Coolant components in driver side front facia?

[HOdbleFman]

I recently mowed down a raccoon going 85 mph with the driver side front facia. I didn't think there was any damage until a check engine light came on. I had it checked out and it turned out that the '**** had broken the Leak Detection Pump located behind the front facia on the driver's side. Now I am noticing that my car is running hot at slow speeds or idle. I had a gasket replaced on the thermostat housing and then "burped the system" but I am still experiencing problems. Is it possible that the impact could've damaged something related to the coolant system in this area. I know the coolant reservoir is located behind the passenger side facia, but I don't know what is located behind the driver side facia that could be related to the coolant system. Help guys.

 

[Chuck B 98 GTS]

I can't think of anything on the driver side that would cause that kind of problem?

Cheers,
Chuck

 

[Viper Specialty]

umm... The Leak Detection Pump Is located behind the PASSENGER, REAR wheel... I think you may have been had...?

The only component related to the LDP system in the driver front corner is a hose with a valve on the end of it like a tire-valve. unless that little B@astard completely crushed the bumper...you would not have affected that hose, and its rubber on top of that. (unless the jolt knocked the valve out of the hose...?) The ABS pump, if you have ABS, is located in the driver front corner...otherwise, there isnt much there.

I can think of nothing other than the fan motor, wiring and shroud even close to that area that could cause a cooling problem, unless (he) damaged the radiator itself, which is possible if you ran (him) over.

Let me know what you find...

EDIT- It is possible, if you have a pre-2000 car, that the LDP may indeed be located there, but I dont remember seeing it on any of the cars I have worked on. I know for a fact it is behind the Pass Rear wheel on 01-02.

 

[HOdbleFman]

Thanks Dan. I have a 98 GTS. I'm pretty sure the LDP is in the front or an LDP cannister of some sort. Whatever it is, I verified that it was broken before I bought a new one. It was visibly cracked and the new part I ordered looked just like the old one, so I think I've got that problem taken care of. I just can't figure out what this cooling problem is. Most people I take it to don't think there is anything wrong with it because it isn't actually overheating, but I know it didn't run quite this hot in the past. That was in the summer too. Now it is cold outside and it is still running a little warm. Very frustrating and the thing is I don't really have a competent Viper tech to take it to. The only one near me doesn't really know a lot about the cars because he doesn't get a chance to work with them much.

 

[Viper Specialty]

Hmm... I would inspect the radiator a little closer.

But yes, the Charcoal Canister is located in the inner corner behind the foglight. It isnt the LDP, but it is connected to it. (though the computer wouldnt know if this part was functioning or not)

 

[Hoosier Daddy]

umm... The Leak Detection Pump Is located behind the PASSENGER, REAR wheel... I think you may have been had...?

The only component related to the LDP system in the driver front corner is a hose with a valve on the end of it like a tire-valve. unless that little B@astard completely crushed the bumper...you would not have affected that hose, and its rubber on top of that. (unless the jolt knocked the valve out of the hose...?) The ABS pump, if you have ABS, is located in the driver front corner...otherwise, there isnt much there.

I can think of nothing other than the fan motor, wiring and shroud even close to that area that could cause a cooling problem, unless (he) damaged the radiator itself, which is possible if you ran (him) over.

Let me know what you find...

EDIT- It is possible, if you have a pre-2000 car, that the LDP may indeed be located there, but I dont remember seeing it on any of the cars I have worked on. I know for a fact it is behind the Pass Rear wheel on 01-02.

Yeap the year matters. Leak detection pump is behind the front fascia on the 98. Requires fascia removal. Had two of those replaced under warranty for being filled with engine oil and eventually failing.

 

[Viper Specialty]

Hoosier Daddy- please explain more of your oil loss situation. I am interested in that story, knowing that many people have "oil consumption" problems, but their cars never actually seem to burn oil. Possibly may have stumbled accross a partial explanation.

Good to know that they did switch the location of the LDP, it makes sense, as they would not have been able to fit it up there with the ABS.

 

[Ulysses]

Before we get too far off topic, let's hear a little more about WVMechEngr's problem. Are you loosing coolant? If there was any upward force on the bottom of the facia, I would check the bottom of the overflow bottle for a hole. Ther is a bolt in that corner on the bottom of the facia that will puncture the overflow bottle. Check to see if the overflow bottle is empty or real low. Put some coolant/water mix in the over flow via the tube to the coolant pressure tank and see if it is leaking out.

 

[HOdbleFman]

No. I'm not losing coolant. I've burped the system several times as well. The coolant reservoir is full and the surge tank is 2/3 full as well as recommended by JonB. Here is what happens. When I first take the car for a drive the car heats up till it reaches 190 at which point the thermostat opens as it should and the temp drops down to the mark before 190. Then as i continue to drive it heats back up till somewhere between 190 mark and the one after it. This is pretty normal. Now when I slow down to below 30 mph it keeps getting hotter until it reaches 223 where the fan kicks on. It will cool down a bit and then heat back up again and again. I wouldn't really worry about it except how much it fluctuates and the fact that it's 30 F outside and it didn't run this hot in the summer when it was 100 F outside. I guess the next thing to look at is the water pump. How would I know if this is the problem?

 

[Viper Specialty]

keep in mind, when you have the A/C on, the temp will stay much steadier that when you do not.

 

[Ulysses]

From the shop manual, a quick way to test the water pump is to see if the heater is working correctly. A faulty water pump will not be able to circulate the hot coolant to the heater core very well.

When engine is warmed up, both heater hoses should also be hot. If one is hot and the other cool, you may have a bad water pump.

One other thing I used to do to check for a bad water pump was to remove the drive belt and give the pulley a spin. Normally, if the impeller was working correctly, the water would give it a bit of resistance and the pulley would slow down quickly. If the impeller had broken loose somehow, the pulley would have very little resistance and spin easily.