Problems with PS pulley removal

[ViperBite]

I am doing the change out of the PS pulley and bracket. Bracket is on with no problems. I am doing it the "easy" way by not removing the pump.

I have gone to two auto stores and rented the pullers. Neither stores pulley halves will fit the groove in the plastic pulley. They are too wide for the groove in the plastic pulley. It is damn close but not close enough.

Ideas, thoughts or should I try yet a third store?

Also does anyone know the thread dia/pitch that is used to re-install the new pulley? Neither of the kits seemed to even thread into that bolt hole. I have looked to see if it is damaged but it looked ok.

Thanks.

 

[dave6666]

I had to grind the puller ends on my purchased one to fit. See pic. I think the thread is 3/8-16. If it's metric that would make it 10mm. I think it's engrish. Press 1.

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[Red Snake]

It should be close enough that it will fit if you force it. I just did mine a short while ago with an Autozone puller and I made it work.


http://forums.viperclub.org/rt-10-gts-discussions/619710-roe-ps-pulley-bracket-installed.html

 

[ViperBite]

I tried the one from Autozone (in a red box) not sure of the manuf. No way in hell to force that one.

Then went to Advanced Auto and theirs was a bit better (black box) but still not quite there. This version was very close but seemed to be mostly for Fords and GM based on the labeling inside the box.

The problem is that the section that is suppose to go into the groove is tapered on the puller. So I can get a very small part of it in the groove but not enough to have the barrel enclose the two halves. I considered modifying the "rented" unit but will wait to exhaust all other options. Then I guess I will own a tool that will never be used again. Maybe donate to the club for use by others????

Dave6666666666 puller is a different construction and I wonder if the stores might have that type. I think there is one other store I may try.

The bracket that holds the PS pump is a piece of junk. I can't believe how light and porous that piece is. The new bracket went in perfectly.

 

[A1998]

When I did mine a while back. I remember I had the same problem as you have. I eventually broke all the plastic wheel and left just the hub center piece. I then took my Dremel tool and cut the hub piece very close to the center. Then I was able to put a large screw driver in the cut area and split the hub.

Getting the new one on was just as bad as getting the old one off. I ended up going to a local mechanic who had the proper tool and used a large impact gun to get the new one on without damage.

Good Luck!

 

[dave6666]

The brand name of the puller and installer I purchased from Auto Zone is OEM. Kind of a snappy name isn't it?

The part number on the puller is 25190 (may be a SKU number).

Installer is 25298.

I just went to Auto Zone's web site and they've changed up the packaging and part numbers a bit but it looks like they show the installer tool there.

It was certainly a challenging project, and I even had the pump off the car. The hard way as you would define it. But the tools I purchased did the job with some patience and cold beers.

 

[ViperTony]

NAPA has the type Dave uses. I busted two pullers from AutoZone before going to NAPA and trying a couple of different models. Dave's is similiar to the one that ended up working for me.

 

[AZTVR]

NAPA has the type Dave uses. I busted two pullers from AutoZone before going to NAPA and trying a couple of different models. Dave's is similiar to the one that ended up working for me.

If you can find the part # of the one that worked, it would be good to post it in this thread, and maybe the vendors could include this kind of information with their pulleys.

I just have the more common two or three jaw pullers and am planning to do this upgrade myself.

 

[ViperTony]

If you can find the part # of the one that worked, it would be good to post it in this thread, and maybe the vendors could include this kind of information with their pulleys.

I just have the more common two or three jaw pullers and am planning to do this upgrade myself.

This looks like the one I used from NAPA. They owner was nice enough to let me borrow it and return it when I was done. Performance Tool W80653 - Performance Tool Power Steering and Alternator Pulley Pullers - summitracing.com

As for the installer tool...it looked like this Performance Tool W87022 - Performance Tool Power Steering Pulley Removal and Installer Tools - summitracing.com

 

[Red Snake]

I used the puller from Autozone in Festus. It's in a red box. It definitely works. Mine came off with no problem after I kind of forced it on there.

They don't even charge you for using the puller. You buy it for about $40 and then get a full refund on it when you are done, so the use is free.

 

[dave6666]

Here are the tools I bought as mentioned above. The part numbers are on the upper r/h corner of each package as I listed them also above.

They appear to be identical to the Summit kits that Tony listed.

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[ViperBite]

Dave,

How much did you have to modify the puller? Hard to see from the pic, but what keeps the fingers locked into the groove?

Was going to call NAPA and see if they had any tools for rent.

For my car, there was NO way I was going to get the AutoZone puller on it (red box). I might have been able to hammer in the one from Advance Auto, but did not want to take that path yet. I am also still gun shy to cut the plastic pulley off. That is my last resort.

 

[dave6666]

I really did not have to take much off the ends of the puller arms. As has been mentioned by others, they "almost fit." But also as mentioned it causes problems so I fixed it.

What keeps the arms from popping off the hub is the thumb screws that attach the arms to the silver block in the center of the puller. Those aren't exactly swivel joints like on some puller arms but when you loosen those screws the arms will move in and out some. And of course when you tighten them they will fix the arms in a position.

All in all those tools I bought were neither fancy nor premium well made models. But they did work with a little patience. Which you had better have regardless of the quality of tools in your box. I'd almost rather get a root canal than do the PS pulley again!

 

[Red Snake]

I would think that the puller that worked on my car would work on yours also. My PS pump and pulley were stock and they came right off.

Why not go down to Festus and get it? That would be 20 times better than cutting the pulley off.

It's also free.

 

[ViperBite]

Red,

I don't live near Festus. Quite far from there. The autozone near the house is about 1 mile away but like I said for whatever reason, their puller is not close enough to work. I will go back and see if they have more than one set in case there is a difference, plus I will likely buy what Dave has shown. I will then probably "rent" the installer again to put it back on.

