Clutch question on RT 10

[AJT]

I dropped my car off at dealership to replace leaking rear main seal & when I went to pick it up the clutch pedal goes halfway to the floor before it engages. When I dropped it off it had pressure as soon as I started to push pedal, full pressure the length of the push.

The dealership states it only worked halfway when they moved it to the stall. They state there is no bleeding of clutch cylinder & i may need to replace master & slave.

I talked to Doug (DLM) & he told me there is bleeding & of course I believe Dough over the dealership.

Anyone else have this clutch problem?

Did bleeding it correct it?

Thanks
Andy

 

[Dom426h]

HA! The average person would have a difficult time finding the bleeder screw for our clutch system but to tell someone that there is "no bleading" is complete amateur night.

I'd call the Wizard with your story. He'd have a laugh and give you some good advice

 

[BAD BOYZZ GARAGE]

There is a couple things to consider because to get to the rear main seal your entire clutch rotating assembly gets removed.

They disconnected your high pressure fluid line to your HRB / slave cylinder and re-connected which can create air in the system, so it definetly needs to be bled. It's located directly in the same area of your bell housing that your fluid line is (FYI).

During re-install of your clutch unit, if not properly aligned the HRB / slave cylinder can be damaged and crack. This doesn't sound likely because you still have some pedal, but does and has happened in the field.

Give your system a bleed and you might be good. Check fluid level first and be sure to use correct Mopar or equilant type fluid.

Hope this helps a bit. We specialize in Viper clutch systems and have heard about or seen issues that arise. If your tech needs a hand just have him give us a call, we'll walk you through the process.


BAD BOYZZ GARAGE, INC.
Toddy
(916) 505-9026

 

[plumcrazy]

always trust DLM

 

[AJT]

Hey Plum!

Thanks everyone for the help. The dealership called me said they talked to another dealer & bled the system & it didn't help. Of course I know Doug is right. He then tells me since it happened there & they have done all the warranty work that they thought it was the rod, bushing & clutch master cyclinder & they would do it for just parts. (401.00).

Now this is where my kneejerk reaction says to tell them that it just need to be bled by someone (I know how) that has half a brain. Then I think, the car is 10 yrs old, this part is probably going to start going out in the near future, why not let the dummies do the labor.????

.02??

 

[FastZilla]

....And your so close to Tomball (ben Keatings shop).... I promise they know how to do it. FWIW: If you do replace the master/slave cylinders - save the old ones, they can be rebuilt for $20-30 each (typical rebuild kit cost), then sell the "rebuilts" on VCA and recoup some of your $400. (unless they cracked them during initial R&R like Bad Boyz mentioned - if so they should buy the parts). Always ask for your old parts back, you paid for them and it keeps the mechanics honest (keeps them from rebuilding them in the shop and charging you for new ones).

 

[AJT]

Good point. I am like everyone else, first instinct is "don't touch my car" but free labor to install is hard to pass up.

 

[CEJ]

Good point. I am like everyone else, first instinct is "don't touch my car" but free labor to install is hard to pass up.

Go with your first instinct.