How To: Door Stanchion Removal (pictures)

DrTaco

Viper Owner
Joined
Jul 30, 2009
Posts
512
Reaction score
0
Location
Oak Lawn, Illinois
Hey all,

Common problem for the GEN 2s and one of my winter projects I had to get done. Didn't see a how-to anywhere, so decided to knock one out. Hope it helps...

Mark


By now you've realized that the weather stripping around your stanchion is cracked or missing, and figured out that you need to replace the entire stanchion :crazy2: in order to fix it. No biggie, this walkthrough will have your Viper back to showroom condition in no time at all.

Level of Difficulty: EASY
*Time Needed: About 20-30min
*This how-to will focus on the driver's side. But, the passenger side will be the same.
*I did NOT remove the inner door panel trim. It is not neccessary to complete this project. However, if your door panel seems very brittle, or you are concerned about scratches/nicks, removing it only takes a few minutes and is very easy to do.


The Problem: Cracked/missing weatherstripping...
You must be registered for see images attach


TOOLS NEEDED: *Note, these are what I found useful. You may need more, less or different tools (I will touch on that later)
You must be registered for see images attach


The First step is to remove the THREE screws holding the inner trim panel to the stanchion (phillips head). Be aware, the screw right above the door release can fall through the trim and POSSIBLY down into the door. Make a special effort to hold onto the screw as it loosens up, just in case
You must be registered for see images attach


After removing the screws, press DOWN on the top of the inner trim panel and FORWARDS (towards the front of the Viper) to remove the trim panel from the stanchion. It's going to be tight and annoying. TAKE YOUR TIME. I used a body trim removal tool to work around the trim panel until I felt it release.
You must be registered for see images attach


After you remove the trim panel it will still be attached by the door release metal cable, this is what it will look like (from the driver's seat)
You must be registered for see images attach


You will next simply remove the release cable end from the trim panel door release handle (think of it as a ball and socket, you're just going to use your fingers to remove the BALL from the SOCKET
You must be registered for see images attach


Next, you're going to see the door latch release solenoid wiring connector. In English, you're gonna see some wires leading a black box. The black box is held on by a push-pin looking screw. Remove the push pin looking screw with your fingers/ trim removal tool. Pull the box from the socket and push the (now loose) black box to the side.
You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach


You will now be looking at a big, black, plastic nut holding the outer door handle to the stanchion. Time to remove it. You can either use a needle nose pliers OR a 15/16 deep well socket. Once the nut has ben removed, reach around the door and take off the door handle. You will now be left with a big hole and a wide open stanchion
You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach


Now, remove the final screw near the top of the stanchion that is holding it to the door.
You must be registered for see images attach


Now, you can remove the stanchion from the door by pulling up and wiggling it until it slides out. NOTE: As seen in the picture, yours may have some kinda 3M tape on it as well. You must be very careful that you do not rip the outer run weatherstripping as you are pulling the stanchion up and out. Use your fingers or a PLASTIC putty knife and go slow. You will know exactly what to do when you get to this point.
You must be registered for see images attach


Note, the outer run weatherstripping that the 3M tape was stuck to. I had to peel it forward slightly to release all the 3M tape and then peel it back against the painted portion of the car.
You must be registered for see images attach


FINAL THOUGHTS
1)You are now ready to reinstal your new stanchion, simply reverse the above steps. Before reinstalling you must make sure that the door stop is all the way in its DOWN position, or else the window will rip your new seal (The "door stop" is held onto the metal slider by the black Torx head screw)
2)Once you have finished reinstalling your new stanchion raise your window SLOWLY, checking for any fitment or blockage issues.
3)Consider storing your vehicle with your windows rolled down just a bit whenever possible to relax the seals and extend the life of your weatherstripping.

Well, that's all folks. Hope it helped...shoot me a PM with any questions. :D
 
Last edited:

viper GTS-R

Enthusiast
Joined
May 24, 2001
Posts
2,871
Reaction score
0
Location
Fords, NJ
Very cool, and nicely detailed! Gotta say that whole section is my favorite part of the car. Love those door handles!

Question, whats the inner part of the door look like? Sounds silly but I've never seen how everything is connected.

--RS
 

troublemaker

Enthusiast
Joined
Mar 27, 2010
Posts
487
Reaction score
0
Location
The land of two incarcerated Governors
I have to take a ride up to check that car out sometime. I purchased a 96 that I'm just getting familiar with and would like to look at another to compare, most of of family besides me is up in the Mt. greenwood are so I am up there quite often. Nice write up, it's honestly a part of the car I have never paid attention to. Maybe it's time go take a look while is slumbering for the winter.
 
OP
OP
D

DrTaco

Viper Owner
Joined
Jul 30, 2009
Posts
512
Reaction score
0
Location
Oak Lawn, Illinois
Hey hey, thanks all. Hope it will help others in the future.

Viper GTS-R: Sorry, I dont have any pics of inside of the door. You mean behind the interior door panel, right? Theres not much there to see. Just the frame all wrapped in plastic if I remember right. Of course the window is back there and all. The door panel is held on by a few screws and push pins.


Troublemaker: Sure, dude. Anytime you want, just shoot me a PM someday and we'll make it happen. I work midnights so my schedule is wide open in the morning and evening hours.

Can you get replacement weatherstripping or do you have to replace the whole plastic surround?
Jance, the weatherstripping that runs vertically up the window is attached to the stanchion (aka: what Im sure you mean by plastic surround). The WHOLE stanchion must be replaced. It is possible to glue the weatherstripping back into place for an extended fix, though.
 

96GTS

Enthusiast
Joined
Apr 2, 2005
Posts
1,038
Reaction score
0
Location
Dyess AFB, TX
A new stanchion will run over $300, so just a heads up. The whole process took me less than 20 minutes with basic tools and looks MUCH better.
 

Sybil TF

Enthusiast
Joined
May 20, 2012
Posts
1,047
Reaction score
1
Isn't drinking beer and working on a car an accident waiting to happen?:smirk:
 
OP
OP
D

DrTaco

Viper Owner
Joined
Jul 30, 2009
Posts
512
Reaction score
0
Location
Oak Lawn, Illinois
Nah, it was a light beer for this project. The Capt Select and coke comes before and during putting my cargo area back together this wknd :curse:
 
Joined
Feb 16, 2010
Posts
597
Reaction score
1
There are four different stanchion covers, not only the left and right but also different styles for the RT/10 and GTS/ACR. It should also be noted that the right side cover for the RT/10 has been discontinued by Mopar and will be harder to find in the future - at least if you want them brand new. Your local dealer should be able to get a couple more before they are out of stock. We sell them as well:

https://www.viperpartsofamerica.com...er-gts-or-acr-left-stanchion-cover-0me75mx3ad

https://www.viperpartsofamerica.com...r-gts-or-acr-right-stanchion-cover-0me74mx3ad

https://www.viperpartsofamerica.com...rt10-left-exterior-stanchion-cover-0qb97jx8af

https://www.viperpartsofamerica.com...t10-right-exterior-stanchion-cover-0qb96jx8af
 

Snakewatching

Viper Owner
Joined
Aug 1, 2007
Posts
81
Reaction score
0
Location
Western MD
Should the last picture of this write-up say:
"1).... Before reinstalling you must make sure that the Window "up travel" stop is all the way in its DOWN position,"

Instead of:
"1 ) ....Before reinstalling you must make sure that the door stop is all the way in its DOWN position,"

Am I correct???

The pictures and write-up are great.
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
153,143
Posts
1,681,575
Members
17,643
Latest member
thiagets
Top