ruckdr
Enthusiast
Hi All,
This is being posted again, and with some additions, as requested by several members.
The format of this post will not look like the WORD documents, and I am happy to send the WORD documents upon request
Email: [email protected]
************
DOOR POPPER FOR '93 THROUGH 96 VIPER ROADSTERS
Originally Provided by: Tom McCarty -- VPA Club Member 9705267
GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS
The electronics for keyless entry are already in your Viper. With a little effort and a little money, you can pop open your door and disarm your security system at the same time using the TRW remote transmitter that came with your car.
Parts List:
1. Actuator - Aftermarket solenoid VPA# 80138 (909)273-1033
VPA (Vehicle Power Accessories), at : www.auto-accessories.com
Phone 909-273-1033. The part number is: VPA model # 80138, and they sell for $21.05 + shipping.
2. Female Connector Contact (s) *
3. About l0ft of 14 AWG stranded automotive wire (per door).
Procedure:
1. .Remove the knee panel on the driver's side.
2. The TRW receiver is mounted on the right side of the foot well on the transmission tunnel.
3. There are two (2) connectors coming out of this unit. You want the lower (bigger)
of the two.
A. The connector has two (2) rows, four (4) positions in each row. The left row has only one wire coining out; the other three (3) positions are empty. Counting top to bottom, the first empty position past that wire is the one you want for the "driver" door; the "unlock" button on your remote. The second empty position is the output for the "trunk" button on your remote, which can be used for the passenger door if you wish, IF YOU HAVE ONE. The third empty position and is not used.
B. Strip your wire and crimp a female contact on, and slide it in to the rear of the connector until it makes connection with its male counterpart.
C. Test this connection by attaching the opposite end of the wire through a 12-volt lamp or voltmeter to chassis ground.
D. Lock and them unlock your remote transmitter. You should see a momentary +12 volts as you press the 'unlock' button.
4. Having successfully completed the easy part, it's time to install the door solenoid.
A. Remove the door trim: it all comes loose in one piece.
B. Disconnect the tweeter speaker (inline connector wrapped in tape)
C. Slide the door trim away from the seat belt
D. Remove the bolts that secure the shoulder belt retractor to the door, and move the assembly out of your way. You can now see the door latch mechanism. Suggest that you activate the door handle to understand which part you will hook up to.
There is a hole with a plastic grommet in it towards the bottom of the mechanism, and will be used as your "pull point" for the solenoid.
5. Mount the solenoid on the outside of the "reinforcement" so its cable is inline with the "pull point".
A. Connect the solenoid cable to the pull point; take out all slack between the
pull point and the solenoid and secure (see sketch in kit).
BE CAREFUL, DO NOT PRE-LOAD THE PULL CABLE; TAKE THE SLACK OUT ONLY, THE LEVER MUST BE ABLE TO TRAVEL TO IT’S NORMAL POSITION. The door “closed” sensor is attached (you can see the wire plug) at the top of the latch and if the lever can not travel to its fully closed position the security system will assume the door is still open. To ensure you are allowing just enough slack be sure to test the door by closing it and checking whether the interior light goes out (a sign that the door is closed properly).
B. Attach one of the two contacts on the solenoid to the retractor enclosure
(chassis ground). In some earlier model cars, the retractor enclosure does not ground. An alternative method for grounding is to locate the cross-member support inside the door. Near the back of the cross-member is a flat piece welded onto the cross member. It has a ½ inch hole already it in. Drill a small hole next to that hole, sand the paint off the area around the newly drilled hole and use a self-tapping screw to secure the ground wire making sure it comes in contact with the sanded area so it grounds properly.
C. The other contact will be attached to that long piece of wire. You're going to
run the wire from the solenoid through the rubber flex tube that goes between the firewall and the door and contains the other wires that terminate in the door.
D. Secure the wire along its route using tie wraps or electrical tape, so it doesn’t
interfere with the mechanical linkage.
E. Connect this wire to the + (either) contact on the solenoid.
F. Test the project; pop the door using your remote! After successful testing,...... close the incisions
.
* We have tried to get a Chrysler part number for this contact, so far to no avail. Use a wire splice, remove the insulation if any. crimp the wire into one side, slide it in through the existing connector body, and onto the male contact in the TRW receiver.
LAP BELT RETRACTOR
Don’t forget to connect the tweeter speaker wire when replacing the door panel.
