in for free. They would like to sell you the reader, the parts to repair the car, etc, but are still very accomodating. With the code you can start the diagnosis.

 

[jasontiff]

I don't know if this works on a Gen. II or not, but it works on a Gen. I:

• Turn the key in the ignition to the "on" position 3 times in 3 seconds, without turning the engine over.

The check engine light should flash in sequence. Have a pen and paper ready, and count the number of flashes before each pause, then write down the number. When 5 comes up twice in a row, the readout is over.

I bought a "diagnostic kit" from Advance Auto online for my Gen. I, which turned out to be a $40 f***ing book that gave me the above instructions, plus a glossary of what each error code meant.

If you didn't get to the dealership, try that test and shoot me a PM with the numbers and I can scan those pages in my book so you at least have an idea what's going on with your car. Good luck!

 

[RobZilla]

Possibly the best fourty dollars you can spend on a Viper (besides gas):

Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

 

[2000_Black_RT10]

If you want to stop by our shop in Markham during the work day along with a Tim Horton coffee for the mechanic, he'll check your codes & quote you on resolving the problem..

 

[handyman_321]

Thanks for the help guys... I already took it to the dealership and found out I had a couple faulty sensors. They replaced them and she's running great again.

 

[dave6666]

Thanks for the help guys... I already took it to the dealership and found out I had a couple faulty sensors. They replaced them and she's running great again.

Like maybe, a shiny nickel if you tell us which ones. You know, like how you have "a couple" sensors out and you can still drive it?

OK. Make that a sixer of Lone Star and some Zantac.

No, wait. Make that the beer and a LOT of Zantac.

 

[handyman_321]

hmmmmmmmmmmmm which ones huh??? OK I'm looking at the invoice now looks like he replaced both the TPS and MAP. cleaned carbon from IAC motor then cleared codes.

Road tested and everything was good...

Does this help at all???

 

[viperdude118]

Wow, both those sensors went out at exactly the same time?

 

[dave6666]

Does this help at all???

All I was getting at is, that the technical education that myself and others get by reading all of these posts, only goes full circle when you give an explanation of the cure you found to fix your ills. Stating what sensors you replaced doesn't take long to type, and means a lot to those that read all of these help fix my car threads.

 

[handyman_321]

Good point Dave.. I'll remember that next time.

You know anything about squeaky brakman #3's ???

 

[Longnecker]

My check engin light just came on as well.
Stock 95 gen 1
Motor runs smooth and then seems to miss or studder and then runs smooth again. Like fuel or possibly spark missing. Have new wires.
As soon as the motor is stopped and restarted the light goes out for about 10 minutes. Some times it is out for an hour.
Reading the code from the flashing check engine light we get 1 2 2 1 2 1 2 1 2 2
Any ideas....?

Longnecker

 

[jasontiff]

My check engin light just came on as well.
Stock 95 gen 1
Motor runs smooth and then seems to miss or studder and then runs smooth again. Like fuel or possibly spark missing. Have new wires.
As soon as the motor is stopped and restarted the light goes out for about 10 minutes. Some times it is out for an hour.
Reading the code from the flashing check engine light we get 1 2 2 1 2 1 2 1 2 2
Any ideas....?

Longnecker

According to the manual for Gen. I's, the 12 is "direct battery input to computer is lost or interrupted."

Error code 21 is one of two things:
1.) Oxygen sensor stays at center (no rich or lean signal detected when in closed loop).

2.) Oxygen sensor shorted to voltage, signal too high (cars/trucks/vans '90-'95).

It shouldn't spit out 21 three times though (group numbers in twos, i.e. 12, 21, 21, 21, 22) and the last code it spits should be 55, signaling the end of the sequence.

 

[Longnecker]

Thanks for the reply Jason.

Re checked the code and come up with the same numbers followed by 55.

Guess it's off to the dealer...

Longnecker

 

[Longnecker]

Jason, Thanks for the code de-coding.
Car at the local dealer. Problem seems to with the oxygen sensors. Still some issues with the right side, then the left. Not right yet. Codes seem backwards on reader.

Runs ruff while taking off, sputters after some easy driving, nail it and it tends to clear up with a shot of normal power.

 

[Leatherman]

Possibly the best fourty dollars you can spend on a Viper (besides gas):

Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

Only recently bought an RT-10 so dont know too much about them yet. Would this reader be any good for a 1994

 

[jasontiff]

Only recently bought an RT-10 so dont know too much about them yet. Would this reader be any good for a 1994

1994s have an OBDI, not an OBDII. You'd need something different.

I bought a manual from Advance Auto and also picked up one of the EASE diagnostic kits from Roe.