Help! Did my engine just blow?

Andrew/USPWR

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My love hate relationship with my Viper just just pegged out to the hate side. 15min. ago this post was reading “I’m out” selling this Viper and buying an...........................?????????????????????????????????
That when I got a beer and starting to come to my senses.

Just got my Viper home after 2 months of summer camp with it’s Viper tech. Going over everything and fixing (multiple times) broken and wore parts. One of them being a nasty wheel hop/shifter spasms. To try and cure it we replaced, struts, strings, motor mounts, transmission mounts, nut and bolted the whole car and anything else we could think of. Didn't cure the wheel hope, but no big deal, I track the car, I don’t use it for the 1/4 mile numbers. Today I’m driving to my shop to change out my track wheels and tires for my street set. It’s raining and so just before I get to my shop I get to a clear road and from a roll I get on it to see for the first time if the wheel hope is better worse or the some. It’s worse. O well, I new it wasn’t cured so I head into my shop. When I get out, to open the overhead garage door, I notice what I think is a trail of gas droplets following behind my car. I pull it into the garage and find oil leaking from the front. Jacked it up and found oil all over and around the front right hoses, brake duct, deflectors etc. It’s not leaking but I assuming it will start again when the engine is running. Anybody got an idea of what could of happened? I’ve got to fix it because I can’t think of a replacement.
 

Chuck 98 RT/10

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If you didn't lose any power when you got on it, then I doubt you did any internal damage. Maybe a blown hose to the cooler. You won't know until you examine. Clean the motor up real good, clean the garage floor, top off the oil, run it and get down there and find the leak.
 
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Andrew/USPWR

Andrew/USPWR

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It seems like it coming from a hose but I didn't know motor oil was running through those hoses. I try your test chuck, thanks. Do you think I'll have to pull the nose off?
 
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Andrew/USPWR

Andrew/USPWR

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It's one of the steel braided hoses. The forward one, going to the oil filter where the two hoses come together and then go forward. It’s leaking like crazy.

Is this something a “want-a-be” Viper tech can do, or do I need to take it into Dodge? Also, is this a 35k miles “should be” replacement item or just a ticking bomb that can happen at any time? It seem like maybe the two hoses touching wore the one through or the heat did.

This was not my way of saving gas.
 

vipeuup

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Andrew,

Make sure all of those hoses are securely on. Vipers arent really smooth running cars. The vibration and heat can take a toll on hoses. No worries, your snake is fine. Your going through your up and downs. Youll get over it. ;)
 

Qualitywires.com

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I would say it's an easy job to fix...but I personally don't think you need a Viper tech to fix the hose issue. It's a simple job, but you're going to have to take the front fascia off and it's going to be a tight squeeze...but nothing a regular mechanic with a lift couldn't do.
 

DEVILDOG

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After you change out the oil line make sure you run the car and check for leaks at the fittings BEFORE you put the fascia back on.
 

orlandov10

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How much oil did you lose? make sure you listen for any rod knocks, was your oil pressure low?
 
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Andrew/USPWR

Andrew/USPWR

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Thanks for all the input and encouragement. I’ve got the hoses ordered and should be learner how to change them out in a few days.

I can’t believe I have to pull the noise piece off. I just put new plastic push tabs in an hour before for leak. I’ll keep you posted on this adventure.

TOOOFST, I’ve been through many different tires. I’m not sure it’s even wheel hop. The gear shifter goes crazy, smacking left and right violently when ever I light them up. If I have someone in the car with me, they are like “Holy Shiiiiiiiiiiiit” they think the car is going to come apart. I’ve made many post about it and had the best of viper tech look at it and work on it to no avail. I’ve felt wheel hop and the car isn’t jumping up and down when it does it, and it will only do it if the front wheels are pointed straight. As soon as I turn the wheel left or right, the tires smoke and the shifter calms down. I’ve tried it on dry and wet slick surface. It’s a little embarrassing when I do take it to the drag, because I’ll only do a quick 1-2 second burnout and the people just want to see more. My times are respectful though. I’m just going to drive the car the way I like too and wait for what ever it is to break. ViperSpeed put in a Quaife differential and GKN half shafts when I bought the car in 2003, along with Baer 6 pistons up front and the stock front brakes and rotors in the back. I’ve even talked with Taylor Racing about their Quaife being the problem, they assure me it couldn't be. Many people with years of Viper experience have told me they’ve seen some Viper do that while others with the same set up not. It’s all part of our love hate relationship I guess.
 

Blue Pilot

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Andrew, if you need a hand, let me know. I am off wed. and fri. this week, along with the weekend of course. I have no wheel hop at all and if you want to look over my car and drive it you are welcome to for comparison.

Hopefully you will get it fixed before the Mopar show at Moroso on Sunday. (if you were planning on going)
 
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Andrew/USPWR

Andrew/USPWR

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Mopar show at Moroso on Sunday
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Didn't know about the show, would love to go though.

Thanks for the offer to help. I don't know when I'll change them out but PM me your cell number and I'll give you a call when I do. Don't know if I'll need the help but would love the company and the coaching. Between my car and Jerry's, I'm starting to know my way around these car pretty good.
 

Jack B

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I don't know if someone has already mentioned it, but, you just described the classic broken motor mount. It is hard to physically detect in some cases. That could also explain the damaged hose.
 

Larry Macedo

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We've witnessed the oil filter adaptor leak due to cracking where the steel fitting meets the aluminum. Additionally, if the hose is leaking where it meets the frame, I would check the ground strap to ensure it's tight, Andrew.
 
