Phoenix, get her done yet? Anyone else able to provide some measurements?
Car is back on the ground and I have some info:
1) learned a lesson that car sits much lower on ground than when you jack up a specific corner to check height, i.e. I has car on four jack stands and would jack up the lower control arm on a given corner until the car was in the air and measure the hub-to-fender distance to get a base measurements. Once car was on the ground for real it sat quite a bit lower (I think this has to do with a lateral spring effect of the still attached anti-roll bars). This means that with the 10" springs they give you, at the very lowest setting the Aldans will be right around the height of the Eiback lowering springs up front which is about a half inch drop, so if you want to slam the car you need shorter front springs. I like the 9" inch springs I switched to as now the springs seats both front and rear are adjusted the same each other in height (comforting for the OCD).
2) regarding our lower driver's rear corner issue, I put the driver's rear half an inch higher than the passenger and ended up with hub-to-fender measurement the same on both sides, but I thought it still looked low on the driver's. Measured from flat garage floor to bottom of rear frame and sure enough driver's side was right about a quarter inch closer to the ground. Raised the driver's another quarter inch and frame measurement is very close, with ground-to-fender on driver's side now an eighth inch higher than passenger side. Given that my lower rear control arm eccentrics for alignment adjustment are very close to one another, this means the dropping rear driver's corner is definitely a shock mount issue. Apparently the driver's side upper mount is higher. It is the only answer. My thought of a solution for you is to perhaps make a "reverse" lowering cap. A spring cap that has an aluminum ring 1/2-3/4" tall welded to it. But measure your ground to frame distance and see where that is at.
3) wow coilovers are nice! And coilovers with externally adjustable damping are even better. No spring compressor needed ever! Right now I have my light 300 pound front springs on the lightest damping settings and the 500 pound rears in the miiddle. I think I could use a bit more rebound in the rear which leads me to think the shock might have trouble with a significantly stiffer rear spring.
4) I have set the car at 15" from front hub to fender (basically stock height) and 15-1/2" from rear hub to fender (about an inch lower than stock). This still leaves a HUGE gap in the rear, but I do not think the rear can go much lower without the rear of the side pod looking coser to the ground than the front of the pod, and I do not want that. I saw yet another C6 Zo6 yesterday and have to say I am very envious of the Vette's lack of wheel gap. Never have undestood why the Viper was desinged with such a large gap.