***************
DOOR POPPER FOR ‘93 THROUGH 96 VIPER ROADSTERS
INSTALLATION TIP #1 WIRING
The Solenoid when mounted in the door, has 2 wires to connect:
A. The ‘Ground’ wire (either terminal on the solenoid) can be terminated (connected)
in the door, which grounds to the chassis through the door hinge.
B. The ‘Hot’ wire (or trigger wire) must be routed to the alarm system or switch
through the rubber boot between the door and the chassis.
1. It works best to pull the boot loose from the chassis to eliminate the curvature.
2. Use a long piece of coat hanger. Put a 180 degree loop on the “feed” end and
crimp it tight; this to eliminate puncturing the boot. Feed it up through the boot
from the door side (inside the door).
3. Tie a knot in the wire, and connect to the coat hanger with a 360 degree loop,
crimped tightly around the wire. A little soap or silicon sprayed on the coat
hanger/ wire knot, will help the pull through.
4. Pull the wire through the boot, carefully, then feed through the chassis hole
and replace the boot into the chassis.
5. Route the wire up, over, around, through, to the alarm box, and connect as
described in “DOOR POPPER FOR ‘96 THROUGH 96 VIPER ROADSTERS,
GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS.
Don’t forget to connect the tweeter speaker wire when replacing the door panel.
*************
DOOR POPPER FOR ‘93 THROUGH 96 VIPER ROADSTERS
USAGE TIP #1 MANUAL DOOR LOCKS
Just a piece of information that you will probably find "common sense", but just in case:
Remember the door openers function just like your door handles, only electrically;
THEREFORE, DO NOT ROTATE THE MANUAL DOOR LOCK TO THE LOCK POSITION when exiting the car and activiting your alarm, of if you just leave the car not alarmed and will use the unlock button (key fob) to pop open the door. The electric opener WILL NOT release the manual door lock, just like the door handles will not release the lock allowing the door to open.
*************
DOOR POPPER INSTALLATION COMMENTS
Comments from Patrick Hiebert 1994 RT/10
Installed 04/17/2001
1. I had a heck of a time finding some kind of connector to plug into the security system box male connectors that would stay in there. I found eventually that pulling out the plastic blue wire holders and using a crimped 22 gauge female connector shoved in there, then putting the blue wire holders back worked. Then I used tie raps to snug the wire as much as I could so it wouldn’t pop out. That probably took me an hour and a couple trips to the hardware store to find something that wouldn’t keep popping out. Probably just my dumb luck though!
2. My car has central seat belts; do yours come from the door side? Your instructions seemed to suggest that the seat belt retractor was in the door? There is no retractor in my doors but unfortunately the guy that had the car before me apparently had some stereo crossovers in the door. They were mounted in the same spot as where the solenoid was supposed to go so I had a lot of moving things around, drilling, mounting etc to do that others wouldn’t.
3. Then I had a heck of a time finding a proper ground. Nothing seemed to ground anywhere in the door. Finally I drilled a small hole in a piece that hung off the cross member and put a self-tapping screw into that and it grounded properly. That was the longest part of the installation. If there is a certain place that works, I couldn’t find it. Of course the instructions said to mount the ground wire to the seat belt retractor housing. The housing in my door didn’t ground, it was just a metal plate that apparently didn’t connect to the chassis.
4. Getting the wire through the door channel was pretty simple. I actually took the boot off the door and threaded it from the car side which seemed to work better in my case.
Anyway, the door works really well and not having to reach through the windows will be a real treat! Thanks again for the instructions, without them I never would have found the right spot to connect the wire too.
***************
DOOR POPPER INSTALLATION COMMENTS
Comments from Thomas Hayden 1994 RT/10
Installed 04/17/2001
After removing the seatbelt roll-up mechanism from the box in the door, I
simply drilled two
holes in what would be the outside -facing wall of the box ( side facing
the door skin), at a 45 degree angle going upwards toward the rear, to mount
the bracket supplied with the popper.
That lined up the popper solenoid and cable with
the door lock very well. As you mentioned, toward the door skin side of the
door lock is an arm with a nylon bushing which I used to pull down and
forward on. I used the hook supplied in the kit to connect the door lever to
the cable. I found you had to make the cable connection a little tighter
than the VPA instructions, otherwise it was too slack and it wouldn't open
the door. I think I ended up cutting off about half of the cable because
there was so much extra. I used the black cable cover (also cut shorter)
mostly to seal the hole in the solenoid where the cable enters - don't want
anything to fall in there (water, bugs, dust.) "
This is being posted again, and with some additions, as requested by several members.
