Tom and Vipers
Enthusiast
The part number stamped on the dipstick should be 4763791AC or AD (97 to 02 - NOT 96 GTS)
Thanks
Tom
Thanks
Tom
GTS Dipstick: need Distance from FULL mark to top of dipstick tube
- Thread starter Tom and Vipers
- Start date
GTS Dean
Enthusiast
Here are photos of both 96 and 98 dipsticks, along with their tube attachments at the valve covers.
Dipstick lengths measured from T-handle stop -
'96 PN4763791 AB: 22-5/8
'98 PN 4763791 AC: 20-13/16
T-stop to upper oil level mark -
'96: 20-1/16
'98: 18-3/8
These measurements are accurate to about 1/16"
The 98 tube is shorter than the earlier cars, being 14 -3/8 from top to drilled boss in the block. It is easy to visually identify because of the height of the T-handle and drop-down mounting tab off the valve cover.
People will ask what the red ring under the T-handle on my '96 is about - it is a Dilusi screw-down cap with the threads soldered to the tube. The terrible crank case ventilation of the Gen 2s kept pushing the dipsticks off the stops and caused leakage under heavy track use. Dodge made the dispstick change to increase the friction and hold them in.
Dipstick lengths measured from T-handle stop -
'96 PN4763791 AB: 22-5/8
'98 PN 4763791 AC: 20-13/16
T-stop to upper oil level mark -
'96: 20-1/16
'98: 18-3/8
These measurements are accurate to about 1/16"
The 98 tube is shorter than the earlier cars, being 14 -3/8 from top to drilled boss in the block. It is easy to visually identify because of the height of the T-handle and drop-down mounting tab off the valve cover.
People will ask what the red ring under the T-handle on my '96 is about - it is a Dilusi screw-down cap with the threads soldered to the tube. The terrible crank case ventilation of the Gen 2s kept pushing the dipsticks off the stops and caused leakage under heavy track use. Dodge made the dispstick change to increase the friction and hold them in.
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Tom and Vipers
Enthusiast
THANK YOU SO MUCH for the pics and measurements. Unfortunately, (LOL) you've now opened what I feared would become a Can of Worms. I guess the "long story" needs told:
Original owner installed the late Gen 2 oil pan on the 1996 GTS and scribed a new FULL mark on the dipstick which is 1-1/4" LOWER than the FULL mark.
NOTE: People keep saying the oil level does not change with the late Gen 2 pan and that the OE dipstick is thus correct.
Did they determine a "new" FULL mark based on putting the correct amount of oil in and scribing there?
How much oil did they put in it? 8, 8.5, 10, 10.5 quarts?
Not sure where the "T-handle stop" is - hopefully that stop contacts the top of the dipstick tube.
I have completely different measurements:
NOTE: My 1996 GTS has a 5245899 Gen 1 RT/10 1996 ONLY dipstick AND the short tube (see pic)
I just took my Gen 1 5245899 measurements:
Top of dipstick tube to dipstick Fill Mark = ~19-5/16"
Top of dipstick tube to dipstick new scribed Fill Mark = ~20-9/16"
Measurements:
*) 0.488" distance from the open bottom end of the "dipstick cup" to top of the cup which contacts the dipstick tube.
*) 18-13/16" distance from cup open end to FULL
*) 18.812 + 0.488 = 19.300 = circa. 19-5/16" distance from top of dipstick tube to FULL mark
17/32" distance from FULL mark to ADD mark
3/4" distance from ADD mark to Scribed mark - which is the new FULL mark AFTER the late Gen 2 oil pan upgrade done.
Dipstick Scribed Full Mark is ~1-1/4" lower than FULL mark:
Scribed Mark to Top of Tube = 19-5/16 + 1-1/4 = 20-9/16"
Here's a pic of the '899 dipstick: note the twisted end:
The length to FULL (19-5/16) is mid-way between the two measurements ('96: 20-1/16; '98: 18-3/8) you took (early and late GTS). Since my dipstick is RT/10, and unique to 1996, could there be another tube length in play?