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Andrew/USPWR

Andrew/USPWR

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Motor mounts were changed last month Jack B. I've tried to change anything and everthing that could related to the cause.

Thanks Larry, I checked the ground and its tight. I can feel the steel braids are broken were the two hoses touch and that looks to be were the oil is leaking from. I'm going to change out both hoses. Anything else I should do or change while I'm at it?
 

LETHAL GTS

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Andrew, I've read the above posts. I don't see anything about shocks. Has anyone done any work to the suspension? If you have tried everything else, why don't you stiffen the damping on the rear shocks. Is your GTS an ACR? If it is, adjusting your damping is only a few clicks away. If not you need to disassemble the coil overs and adjust. The factory settings on the basic GTS is set at the softest settings front and rear. I have adjusted mine when I installed my Eibachs. PM me if you have any questions and I'll try to help.
 
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Andrew/USPWR

Andrew/USPWR

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Lethal GTS, My car is a none ACR and I changed out all struts and shicks 2 weeks ago. They were adjusted like one turn from the tightest.
 

Bo knows

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Andrew,

I had a bad wheel hop problem also. I got rid of about 75 percent of it by taking the rear shocks apart and adjusting them to the stiffest possible setting. I can now do burn outs without the embarrassing wheel hop. Try it, I'm sure it will help!

Bo knows
 

Bo knows

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The rear wheels hopped so bad it also shook the shifter. If your not sure the wheels are hopping just have someone watch them when you do a burn out. It will be very obvious. If your shocks are just adjusted to a stiff setting and you still get wheel hop adjust them to the stiffest setting. Tthe shock & spring assembly have to come off the car and the spring has to be compressed in a spring compressor to get the shock out so you can adjust it. I had wheel hop really bad and tried a few other cures, nothing helped until I set the shocks to the stiffest position. Also as someone metioned in a previous post make sure you check all bolts in the rear suspension. Don't just look at them, put a wrench on them & give them a twist. Don't give up on this problem. It can be fixed and your car will be much more enjoyable to drive.

Bo knows

















Bo knows
 
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Andrew/USPWR

Andrew/USPWR

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Bo, although I track my car a dozen times a year, I really enjoy my Sunday cruises. How stiff is stiffest?
 

LETHAL GTS

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Just my $.02 here.
The stock shocks are three full turns open to close. Clockwise is closed (if you look carefully at the shock it shows a + and a -). So if three turns is closed, I have my front set at 1/2 turn open, my back are set at 1 1/2 turns open. This setting is combined with Eibach springs mind you. So you may want to set yours acordingly. My springs being stiffer demanded a stiffer damping setting so that I didn't get the bouncing that some people here often complain about. That's also why I won't ever buy new shocks without damping adjustments like the ones [******] is selling for the Gen 2's. Sounds to me if you've checked everything out, this might just be the problem.

BTW when you get wheel hop in these things, ya your tranny starts to dance.

I still get wheel hop when:
1. tire pressure is not set above 30psi.
2. when it gets very cold outside.
 
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Andrew/USPWR

Andrew/USPWR

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I have a call into Tom Session, I'm not sure how many turns he backed off on the shocks. He knows how I drive the car and what I use it for. I don't think their as stiff as possible though, Maybe it's worth a try just to see if that would cure the hop. Thanks

Lethal, Tom told me the Eibach springs made a big difference on drivability and comfort, but they lowered the car 3/4 of an inch. What are your thoughts and are you scraping the front end a lot more?
 

Bo knows

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Andrew,

The suspension will certainly feel stiffer when have the shocks adjusted to the stiffest position but I don't think it will bother your sunday drives at all. Usually most people don't drive Vipers on roads that are very bumpy or in disrepair. Also, it's a sports car with a sport suspension. It's supposed to ride rough. So tighten up those shocks & start doing some burnouts !!

Bo
 
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Andrew/USPWR

Andrew/USPWR

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start doing some burnouts !!
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Words to live by.
Thanks Bo, I think I'll try that.
 

CAS

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Could the suspension possibly be binding on compression? That may induce wheel hop and would be impossible to detect while the car is completely at rest. I would try to make sure you have an appropriate amount of movement at the shock mounting points, swaybars, etc.
 

LETHAL GTS

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I have a call into Tom Session, I'm not sure how many turns he backed off on the shocks. He knows how I drive the car and what I use it for. I don't think their as stiff as possible though, Maybe it's worth a try just to see if that would cure the hop. Thanks

Lethal, Tom told me the Eibach springs made a big difference on drivability and comfort, but they lowered the car 3/4 of an inch. What are your thoughts and are you scraping the front end a lot more?

Tom is a great guy, I've met him a couple times at Viper Days events.
My Eibachs dropped mine over an inch. I love the way it looks now and yes you have to be a little more careful than before because of the height.
I personally wouldn't change it back and I love the stiffer race car feel. I can tell you that before I dropped my car I started to feel the car lift slightly at about 165mph now I don't get that feeling even at 180mph.

Could the suspension possibly be binding on compression? That may induce wheel hop and would be impossible to detect while the car is completely at rest. I would try to make sure you have an appropriate amount of movement at the shock mounting points, swaybars, etc.

Hey Clint hows the weather down there :D
Andrew, Clint makes a good point here. If you are planning on changing your damping anyway. You might want to check this out.
 
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