Paxton Supercharged 2006 Coupe Build Thread

viper04

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Tony
Nice job, any runs on just motor? Any thought on why the clutch did not hold?
 
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Nine Ball

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Tony
Nice job, any runs on just motor? Any thought on why the clutch did not hold?

Was planning on making some blower only passes when the bottles ran dry. But, I broke 2nd gear in the trans, likely missing all the synchro teeth on that gearset. Won't go into 2nd now. All other gears fine. I've been beating on this factory TR6060 for over a year now, it has held up very well.

Clutch slippage likely due to 1000 ft-lbs torque and 6000 rpm launches.
 

mnc2886

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Was planning on making some blower only passes when the bottles ran dry. But, I broke 2nd gear in the trans, likely missing all the synchro teeth on that gearset. Won't go into 2nd now. All other gears fine. I've been beating on this factory TR6060 for over a year now, it has held up very well.

Clutch slippage likely due to 1000 ft-lbs torque and 6000 rpm launches.

Did you try your Gen V again?
 

viper04

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Was planning on making some blower only passes when the bottles ran dry. But, I broke 2nd gear in the trans, likely missing all the synchro teeth on that gearset. Won't go into 2nd now. All other gears fine. I've been beating on this factory TR6060 for over a year now, it has held up very well.

Clutch slippage likely due to 1000 ft-lbs torque and 6000 rpm launches.

Tony
Thanks for the reply but I was asking because you are running the " Bad Boyzz Clutch" and I was thinking the rating was 1300lbs tq at the wheel? That why I asked. Got to say the car runs strong.
 
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Nine Ball

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Holding 1300 ft lbs isn't the same as holding a high rpm dump on a sticky tires with drag tires. Mine doesn't slip at all, except on those high rpm clutch dumps with the spray on. RPM just climbs, car isn't moving. Launching below 4000 rpm, it holds fine all the way down the track. Just didn't like the 6000 rpm quick engagement stuff.
 
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Nine Ball

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If you've been doing that to the 6060, and only just now broke 2nd, it's nice to know how well built these are.

Even the factory T56 held up for almost a year, before I swapped it out. In fact, that trans still works. I upgraded to the TR6060 solely for the standing mile events, because of the gearing in 5th and 6th. This TR6060 has been over 200 mph multiple times. Probably has hundreds of 60-160 mph pulls, also.
 

pumpgas

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Guess you don't need a twin turbo system to run 150's in the 1/4, that is sweet! :drive: I would have to think longevity wise, this will be a much simpler setup to maintain over the years. On pumpgas with no spray it makes about 850rwhp right?

Tony, knowing what you know now after building this car, (excluding a nitrous setup and a new transmission cost), how much could you duplicate this setup for if you bought a stock 03-06 and did thee rest of the mods?

Could it be done for less than $30K?

I figure the built engine would be about $10K or so and the blower & install about $8K-10K. So everything else would be?
 
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Nine Ball

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My buddy Mike copied my exact build recipe, minus the nitrous and 3.33 gears. He went 10.31 @ 137 yesterday, on 19" drag radials. This was his first visit to a dragstrip, ever. Started the day by running 12s. It was a track rental day, so he got plenty of seat time and practice, and some coaching. His runs were on 93 octane, he drove it to the track and drove it back home. Around 850 rwhp. Mine makes 851 rwhp on Paxton + 93 octane, no nitrous.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QLET3aZJ0AI

If I were to do it all over again, I'd skip the Paxton + stock engine. That combo was a ****. I'd go twin turbos on a stock engine. They will hit harder and perform better, even if only 700 rwhp. The Paxton is only good on a built engine, where it can spin to its happy rpm range. That is around 11-12 psi boost, and 800-900 rwhp. Anything less, and the Paxton feels laggy and has pretty weak throttle response. People may think their Paxton stock engine car feels fast, but it is a HUGE difference when you turn the boost up on a built engine.

I went the nitrous route because I'm at the upper limits of my 2-bar MAP sensor already, so I can't add boost. The Novi2000 is maxed out as it sits. I'd have to invest another $5-6K into a stand-alone ECM if I wanted to increase the boost (via twin turbo, etc...), but then I'd lose my OBD2 state inspection possibility. My car passed the Texas inspection last week, btw. I can also drive it to work on 93 octane, even take a road trip in it, if I want. I already have 15,000 miles on this car.

Tony
 

pumpgas

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Thanks Tony. Didn't you run like 135mph in the 1/4 with the 7-8lb paxton setup, stock motor and 3.07 gears? It was like 650rwhp if I remember.

Shouldn't he have been in the low 140's with 850rwhp?
 
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Nine Ball

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My best was 134 mph with stock engine, but that wasn't normal. It would trap 129-131 most of the time. This white car would go over 140 with more seat time. He was still shifting it a bit early. First drag strip visit, ever. Running a bottom 10 is challenging, even for experienced drivers.
 

pumpgas

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10-4. Makes sense. Both Vipers are damn nice that's for sure!!!
 

dester243

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My silly 03 Paxton car could only muster out a 11.3 @ 127. I think the 20" drag radial with the longer effective gear ratio and the 1.9 almost 2.0 60 footers hurt the 1/4 time. Tire pressure at 20 psi dumping the clutch pretty much at the rev limiter and trying to slip the clutch resulted in bog bog bog.

Maybe it's time to invest in a piston/rod combo. Fuel system upgrades, SCT 2 bar map and copy your build. I need another couple hundred HP in my life. Owning a viper that puts down less hp than my 4 cylinder turbo Honda makes me sad some days.
 

V10TT

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If I were to do it all over again, I'd skip the Paxton + stock engine. That combo was a ****. The Paxton is only good on a built engine, where it can spin to its happy rpm range. People may think their Paxton stock engine car feels fast, but it is a HUGE difference when you turn the boost up on a built engine.
Tony

I've driven/raced in a stock Gen3 with a paxton, and a Stock Gen 2 with a paxton. I could not agree with you more. Cars are turds specially after getting a little of heat soaked on the water intercooler. (better to do a all out N/A set up, much faster)The 900 rwhp Paxton built SC cars do move the F##k OUT!!
 
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Nine Ball

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Went drag racing again today, another track rental day. Weather wasn't as good as last time, temps in the 60-65F range and sunny. Ran a new best ET and mph. Here are all my runs, I was practicing launch methods.

You must be registered for see images attach
 

JohnnyBravo

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Are you spraying out of the hole, once you hit 2nd gear, or at a predetermied MPH? Those look like great passes. What did your car dyno on the bottle vs. off the bottle?
 
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Nine Ball

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Are you spraying out of the hole, once you hit 2nd gear, or at a predetermied MPH? Those look like great passes. What did your car dyno on the bottle vs. off the bottle?

I have a digital nitrous controller from Nitrous Outlet. It is set to arm itself in 2nd gear and up. Basically, you set the max rpm window limit (6,200 rpm in my case) and the controller watches for your rpm to cross that rpm one time, then it arms the system for the next wide-open-throttle position and proper rpm window. So, arm it and just drive it.

I would have sprayed off the line, but this dual-disk didn't like that last time around. I have a triple-disk Bad Boyz Garage clutch coming soon, so I'll be able to spray in 1st.

I have not dynoed the car in over a year and a half. Back when it was just a 75 shot. Should be around 1,100 rwhp right now.

Here is a in-car video of the 9.4 pass.

http://youtu.be/rq0FAGiAxTM
 

Bobpantax

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You made it look easy. And I know that it is not. Thanks for posting the video.
 
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