Polish Mag Valve Covers?

[Hisserman]

Is there a good way to polish the exposed metal portions of the mag valve covers on Gen I and Gen II cars? Mine are getting dull and a little bit yellowish -- do they have clearcoat on them? Thanks.

 

[Hisserman]

Any suggestions?

 

[IEATVETS]

Hey Bruce, I started with 1500 grit sandpaper and worked may way to 2000 grit. VERY time consuming. It looked OK, so then I got some heat resistent paint and got a detailing brush and painted on the exposed areas. I like it and get some compliments on it also. Got to have a steady hand when you are painting though or you get paint where you don't want it. Thats is what I did.

 

[Hisserman]

Thanks for the tip!

 

[FE 065]

Maybe a stout sanding block as well?

 

[Jerry Dobson]

Yes a block works well.

1500? That would take a while.

I use 320 grit.

 

[IEATVETS]

I started with the higher grit because I wanted to see if it would polish to a shine. It did somewhat, but not what I was looking for. I did think about using a sanding block but if you go to far....ooops! You will sand parts of the valve cover that you didn't want sanded. Yeah, it took some time but you all know the expression; quality time with my Viper!!lol

 

[bwhitmore]

Hisserman,

Are you talking about the snekey pete logo and the Viper logo on the valve covers? 2000 grit is about the most you want to go on these. Since anything harsher is going to be hard to polish out by hand. Mine were getting dull and yellow too, I did a little 2000 grit followed by an aluminum polish, they shined right up, about as bright as my HRE's now. And there is no clear coat on them, so you don't have to worry about that.

 

[Hisserman]

Thanks guys -- great suggestions. One final question, would it be wise to clear coat them after I got them polished up? In other words, do you think it would help retain the shine?

 

[bwhitmore]

That's a good question, a lot of people get freaked out about exposed aluminum like it is going to oxidize overnight or something. But in all the products I have had that are billet or cast aluminum, I prefer to be able to polish the part over having it cleared. The clear is too delicate especially in an area that creates so much heat. And if it is exposed, the oxidation process is slow at best. Not to mention a little polish brings it back to life quickly.

 

[Tiepilot]

First off those VC's are magnesium and will oxidize from the inside out.
All the polishing and sanding is no good because of the properties of magnesium. They will gray/oxidize over again. Other than powder coating the logo or VIPER a different color or high heat painting a contrasting color will work.

Sorry to tell you that you are wasting your time, you will see.

Been there done that, and after a few months you'll see what I'm telling you to be the truth.

Can't polish magnesium.

 

[Hisserman]

More wisdom -- I appreciate it. Thanks again!

 

[IEATVETS]

That is why I painted mine with heat resistent paint. Need a steady hand though.

 

[95Viper]

Tape off the red paint and sand with a wooden block in case you slip. I use a high grit once or twice a year and only takes a few minutes.

 

[V 10 MAFIA]

You can polish the Lettering and the Logo on the valve covers. Product to use is Eagle One Original Never Dull Wadding Polish. No need to sand. Just use this cotton type polish. It will take time depending on the amount of oxidation but eventually you will be able to draw a highly polished chrome-like shine. When polishing there will be a black residue that can be washed off the valve covers with soap and water. The results will last a few weeks before they start to oxidize again but keeping up with it only takes 5 to 10 minutes each time to polish. If there is very heavy oxidation then try Mothers Billet Metal polish first and go over the lettering and logo with a Dremmel on low speed with a white felt polishing tip. (Apply Mother's polish on Lettering and Logo leave on and then go over with Dremmel). After this stage then use the Wadding Polish to heighten shine. Hope this helps. I got better than new results.

 

[Hisserman]

I love this site -- more great info, again. Thanks.

 

[JWVIPER]

Charles.......where do I get that *** stuff here on the big Island ?

I want to give it a shot.

 

[Hisserman]

JW --

You can usually get wadding polish at any good hardware store. Eagle One is a good brand, but others are just as good. Charles' tip was a great one.

 

[Shelby3]

Here was my solution to the problem.

You must be registered for see images

 

[JWVIPER]

JW --

You can usually get wadding polish at any good hardware store. Eagle One is a good brand, but others are just as good. Charles' tip was a great one.

Thanks , never heard of it, will try

 

[JWVIPER]

Shelby3, that does look like you took care of the problem.........

bet I can't get that at the local hardware store though...

 

[95Viper]

I'm buying the polish if it turns out like Shelby3's when I'm done rubbing!

 

[JWVIPER]

I'm buying the polish if it turns out like Shelby3's when I'm done rubbing!

Heck Ill even pay someone to rub for me for that result !!