Question for Tom, F&L GoR about factory fill oil

Tom F&L GoR

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Number eleventeen in the series. Names are changed to protect the innocent.



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Re: Mobile One
If that were true, there would be tons of Better Business Bureau complaints about false advertising, since Mobil put their logo on the oil fill cap for several years and published magazine advertisements saying that they were factory fill for Viper, Porsche, etc, etc. ExxonMobil isn't technically stupid and could easily formulate an oil to meet the requirements. I do not know absolutely for sure, but it is just too easy for ExxonMobil to get their oil into the crankcase regardless of the hurdles. And what oil would have been there while Mobil was advertising it was theirs?

In a new production engine, the oil choice is insignificant. Many engines use synthetics from the factory, many use mineral, and many today use mineral oils that are so highly refined that they are considered synthetic. I worked for Cosworth for a short time and all their F1 engines ran synthetic from the first minute to the last minute. I worked for Texaco for many years and we sold mineral engine oil to the OEMs, and those engines ran mineral from the first to last minute. It is the additives that matter more.

The key to break-in is engine preparation and antiwear additive levels. That combination needs to result in properly "worn in" surfaces after the first oil change. Modern engines don't use sliding lifters anymore, so the amount of anti-wear additive needed (measured by zinc and phosphorus) is almost half what it was 10 years ago because roller lifters don't have the same cam lobe stresses. Also, cylinder walls and rings are "rounder" and made of different materials, so the break-in process is shorter or almost non-existent. Notice I didn't mention the base oil type... because it doesn't matter.

Some versions of synthetic oils (i.e. Mobil 1 0W40) still have very good levels of antiwear additive. Oils that are marketed today as "break-in" oil have 2X to 3X the amount and are only needed for high performance, high spring pressure, high lift flat tappet engines. So it depends on what you mean by "regular" engine.

The interesting thing engine builders still kind of miss is that the antiwear additive issue is not "how much" there is in the new oil, but "for how long" do you need this additive. In other words, an oil with a lower level only needs to be changed sooner relative to an oil with a higher amount.

Let me know if you have any follow-ups or something doesn't make sense.

-Tom

Quote:
Originally Posted by brbr
Tom.... I am having a discussion with a person that did a build on a Viper Motor. He is telling me that no Viper Motors came with Mobile One in the crank case ? Is this true ?

What is the difference between using Synthetic Oil (Mobile One) and regular engine oil in a new motor ?

thanks....brbr
 

KenH

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Speaking of zinc levels in oil, my roller rockers had a big warning label on them that I MUST add a zinc additive to the oil (or use a high zinc oil) for at least the first 50 miles of break-in of the new parts. I bought some Lucas brand zinc additive for this purpose.

I did some reading of what zinc actually does to protect an engine at points where metal to metal contact is occuring (rather than riding on a layer of oil like on the bearings). That got me wondering if there was any value in running an additive like this full-time or would it be a waste of money unless you were running flat tappet lifters with really high spring pressures like you mention.
 

jmillsUT28

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Hey Tom, got a question for you. I just bought a 2002 with a Paxton and has a built engine. What oil would you put in? 15-40 Sythin Diesel? How many quarts will it take? What about oil filter? Thanks in advance!
 
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Tom F&L GoR

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hes rainman for fuels and oils.

Wish I looked liked Dustin Hoffman.

Speaking of zinc levels in oil, my roller rockers had a big warning label on them that I MUST add a zinc additive to the oil (or use a high zinc oil) for at least the first 50 miles of break-in of the new parts. I bought some Lucas brand zinc additive for this purpose.

I did some reading of what zinc actually does to protect an engine at points where metal to metal contact is occuring (rather than riding on a layer of oil like on the bearings). That got me wondering if there was any value in running an additive like this full-time or would it be a waste of money unless you were running flat tappet lifters with really high spring pressures like you mention.

Break-in is knocking the high spots off freshly machined surfaces so that the terrain looks like plateaus (instead of peaks) but retains the valleys. Retaining the valleys is critical because that gives the oil a place to hide/stay/get squished into. It is very normal that after break-in with a high ZDDP oil, to be able to use a shelf oil because the rate of wear is much lower and you don't need nearly as much zinc. Because the consumer market for ZDDP and ZDDP replacements is not mature, when you purchase and use these products it is difficult to predict exactly what formulation you have created. Continual excessive amounts can cause ringland deposits and if you have some oil consumption, piston top deposits. Therefore, after using the break-in oil you would be safer using a higher ZDDP oil that is still available, such as the Mobil 0W40, or any diesel 15W40 mineral oil or a diesel 5W40 synthetic oil.


Hey Tom, got a question for you. I just bought a 2002 with a Paxton and has a built engine. What oil would you put in? 15-40 Sythin Diesel? How many quarts will it take? What about oil filter? Thanks in advance!

A diesel mineral is 15W40 and a diesel synthetic is 5W40. Either the 15W40 or 5W40 would be ideal for a blown engine since diesel oil in the US is formulated for highly blown (turbo) big block (10 to 12 liter) medium speed engines. Ha-ha, I'm comparing tractor trailer engines to Viper engines, but for the oil there are more similarities than differences. Sorry that I'm a Gen 1 guy that still adds 11 qts, but don't know your oil fill quantity. Smaller, I think. ;)

:2tu::2tu::2tu::headbang: I agree! A lubrication section maybe?

How about a notebook system. I tend to run at the mouth about fuels and lubes and whenever there is a noteworthy thread, we push it into something like the illustrated guide forum like a new page in "the book". PUL-EESE don't be asking for textbook material.
 

jmillsUT28

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Tom you are the man! Thanks for the detailed answer! Going to change the oil here soon...
 

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