Original owner installed the late Gen 2 oil pan on the 1996 GTS and scribed a new FULL mark on the dipstick which is 1-1/4" LOWER than the FULL mark.
NOTE: People keep saying the oil level does not change with the late Gen 2 pan and that the OE dipstick is thus correct.
Did they determine a "new" FULL mark based on putting the correct amount of oil in and scribing there?
How much oil did they put in it? 8, 8.5, 10, 10.5 quarts?
Measurements:
Not sure where the "T-handle stop" is - hopefully that stop contacts the top of the dipstick tube.
I have completely different measurements:
NOTE: My 1996 GTS has a 5245899 Gen 1 RT/10 1996 ONLY dipstick AND the short tube (see pic)
I just took my Gen 1 5245899 measurements:
Top of dipstick tube to dipstick Fill Mark = ~19-5/16"
Top of dipstick tube to dipstick new scribed Fill Mark = ~20-9/16"
Measurements:
*) 0.488" distance from the open bottom end of the "dipstick cup" to top of the cup which contacts the dipstick tube.
*) 18-13/16" distance from cup open end to FULL
*) 18.812 + 0.488 = 19.300 = circa. 19-5/16" distance from top of dipstick tube to FULL mark
17/32" distance from FULL mark to ADD mark
The Scribed Mark:
3/4" distance from ADD mark to Scribed mark - which is the new FULL mark AFTER the late Gen 2 oil pan upgrade done.
Dipstick Scribed Full Mark is ~1-1/4" lower than FULL mark:
Scribed Mark to Top of Tube = 19-5/16 + 1-1/4 = 20-9/16"
Here's a pic of the '899 dipstick: note the twisted end:
5245899:
What is this??? ONLY 1996 RT/10 (!) Did this 1996 GTS come from factory with the 899 or did someone swap out the OE dipstick? Did it have something to do with the fancy aftermarket chrome T-handle install?The length to FULL (19-5/16) is mid-way between the two measurements ('96: 20-1/16; '98: 18-3/8) you took (early and late GTS). Since my dipstick is RT/10, and unique to 1996, could there be another tube length in play?
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GTS Dean
Enthusiast
Tom, the tube and bracket you have are correct for your '96 GTS. If you pull the stick, the tube should stick past the tab by about 3/4". If that checks out, then all you need to do is measure down 20-1/8 from the top of your cup and scribe a "MAX" mark on the smooth side of your dipstick. Measure the "OK" range on the other side, then transfer the distance to "ADD" around to the smooth side below your new "MAX" mark.
These two new scribe lines are all you need to be concerned with. Pull the MGW handle off, flip it 180* and reinstall. This way, it will come out of the tube with only your two new marks facing up. Fill the sump to the new "MAX" mark. End of story - all good from now-on.
These two new scribe lines are all you need to be concerned with. Pull the MGW handle off, flip it 180* and reinstall. This way, it will come out of the tube with only your two new marks facing up. Fill the sump to the new "MAX" mark. End of story - all good from now-on.
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Tom and Vipers
Enthusiast
Flipping the stick, great idea, clearly easiest fix. Mine is twisted at the very end, could hammer that flat if required.
(or find a doner and TIG an extension on the top end where no one would notice)
If I want to get a correct stick, do they all have the "snap-can" on them?
From the parts manuals:
Stick:
1996: 52 45 899 (this is the one I have and is wrong)
1997: 47 63 791
1998: 47 63 791AC
1999: 47 63 791AD
The tube changed in 1998 to the final #: 47 63 792AC
So I need the stick from 96 or 97. Since the 96# is wrong, that leaves the 98: 47 63 791
OR
Get a stick & tube from a 98 to 02.
QUESTION: What is the total oil capacity including filter? 10 or 10.5 quarts?
(or find a doner and TIG an extension on the top end where no one would notice)
If I want to get a correct stick, do they all have the "snap-can" on them?
From the parts manuals:
Stick:
1996: 52 45 899 (this is the one I have and is wrong)
1997: 47 63 791
1998: 47 63 791AC
1999: 47 63 791AD
The tube changed in 1998 to the final #: 47 63 792AC
So I need the stick from 96 or 97. Since the 96# is wrong, that leaves the 98: 47 63 791
OR
Get a stick & tube from a 98 to 02.