The format of this post will not look like the WORD documents, and I am happy to send the WORD documents upon request
Email: [email protected]
************
DOOR POPPER FOR '93 THROUGH 96 VIPER ROADSTERS
Originally Provided by: Tom McCarty -- VPA Club Member 9705267
GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS
The electronics for keyless entry are already in your Viper. With a little effort and a little money, you can pop open your door and disarm your security system at the same time using the TRW remote transmitter that came with your car.
Parts List:
1. Actuator - Aftermarket solenoid VPA# 80138 (909)273-1033
VPA (Vehicle Power Accessories), at : www.auto-accessories.com
Phone 909-273-1033. The part number is: VPA model # 80138, and they sell for $21.05 + shipping.
2. Female Connector Contact (s) *
3. About l0ft of 14 AWG stranded automotive wire (per door).
Procedure:
1. .Remove the knee panel on the driver's side.
2. The TRW receiver is mounted on the right side of the foot well on the transmission tunnel.
3. There are two (2) connectors coming out of this unit. You want the lower (bigger)
of the two.
A. The connector has two (2) rows, four (4) positions in each row. The left row has only one wire coining out; the other three (3) positions are empty. Counting top to bottom, the first empty position past that wire is the one you want for the "driver" door; the "unlock" button on your remote. The second empty position is the output for the "trunk" button on your remote, which can be used for the passenger door if you wish, IF YOU HAVE ONE. The third empty position and is not used.
B. Strip your wire and crimp a female contact on, and slide it in to the rear of the connector until it makes connection with its male counterpart.
C. Test this connection by attaching the opposite end of the wire through a 12-volt lamp or voltmeter to chassis ground.
D. Lock and them unlock your remote transmitter. You should see a momentary +12 volts as you press the 'unlock' button.
4. Having successfully completed the easy part, it's time to install the door solenoid.
A. Remove the door trim: it all comes loose in one piece.
B. Disconnect the tweeter speaker (inline connector wrapped in tape)
C. Slide the door trim away from the seat belt
D. Remove the bolts that secure the shoulder belt retractor to the door, and move the assembly out of your way. You can now see the door latch mechanism. Suggest that you activate the door handle to understand which part you will hook up to.
There is a hole with a plastic grommet in it towards the bottom of the mechanism, and will be used as your "pull point" for the solenoid.
5. Mount the solenoid on the outside of the "reinforcement" so its cable is inline with the "pull point".
A. Connect the solenoid cable to the pull point; take out all slack between the
pull point and the solenoid and secure (see sketch in kit).
BE CAREFUL, DO NOT PRE-LOAD THE PULL CABLE; TAKE THE SLACK OUT ONLY, THE LEVER MUST BE ABLE TO TRAVEL TO IT’S NORMAL POSITION. The door “closed” sensor is attached (you can see the wire plug) at the top of the latch and if the lever can not travel to its fully closed position the security system will assume the door is still open. To ensure you are allowing just enough slack be sure to test the door by closing it and checking whether the interior light goes out (a sign that the door is closed properly).
B. Attach one of the two contacts on the solenoid to the retractor enclosure
(chassis ground). In some earlier model cars, the retractor enclosure does not ground. An alternative method for grounding is to locate the cross-member support inside the door. Near the back of the cross-member is a flat piece welded onto the cross member. It has a ½ inch hole already it in. Drill a small hole next to that hole, sand the paint off the area around the newly drilled hole and use a self-tapping screw to secure the ground wire making sure it comes in contact with the sanded area so it grounds properly.
C. The other contact will be attached to that long piece of wire. You're going to
run the wire from the solenoid through the rubber flex tube that goes between the firewall and the door and contains the other wires that terminate in the door.
D. Secure the wire along its route using tie wraps or electrical tape, so it doesn’t
interfere with the mechanical linkage.
E. Connect this wire to the + (either) contact on the solenoid.
F. Test the project; pop the door using your remote! After successful testing,...... close the incisions
.
* We have tried to get a Chrysler part number for this contact, so far to no avail. Use a wire splice, remove the insulation if any. crimp the wire into one side, slide it in through the existing connector body, and onto the male contact in the TRW receiver.
LAP BELT RETRACTOR
Don’t forget to connect the tweeter speaker wire when replacing the door panel.
