Radiator leak

[Shal]

Radiator leaking from bottom seam of tank on driver side.

Should I replace with aluminum radiator or get the copper radiator repaired?

Strictly a street car.

Thanks for all your suggestions.

 

[BoondocSaint]

There are radiator shops that can take and recore yours with a 3 core as opposed to the factory 2 core. You'd have to call around and see if the going rate makes sense compared to an aftermarket solution. Either way will be an upgrade to factory cooling.

 

[white out]

I am happy with The Viper Store aluminum and Mishimoto hoses. Coolest running Viper out of the 4 I've had over the past 15 years.

 

[Shal]

One of the most intriguing aspects of owning a Viper for years is the community. Thanks, "Boondocsaint" and "white out".

Here in Sacramento area, priced 3 core rebuild ($1500, 5 days) and 2 core rebuild (around $800, 3 days). Mechanic says 2 hours of labor. But if rebuilding have to have a bay allocated or "push" the car in and out as required.

Now comes the decision time..... I can do it myself, and since I am partially OCD, would end up cleaning everything while waiting for the rebuild. But to rebuild or not to rebuild is what I have to decide.

 

[TEALLIFE]

recore it if you have someone who can do it or the time to get it done.

I went with aluminum bc I got frustrated trying to find a shop to recore it.

 

[cwazy1]

I had mine recored to 3 and it was about 1100 just at the radiator shop. It wasn't much cheaper to do 2 core. I did the labor to pull it out myself. No regrets. Still completely stock looking. After doing so, the car doesn't really run any cooler, it just cools down faster when the fans turn on and maintains good temp while driving on the street. If you really wanted cooler temps, spend the money on a lower thermostat and the labor involved in doing that. Not really necessary for a street car though.

 

[luc]

I had mine recored to 3 and it was about 1100 just at the radiator shop. It wasn't much cheaper to do 2 core. I did the labor to pull it out myself. No regrets. Still completely stock looking. After doing so, the car doesn't really run any cooler, it just cools down faster when the fans turn on and maintains good temp while driving on the street. If you really wanted cooler temps, spend the money on a lower thermostat and the labor involved in doing that. Not really necessary for a street car though.

?????
A thermostat only control the minimum coolant temperature, the maximum is controlled by the system Btu’s capacity

 

[Shal]

What are your thoughts on a triple bypass aluminum radiator that's available online ? Will it work with stock pump and coolant system ?

VPUSA is annoying to deal with unfortunately. None of the emails get responded to. Calls direct me to email them.

 

[BoondocSaint]

I don't have an aluminum radiator, but many on this forum do. The general consensus from what I've read is that they work well. Not sure which brands people prefer, but I doubt you'd be disappointed going aluminum if it's a quality piece at a better price. You won't need to change out anything else besides the radiator, but might as well do the hoses while you're in there.

 

[Goggles Pizano]

Here we go again. 'Put a lower temp thermostat....' well then with no thermostat it will make it run like it is -50°

The aluminum rads start to leak from cracks (both mechanical stress and thermo stress) and/or galvanic reaction in time so if you go that route be aware and know what you are getting into.

 

[Shal]

After all the discussions and talking to 2 radiator shops that sell Aluminum radiators and work on Copper/Brass, they advised to recore if possible. Price is the same. But takes 2-3 weeks to recore.

Decided to go with dimpled tubes and high efficiency cores....They claim are custom hand made in the US.

Keeping my fingers crossed. As many on this thread indicated, Aluminum doesn't hold well with the vibrations of the V10 and also thermal stresses. They also said if Aluminum leaks, they cant fix it. Perhaps why Dodge in it's infinite wisdom decided to put 2 rows of 5/8 tubes.


Shop advised me against 3 rows, just because in the 1994 the fan mount is not studs but screws. And they get too close to the 3rd core and vibration and flexing can damage it. Since I am not tracking or doing 1500HP with twin turbos (one guy has come to the same shop to upgrade his copper/brass), I should be better than the highly calcium covered cores that I have now.