Frozen/stuck wheel lug nut

vipertime3

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Anybody have a suggestion on how best to break loose a lug nut that's very stuck? It's one of the rear wheel lugs and I've broken two ratchet extensions just gradually applying more torque, but the nut just won't budge. I've put penetrating oil, and even tried slightly tightening the other 5, but nothing works.

I've thought about using a power wrench but don't want to bust the lug, making matters far worse.

Thoughts?
 

Tom F&L GoR

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You slightly tightened the other 5, how about the stuck one? That sometimes gets it loose.

This is better than having a rounded off nut. If it breaks, I don't think it's a big deal to push it in and replace it.

Extensions? The long bar? Wow.
 
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vipertime3

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Thanks for the comments. I was using a very short extension both times they broke. . .so much for Craftsman quality. The first one simply cracked right at the torgque wrench, and the second one had the end bust clean off right at the socket I was using.

Sadly, it didn't occur to me to tighten the stuck one! Doh! I'll give it a try.
 
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DAMN YANKEE

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There is one more old timer trick left...

Let me know if it is still stuck.
 

kcobean

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This is where a good 4-way lug wrench helps. Being able to apply torque with both hands (or both hands on one side and a foot on the other) is much more effective than torque from a ratchet or short breaker bar.

On another note, I broke a key for a locking lug nut once (not on the Viper). Took the car to a tire shop and they used a chisel of some sort to break the lug off. Cost like $20.

Good luck!
 
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vipertime3

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"cracked right at the torgque wrench"


You know not to use your torque wrench as a breaker bar right?


Yes, it's an old torque wrench that I've "converted" into a breaker bar. Got a much nicer/accurate torque wrench for actually torquing bolts down.

I'll give it another try tomorrow.
 

twinturbo3150

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A breaker bar and a impact deep well socket with no extension is your best bet to bust it loose, and a long piece of pipe for extra leverage. Inpact gun would be even better
 

CO GTS

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Ok, I just went through this preparing for a NASA race in Pueblo CO last weekend. When I went to switch to my race tires I could not loosen 4 nuts on my left front. I 1st tried the WD40 thing and ended up breaking my 4-way. Next I decided to use a 1/2" breaker bar with a 4 foot pipe extension. When I saw that the stress on the 1/2" extension was causing the chrome on it to crack I stopped. Time for a professional I figured before I had wrenches flying around or caused some damage that would surely hack me off.

The pros tried an impact gun and the breaker bar with 3' extension and got 3 of the 4 problem children off. They had some Sumo wrestler type damn near sitting on the bar. The forth they had problems with; even the sumo guy was not enough. They were reading over 290 ft lbs of torque! In fact after trying for about half an hour they stopped and worried about damaging the wheel or car if they kept trying. They could no longer get a bite on the lug nut as the chrome cap had long since been destroyed and the remaining nut was a non standard size. Next step: they went to drilling out the stud. They started with a very small bit and worked there way up until the remaining stud tore off when they applied the impact wrench. It took them over an hour and a half to do the drilling carefully as not to damage anything. At that point they replaced the stud which took only a few minutes.

Lession #1: Do not let anyone tighten your lug nuts with anything other than a torque wrench set to 90lbs. I plan on presenting my $200 bill to the **** that did this.
Lession #2: Use anti-seize
Lession #3: Replace those crappy two piece lug nuts with one piece.
 

InjectTheVenom

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This is where a good 4-way lug wrench helps. Being able to apply torque with both hands (or both hands on one side and a foot on the other) is much more effective than torque from a ratchet or short breaker bar.

On another note, I broke a key for a locking lug nut once (not on the Viper). Took the car to a tire shop and they used a chisel of some sort to break the lug off. Cost like $20.

Good luck!

Had both of these happen to me, but it was not the key that broke it was part of the lugnut itself in an area that had to absorb the most pressure that sheared off.. TWO times :crazy: Forget the 4 way AND all other tools, I had to take it to a shop where they grinded off the threaded end of an other lug, weld it onto my lug, let it cool and after lots more effort the fricker finally came loose.
But yes, a long metal bar to get more leverage (arm times force, remember our maths class ;) ?) usually "should" do the trick.
 

Viper Specialty

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I have the feeling you are using a 3/8 drive... switch to 1/2 drive, problem with breakage is solved. 3/8 tends to break right around the 125 lb/ft mark, 1/2 is good for double that, easily.

I have the feeling the lug isnt THAT stuck, but the tools are not up to the job, breaking before it frees.

A 24"-36" 1/2 drive breaker bar, a 2-3" 1/2 drive extension, and a 1/2 drive deep socket will do the trick. That combo will easily be able to apply 2-3 times the spec torque of that lug.
 

RoadiJeff

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I've seen several people say to use anti-seize on the studs. The service manual on my wife's GT Cruiser says this:

CAUTION: When installing the tire and wheel assembly, never use oil or grease on studs or nuts.

I just wondered if anti-seize falls into that category. I've only used it on spark plug threads.
 

Qualitywires.com

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most likely you are going to have to break that stud off. It's happened to me and it's not a big deal.

Try torquing it off. It's it's jammed, it's gonna break. No big deal. Just replace the stud with a new one. If you need one, let me know. I have plenty you can have one no cost.
 
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vipertime3

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ab, thanks for the offer. I probably won't have time to get to this until the weekend. I'll post. . .hopefully good news Saturday.

Also, I'd like to get a set of your plug wires for my '02 GTS FE. I think the red are best. I tried the web site and didn't have much luck. Perhaps you can PM me with details. How much trouble to install?
 

cayman

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How are you guys replacing the lug studs? In the manual, it calls for a ball joint removal type tool to press the stud out of the hub. Is there an alternative way if you don't have one of those? Most of what I've read, you never want to pound it out in fear of screwing up the bearing.
 

androbud

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I did this once and ended up having to drill through the wheel stud with progressively larger drill bits. My "Drill Doctor" easily paid for itself during the whole incident. Now I ALWAYS use a torque wrench when putting the lugs back on!
 

kcobean

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How are you guys replacing the lug studs? In the manual, it calls for a ball joint removal type tool to press the stud out of the hub. Is there an alternative way if you don't have one of those? Most of what I've read, you never want to pound it out in fear of screwing up the bearing.

When I had to replace the brakes on my Navigator, the discs were rusted onto the hubs...so badly that in order to get them off I had to lay under the vehicle and hit the inside of the discs with a 4 pound sledge hammer with every last bit of my 260 lbs to get them to pop off the hub. I wasn't sure how to do this initially, so I went to the internet, and it seems this is a pretty common procedure. Don't know if pounding a disc on its' inside interface is any worse than pounding a stud in from the outside.
 
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vipertime3

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. . .I decided to use a friend's air wrench and shazam. . .it came right off. Hopefully the stud isn't weakened too badly.

Thanks for all of the hints/methods/etc. Now on to the real project. . .new adjustable springs/shocks.
 

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