***************
DOOR POPPER FOR ‘93 THROUGH 96 VIPER ROADSTERS
INSTALLATION TIP #1 WIRING
The Solenoid when mounted in the door, has 2 wires to connect:
A. The ‘Ground’ wire (either terminal on the solenoid) can be terminated (connected)
in the door, which grounds to the chassis through the door hinge.
B. The ‘Hot’ wire (or trigger wire) must be routed to the alarm system or switch
through the rubber boot between the door and the chassis.
1. It works best to pull the boot loose from the chassis to eliminate the curvature.
2. Use a long piece of coat hanger. Put a 180 degree loop on the “feed” end and
crimp it tight; this to eliminate puncturing the boot. Feed it up through the boot
from the door side (inside the door).
3. Tie a knot in the wire, and connect to the coat hanger with a 360 degree loop,
crimped tightly around the wire. A little soap or silicon sprayed on the coat
hanger/ wire knot, will help the pull through.
4. Pull the wire through the boot, carefully, then feed through the chassis hole
and replace the boot into the chassis.
5. Route the wire up, over, around, through, to the alarm box, and connect as
described in “DOOR POPPER FOR ‘96 THROUGH 96 VIPER ROADSTERS,
GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS.
Don’t forget to connect the tweeter speaker wire when replacing the door panel.
*************
DOOR POPPER FOR ‘93 THROUGH 96 VIPER ROADSTERS
USAGE TIP #1 MANUAL DOOR LOCKS
Just a piece of information that you will probably find "common sense", but just in case:
Remember the door openers function just like your door handles, only electrically;
THEREFORE, DO NOT ROTATE THE MANUAL DOOR LOCK TO THE LOCK POSITION when exiting the car and activiting your alarm, of if you just leave the car not alarmed and will use the unlock button (key fob) to pop open the door. The electric opener WILL NOT release the manual door lock, just like the door handles will not release the lock allowing the door to open.
*************
DOOR POPPER INSTALLATION COMMENTS
Comments from Patrick Hiebert 1994 RT/10
Installed 04/17/2001
1. I had a heck of a time finding some kind of connector to plug into the security system box male connectors that would stay in there. I found eventually that pulling out the plastic blue wire holders and using a crimped 22 gauge female connector shoved in there, then putting the blue wire holders back worked. Then I used tie raps to snug the wire as much as I could so it wouldn’t pop out. That probably took me an hour and a couple trips to the hardware store to find something that wouldn’t keep popping out. Probably just my dumb luck though!
2. My car has central seat belts; do yours come from the door side? Your instructions seemed to suggest that the seat belt retractor was in the door? There is no retractor in my doors but unfortunately the guy that had the car before me apparently had some stereo crossovers in the door. They were mounted in the same spot as where the solenoid was supposed to go so I had a lot of moving things around, drilling, mounting etc to do that others wouldn’t.
3. Then I had a heck of a time finding a proper ground. Nothing seemed to ground anywhere in the door. Finally I drilled a small hole in a piece that hung off the cross member and put a self-tapping screw into that and it grounded properly. That was the longest part of the installation. If there is a certain place that works, I couldn’t find it. Of course the instructions said to mount the ground wire to the seat belt retractor housing. The housing in my door didn’t ground, it was just a metal plate that apparently didn’t connect to the chassis.
4. Getting the wire through the door channel was pretty simple. I actually took the boot off the door and threaded it from the car side which seemed to work better in my case.
Anyway, the door works really well and not having to reach through the windows will be a real treat! Thanks again for the instructions, without them I never would have found the right spot to connect the wire too.
***************
DOOR POPPER INSTALLATION COMMENTS
Comments from Thomas Hayden 1994 RT/10
Installed 04/17/2001
After removing the seatbelt roll-up mechanism from the box in the door, I
simply drilled two
holes in what would be the outside -facing wall of the box ( side facing
the door skin), at a 45 degree angle going upwards toward the rear, to mount
the bracket supplied with the popper.
That lined up the popper solenoid and cable with
the door lock very well. As you mentioned, toward the door skin side of the
door lock is an arm with a nylon bushing which I used to pull down and
forward on. I used the hook supplied in the kit to connect the door lever to
the cable. I found you had to make the cable connection a little tighter
than the VPA instructions, otherwise it was too slack and it wouldn't open
the door. I think I ended up cutting off about half of the cable because
there was so much extra. I used the black cable cover (also cut shorter)
mostly to seal the hole in the solenoid where the cable enters - don't want
anything to fall in there (water, bugs, dust.) "
