HHI VIPER
Viper Owner

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Everyone has a different opinion on this topic and everyone does it differently. Here's my take and the path I went down. What year Viper? Non-ABS years may want to do a brake upgrade as soon as possible especially if you plan to do a lot of track time. New tires will give you the most bang for the buck if you currently have older, harder tires. I had originals on my 2002 and a new set of Michelin PS2's made it feel like a completely different car; both in terms of ride and handling/acceleration. Beyond that, you might want to consider new spark plugs and wires depending on the mileage (it's a cheap upgrade). Most people's first major upgrade is exhaust both for sound and performance gains. You can do headers, high flow cats, and a cat back system but you don't have to do them all at once. You could expect about 30-40 rwhp and torque increase with a full exhaust upgrade depending on what you do and brands, etc.
Do a search on any of the topics I recommended, that should start you out nicely. Don't hesitate to ask questions here either, there's a TON of first hand experience on this board. To get to the numbers you mention (550 rwhp) you're going to have to do a lot of work and a lot of tuning... it's not a quick simple thing to do. Most likely you'll need it tuned by a professional shop and many more upgrades than I mentioned.
That's my 2 cents anyway.
You made an excellent choice in the Viper, in my opinion the best car you can buy if you plan to do a lot of track time. Welcome to the club too!
What you want depends on how much money you wish to spend. It also depends on which year Viper you have.
My first upgrade would be HiFlow Cats and Cat back to give the V10 the chance to "rumble" and remove cabin heat. Then I would Roe supercharge with the slowest 5# pulley to get that hp you want and TONS of torque. If you've got a 96-99 GTS I'd go with more boost (and more hp). If you've got a Gen 3 then your superchargeryou choose (only 1) is a Paxton (stock torque but good hp).
Some people prefer normally aspirated although that way costs more money. N/A would need heads, exhaust, headers, rockers, air intake, cam, pistons, injectors, fuel/timing computer (or re-flash), etc.
Ted
That kind of power is pretty easy to make these days.
The question is ask is HOW much power do you want to make in the end? And how do you plan on making it? Meaning, NA, TT, Nitrous, etc.
Stock Gen II car: 405 RWHP, 440 ft/lbs
Add filters & smooth tubes: $100-$200, 415 RWHP, 445 ft/lbs
Add catback 3" exhaust: $600 - $1500, 420 RWHP, 450 ft/lbs
Add high-flow 3" cats: $350 - $600, 425 RWHP, 455 ft/lbs
Add AL flywheel: $500, no dyno-visible gains but substantial power increase in 1st & 2nd gear.
Add headers: $1500 - $3200, 445 RWHP (435 RWHP for '00+ cars), 485 ft/lbs
Add T&D roller rockers: $1200, 460 RWHP (450 for '00+ cars, duration helps especially here), 490 ft/lbs
Add tuner heads: $3500 - $5500 (and up), 490 - 520 RWHP, 500 - 530 ft/lbs
Add ported / honed intake: $800+, 500 - 540 RWHP, 500-530 ft/lbs
Great info. Does the stock drive line handle this or are better Half shafts, U joints etc needed?
Stock is fine even up to a mild S/C package. But you can always spend more...
What S/C and how much boost do you think without going to extremes? Thinking about B&B exhaust or...??? With high flow cats. Thanks for your input!!!!
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There are varying opinions on what "safe" is. Some will brag that their 900hp TT car is running all stock drive train and has 25K miles on it.
Good for them.
To get "normal" life out of the drive train - defined as 100K+ miles - you might want to stick in the 600 to 700 hp range if you want your parts to last a really long time.
If you drag race your stuff will break much faster due to shock loads at launch.
You can always spend more is for sure...
I have to say the Viper is a Performance guys dream. Such a fantastic platform to build from.
When I did my Vette I had do everything....just broke too easy...even had a firm, Van Steel make custom u joint straps cnc'd from one piece. Drill and tap new holes for larger bolts in the yoke... Had a half shaft break loose, come up through the floor and break the battery. In Vettes thats just behind the divers seat...not pretty.
Everyone has a different opinion on this topic and everyone does it differently. Here's my take and the path I went down. What year Viper? Non-ABS years may want to do a brake upgrade as soon as possible especially if you plan to do a lot of track time. New tires will give you the most bang for the buck if you currently have older, harder tires. I had originals on my 2002 and a new set of Michelin PS2's made it feel like a completely different car; both in terms of ride and handling/acceleration. Beyond that, you might want to consider new spark plugs and wires depending on the mileage (it's a cheap upgrade). Most people's first major upgrade is exhaust both for sound and performance gains. You can do headers, high flow cats, and a cat back system but you don't have to do them all at once. You could expect about 30-40 rwhp and torque increase with a full exhaust upgrade depending on what you do and brands, etc.
Do a search on any of the topics I recommended, that should start you out nicely. Don't hesitate to ask questions here either, there's a TON of first hand experience on this board. To get to the numbers you mention (550 rwhp) you're going to have to do a lot of work and a lot of tuning... it's not a quick simple thing to do. Most likely you'll need it tuned by a professional shop and many more upgrades than I mentioned.
That's my 2 cents anyway.
You made an excellent choice in the Viper, in my opinion the best car you can buy if you plan to do a lot of track time. Welcome to the club too!
If you've got a 96 - 99 Gen 2 engine you could instal a Roe sc with water/**** and 10# boost. Cost under $10,000 if you do it yourself and make 650rwhp even if everything else remains stock. Nitrous Oxide would make any Viper hp big numbers or break the engine (800rwhp). If you've got a 2000 or up you shouldn't run more than 6# boost - maybe 8 with water/****. That'll only run less than 600rwhp, but will be reliable. The Roe is only available for Gen 1 and 2 cars at this time. Gen 3's the Paxton is the only option, although since they don't increase the power much at lower rpms, they are safer for the engine.
Ted
Yes, forgot to mention all my opinions are based on going the naturally aspirated route... I'm not the blower/tt type.