Gen II engine oil consumption

Gene's98GTS

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I had my engine freshened last winter- nothing fancy, T&D roller rockers and chrome-moly pushrods, through the guys at SVS. Since I got it back it is sucking down oil on track days, to the tune of 1 qt every 2 20 min sessions. There was some oil from the PCV vent into the air box so, hooked up an Archer catch can set. Still losing oil with big puffs of blue between high rev shifts. I've been back to SVS 3 times (read hundreds of dollars) with no success. I called West Coast Viper and they said its the PCV valve. You have to plug it. Anybody out there done it? Any info appreciated.

Gene
 

XLR8

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Pluging the PCV valve on a track car is a MUST. If you dont you will **** oil up the valve into the intake. You will need to make a way for the crankcase to vent or you will build crankcase pressure. That will cause oil leaks (also not good). All you need to do is pull the hose off and plug it.
 

ROCKET62

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Is it only during track days? How do you spark plugs look? Are all oil fouled or just one/two? Did they change the valve springs with the rockers? If so - was a valve seal missed or damaged during the process?

Good Luck.
 

V10 ICBM

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A friend of mine has 2 2002 acrs and they both consume a lot of oil - he has gine through 4 litres in a 500km track days. When I I am behind I do notice blue smoke esp on braking and initial throttle out of the hole. I heard it was oil slosh to the front.
So, if you pull the vent tube, where does the oil go? In catch can?
 

KepRght

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my 01 does the same thing after using the gen3 brakes really ******* a flat surface.

funny thing though.... i just did a hill climb event so the oil never got to slosh foward and had NO issue with oil consuption or smoke like I do when on flat or down hill. this made me 99% sure that the issue is from the hose&valve on the front of the valve cover.

question:
the vent to the intake is there for vacume, is there a way to change the vaccume without having oil consuption? i hate to have a new problem by just plugging the hole. the vaccume is there to help with ring bypass.
 
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Gene's98GTS

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I plugged the crankase vent tube from under the manifold (is there supposed to be a PCV valve here?) and its connection to the manifold and ran 20 min on the track. The valve covers are vented to a puke can with -10 braided stainless line from new vent holes drilled in the valve covers with the stock vents in front plugged. The car still used 1/2 quart of oil, but now billows ********* clouds of smoke (fuel) - prompting the corner workers to issue the "meatball" flag to me. I've talked to John at West Coast Viper, and he says I need to vent the crankase to the puke can and clean out the fuel runners of excess oil. The engine builder (opel) left the stock valves and valve guides and put in fresh guide seals. He re-ringed the pistons and honed the cylinders (1/1000). He thinks its oil slosh, with oil pushing up the cylinder walls from the crankase and not from the heads. SVS says put in a dry sump - like money is no object ($8000 just for parts).

I'm open to suggestions. Does the car have a PCV Valve? I'm planning on venting the crankase to the puke can, and run some more laps, let the oil level drop and see how low it goes and if it stablilzes - lower oil volume =less slosh. I already have a baffled oil pan from Parts Rack. Maybe the pan wasn't assembled right on reinstall.

Thanks for any input.
 
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Gene's98GTS

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The car doesn' lose much if any oil around town, but the car mostly runs on the track. The plugs were uniform with no definite oil, just a rusty brown residue, but I've been told to really check the plugs I should reproduce the smoking on the track and shut the car down on the track and then pull the plugs - not really an option. Engine builder put in new springs, bolts, bearings and valve guide seals.
 

Jack B

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The PCV valve sits under the manifold (Gen 2) and ties into the intake, those are the intake entries we are talking about blocking.

1. use heat shrink caps and seal off the intake and the pcv valve.

2. Add an outlet and second puke can to the oil fill hole on the passenger valve cover, Roe sells the cover outlet.

3. You already have the valve cover outlet going to a puke can.

4. Always run a 1/2 qt low if you are going to race.

Did the installer remove the baffle on the underside of the cover, if so that could have been one of the problems. The T&D's increase the oil flow to the valve train and it has to go somewhere, if the baffle was removed a hard sweeper to the right (or hard braking) will throw oil into the airbox. If you removed the line to the airbox that will solve the problem.

If that doesn't clear the problem look elsewhere.
 
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Gene's98GTS

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My car had no PCV valve; I installed one and will vent it to a puke tank. I will check the valve cover baffles and run the oil lower. If the engine still consumes oil, its either heads or rings - but the leak down was OK. Will let you know what happens.

Thanks.

Gene
 

GTS Bruce

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When I broke in my Viper new I followed rpm limits and early oil changes exactly.I don't remember rpm limits off hand which were quite low, but oil and filter were changed at 200,500,and 1000 miles which was the end of break in and get on it time.My car consumes zero oil and blows no smoke on a track under hard braking.Patience is rewarded with a tighter motor probably making a few less HP now but a tighter,longer living,higher HP motor later.I was ANAL about break in. GTS Bruce
 

Jack B

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You might want to rethink installing a pcv valve, since you are not drawing a vacuum it will not work. You have account for its deletion, that is why I suggested the Roe fitting on the passenger valve cover.
 
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