How to build a TWIN TURBO COLD SIDE

GTS-R 001

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This post started off as a response post over at the other site after a few immature individuals tried one of their daily attacks,

I decided that even though i spent the effort to thwart an attack with this info, the members on this site actually appreciate seeing build info and I may get some constructive comments and info along the way.

Here Goes

Well guys here we go,

How to fab up a cold side to the intake 101:

This is how you do it so you do not waste a ton of money welding everything every step of the way.

First, I decided to go with a 2.5 inch set of mandrel bent polished aluminum tubes, I then traced a stock throttle body outline onto a piece of .25 inch thick aluminum plate., I then machined out a set of 2.5 inch diameter holes

Intake_tube_2_5.jpg


Next, I fabricated the portion the silicone will couple to, I took a piece of Aluminum tube and cut it to length, then I ovalized it and then ran a bead on it. I then checked to make sure that the first piece I made fit to it as these would eventually be welded together and then I checked to make sure that 2 aluminum 2.5 inch tubes would fit not only into the holes but would look aesthetically pleasing.

Test_fit_tubes_fit_and_TB_coupler_flange.jpg
 
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GTS-R 001

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Next came attaching to the throttle body the pieces that I just made and then picking how I wanted the intake runners to look, I took many sets of mandrel bent aluminum tubes and attached them and then again checked the aesthetics as well as the functionality, trying to keep bends to a minimum and runner length to the shortest possible while still making it look good

Here is one look I experimented with in 2.5 inch OD



and another



and another



and another



and another



and another

 
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GTS-R 001

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Once I had decided what I liked the look of I then decided on where to place the Blow off valves, which are TIAL Q BOV's, made here, bought here, etc.

I decided to line them up with the banks of the cylinder heads as I figured that that would be the best for symmetry and balance and then if someone did look at the system from dead on front then it would all look proper no matter how big of valve covers etc.

Instead of welding the BOV flanges on RIGHT AWAY as others may do, I fabricated some extensions (here, not in China) that slipped into the BOV flange and also snugly fit into the hole I machined into the tube, this allowed me to move the BOV and make sure I picked the proper angle and all before I commit to jigging and welding.

just click on the photo to play the video

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GTS-R 001

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I then started to think that I might as well make these tubes as impressive looking as possible, as once the system is installed there is not much else to look at on the car that says "HEY , I'M A TURBO VIPER"

So I ordered up some 2.75 inch mandrel tubes, from a USA vendor and I may add that all this is done on MY DIME, I did not get paid in advance to experiment with someone else's money here...

I laid the 2.75 inch next to the 2.5 inch tubes and thought, YUP!

 
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GTS-R 001

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Next came going back to square one and doing everything again with the 2.75 inch mandrel bent Tubes, these are bigger than the 2.5 so the entire throttle body couple flange item is now into the bin and the 2.75 inch tubes are snugged into the silicone coupler and now I go back to picking lengths and angles again





Once I finalized, again how i liked the new larger beefier tubes, I then once again machined the BOV holes, attached the BOVS the same way and took pics.

At the same time I decided to make the engine look better and had the manifold painted and added a nice polished throttle body to see how it would look

and this is how it turned out, and yes the tubes all need to be welded together now as it is a PROGRESS pic



Sorry to disappoint, no Chinese parts used, no Chinese people were hurt or abused in anyway on the making of this turbo system or it's parts.

All my turbo systems are 100% fabricated in the USA , I use the highest quality triple ceramic ball bearing billet wheel OIL LESS turbos that i can get from COMP TURBO and I use only TIAL BOVS and Waste Gates, SCT tuners, etc etc etc.

Thank you for your time...
 

ssjcreeper

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Steve, any thoughts about fabricating reasonably priced intake tubes for the Gen III N/A crowd?
 

ssjcreeper

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Exactly. I've got the K&N now, but I don't care for the black plastic look. A reasonably priced alternative with metal tubing and accompanying silicone, clamps, and filters that rests within the stock airbox.
 
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tattooed

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Thanks for the write-up and pics! Fascinating stuff!!! :)

Too bad there are so many jackasses on the other site. I almost completely gave up posting and reading there a long time ago. This is definitely the place to be for Vipers. :)
 

Nine Ball

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I dig these posts Steve, thanks for sharing them. Haters gonna hate. I dig the look of that 2.75 intake setup.

Tony
 

DMan

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Very cool, as always, thnx for sharing, Steve. I only see one problem with your operation .. It's not in Maryland. LOL

Why are all the coolest vendors so friggin far from me. Maryland a nice place, I swear.

A drive in/drive out turn key turbo setup with 750rwhp (what is that, like 875 at the flywheel?) for under $12 grand. Makes me want to buy my gen3 back and move to NorCal.

Dave.
 
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Sonoman

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Exactly. I've got the K&N now, but I don't care for the black plastic look. A reasonably priced alternative with metal tubing and accompanying silicone, clamps, and filters that rests within the stock airbox.

I'd be in for one of these, too. And Steve is the closest fellow Viper owner to my house! :headbang:
 
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GTS-R 001

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Intake looks good Steve. How are you handling IACV, IAT, and CCV?



We are welding on the 3/4 OD **** for the IAT (it will locate so that the stock hose fits up)
The CCV is having a welded on **** as well

The IAT sensor which normally attaches to the factory rubber coupler will attach with a press in grommet just like it presently does in the K&N.

Thanks for the Questions
 
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GTS-R 001

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What do you get for the $400.

The $400 will get you the intake and the filters and use the stock coupler.

There will be another version that includes a large silicone coupler and a set of T bolt clamps, this version will cost an additional $49

Thanks
 

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