QUESTION: What is the total oil capacity including filter? 10 or 10.5 quarts?
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GTS Dean
Enthusiast
You have a dipstick in the engine. If it is long enough for both marks and another 1.5+ inches, just call it good. Mark yours to match my 96 couple's and just pour in 8 qt of fresh oil. It should be very close to the ADD mark. Pour another qt in and see if it is half way. Use the last quart to confirm full +/-. You can look for the correct stick at your leisure. As I dimly recall, mine had the cup too.
GTS Dean
Enthusiast
I just looked closely and mine does not have the bead at the top of the tube. It was smooth before brazing on the threads. There was a PN stamp, but only on the inboard side of the tab - the outboard side is unmarked in any way. My pocket tape measure fit in the tight confines, but was too limber to hold at the block boss. I grabbed an aluminum filler rod and transferred the following marks: tube length to block boss = 17-7/8"; tube top to some inner surface of the pan (pic #2): 22-1/2". That's 1/8" less than my dipstick to the screw cap.
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Tom and Vipers
Enthusiast
To bead, or not to bead... that is the question.... (arf arf)
The plot thickens.
First, I was wondering what the fancy red "can" was on yours - had no idea of the tube thread. NOTE: I can't believe the rib design would blow out. Mine is so tight, I sometimes have to reposition my hand on the handle to get enough force to unsnap and pull it out.
I have all the tube #'s for all Gen 2 from the parts pdf files:
5245085: 92-95
5245898: 96
4763792: 97
4763792AC: 98-02
Of course mine has 4763792AB and has the rib and the matching dipstick cup that snaps over it.
and of course, yours has a # that is completely different. NOTE: did you check the other side of your tab? that is where mine is stamped in very tall numbers. ALSO, I looked at my front pic and there may be a # under the grime - I will check... LOL, I have a different #: 112448
RE: Superseded: if so, could they have also superseded the dipstick, both to a different design that would have to be used together (like a new, no rib design?)
Somewhere I believe you posted a pic of early and late dipsticks laying side by side. and it looks like the difference in length is about the same as the distance from my scribed mark and the FULL mark (1.25" in my case)
I have to take that MGW handle off and see how much dipstick is engaging that aftermarket handle.
The plot thickens.
First, I was wondering what the fancy red "can" was on yours - had no idea of the tube thread. NOTE: I can't believe the rib design would blow out. Mine is so tight, I sometimes have to reposition my hand on the handle to get enough force to unsnap and pull it out.
I have all the tube #'s for all Gen 2 from the parts pdf files:
5245085: 92-95
5245898: 96
4763792: 97
4763792AC: 98-02
Of course mine has 4763792AB and has the rib and the matching dipstick cup that snaps over it.
and of course, yours has a # that is completely different. NOTE: did you check the other side of your tab? that is where mine is stamped in very tall numbers. ALSO, I looked at my front pic and there may be a # under the grime - I will check... LOL, I have a different #: 112448
RE: Superseded: if so, could they have also superseded the dipstick, both to a different design that would have to be used together (like a new, no rib design?)
Somewhere I believe you posted a pic of early and late dipsticks laying side by side. and it looks like the difference in length is about the same as the distance from my scribed mark and the FULL mark (1.25" in my case)
I have to take that MGW handle off and see how much dipstick is engaging that aftermarket handle.
Goggles Pizano
Enthusiast
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2009
- Posts
- 282
- Reaction score
- 64
Goggles Pizano
Enthusiast
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2009
- Posts
- 282
- Reaction score
- 64
Dipsticks and how about we switch to lugnuts now.
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Rosco's advice on payroll deductions
Did you know that stupidity can be held out of your paycheck? It can, according to Rosco in the 4th season Dukes of Hazzard episode, "The Fugitive." This is ...
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Tom and Vipers
Enthusiast
UPDATE: I found NOS 4763791AB which is the correct stick for the ...2AB tube. The cup is red. Mine is black. I'll post a pic when I get it.