Thanks for the comments and help. Will let you know the end result.

 

[Sweet Ride]

Matco tools part# MST93 works every time. It's a perfect fit both on and off. See if your local MATCO dealer has one that he can loan to you.

My pulley was a lot tighter on the shaft than most pulleys that I have removed. Going back on wasn't nearly as bad.

 

[ViperTony]

My experience with the PS Pulley Removal & Installation:

I consider the removal and installation of the PS Pulley a rite of passage for Viper owners. Not simply for the cuts, bruises, cursing, drinking that occurs during the actual pulley removal process but also for the 'quest' that ensues when you realize you need the 'right' pulley puller. I've never made so many friends at PepBoys, AutoZone, Napa in one day. Or, strolling into my local mechanic in town covered in sweat, grease, cuts and bruises asking "Hey Buddy...ya' got a PS puller I can borrow?!?"

Well, just when I get the *&$@^ pulley off the ****** of the quest comes to fruition...installing the new PS pulley!!!! Joy to the world! After all of the blood sweat and tears THE MOMENT has arrived...I was giddy with anticipation.

Installing the new pulley couldn't be any easier. Yep...I had a big old smile on my face as the new pulley was easing onto the PS pump shaft with ease...like butta!!!

...except that I installed BB Dave's pulley bracket on crooked. Yes, it went on crooked. Don't know how that happened, it was ever so slight but seeing that wobbly pulley spinning along on the engine was perhaps one of the most heart-wrenching disappointments I've ever had. Try, I dare you, try to get Dave's PS pully bracket off the PS pump. It can't be done. Thank goodness for the Rotor Zip.

Just when all was lost, Big Brake Dave sent me a replacement bracket. His words of wisdom were "Tony...this time, try a little grease to help slide it on in a uniform manner"...the man is a GOD I tell ya'. It worked.

I laughed, I cried, I swore, I sweat...Yesiree...I'd do it again in a heart-beat.

 

[dave6666]

I'm going to get that root canal now Tony...

 

[hemihead]

You guys are bumm'in me out!
I'm staring at a new Roe pulley just waitting to go on.
Good tips here but just so I have my shiopping list togehter:
Beer
Lubricant
(souunds good so far!)
puller
installer
Band-aids
whiskey.

got it!

 

[dave6666]

I'd add a large hammer to that list. Not for the pulley removal or installation, but to smash your foot with before you start working.

Busted knuckles?!? Can't even feel 'em...

 

[hemihead]

On a serious note, would a couple shots of penitrating fluid and some soak time help get the pully off?

 

[dave6666]

On a serious note, would a couple shots of penitrating fluid and some soak time help get the pully off?

It will probably be a slight help. Maybe. Penetrating fluids are good for parts that actually have measurable clearances. Like screw threads etc. But on press fit parts that realistically have no clearance between the shaft and hub bore, not much can work down in there. I used some Liquid Wrench though when I did mine. Kept me warm and fuzzy that I was doing all I could to make that pulley just come sliding right off which it didn't.

 

[ViperBite]

Just imagine a series of phrases, words, slang in the following sentence.

This piece of xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx. And the junior engineering that designed this piece of xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx deserves a fist in the face, naw make that nuts. Should have never been a plastic pulley in the first place.

Still not off. Got the last tool as dave used since they are discontinued. However it is not doing well other than bending the fingers. However I may be able to get them open enough to used the rental set, maybe.

Taking a beer break right now. Good thing no one is home.

 

[Sweet Ride]

This piece of xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx. And the junior engineering that designed this piece of xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx deserves a fist in the face, naw make that nuts. Should have never been a plastic pulley in the first place.

Blame the bean counters... The likely savings from the plastic pulley vs. a metal pulley would likely keep the company from going bankrupt. Oh wait...

 

[ViperBite]

Well game over. Once the flange bent slightly, it just ripped away around the circumference. I just ripped the entire piece off. Only recourse now is to cut the plastic pulley off and dremel the hub. I am not sure I want to do that now.

Have to go kill something first. I am guessing I now should pull the pump off the car to get this done right. Damn I hate cutting a perfectly good pulley off.

Who has done this before and what tools did you use that made the job "easier".

 

[Sweet Ride]

Worst case scenario, you could purchase a new P/S pump and start completely fresh.

I know its a pretty common part and you can pick them up at most Napa, Autozone, Checker, etc. for under $100.

 

[ViperTony]

Damn Yankee did write up on the PS Pulley/Bracket procedure and it shows Tator's having to cut off the pulley after it broke during removal. It happens. No shame...just take a dremel or Roto Zip to it and be done.

 

[dave6666]

I think this a lesson for those that want to take the "easy" route and not remove the pump from the car and put in on the workbench. Mine was very difficult, but very successful. I attribute that partially to being able to wrestle as needed with the pump and tools. You just... can't... do that... on the car!

BTW, to prevent having to undo the clamped and stuck hose from the plastic reservoir, undo it from the rack and leave the hose attached.

 

[RTTTTed]

I have used a hacksaw to cut the hubs of various seized wheel bearing races that have welded themselves to spindles before and it worked well. Once the cut is close to the shaft the hub should 'pop' and lossen itself because of the tension that holds it on. You can use a hacksaw, drill or both to cut the pulley off of the hub.

My pulley and bracket are sitting in my garage waiting for my attention as well. Snow won't likely be melted before March so I have time to spare.

Ted

 

[ViperBite]

Dave,

I had plenty of room to work on the pump on the car....so not sure that leaving it on the car had anything to do with the issue at hand. In fact I found a good "nesting" spot while it was in the car and did not have to hold the pump at all. Both hands were free to deal with the wrenches, puller, etc.

Have not decided if today is a good day to continue this job.