New ’98 RT/10 owner – looking for trusted parts sources + “while you’re in there” advice

DeadpoolViper

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Hi everyone,
I recently purchased an amazing 1998 RT/10 with ~51k miles in Naples, Florida
The car runs strong but has a handful of issues that I’d like to address the right way and ideally all at once.

I’m working with a local mechanic who has experience with Vipers, but he does not source parts due to the time and frustration involved with Gen-2 availability. I’m looking for guidance from the community on reputable parts suppliers, rebuild/exchange options, and advice on anything I should order in addition so the car doesn’t end up sitting in the shop waiting on one overlooked part.

Specifically, I’m hoping to learn:
• Trusted vendors for OEM, rebuilt, or upgraded Gen-2 parts, Not looking to keep the Viper original just street worthy for daily driving.
• Whether rebuilt components typically require a core return up front, or if it’s possible to install first and send the old part back after (to minimize downtime)
• Any “do it once” recommendations while things are already apart

Below is my current repair list, in order of priority.

1. Rear Differential – rebuild / upgrade
• Currently leaking and has noticeable play
• I’d like to update the gear ratio while it’s being rebuilt
Questions:
a) Are there reputable vendors offering rebuilt or upgraded diffs on an exchange basis where I can install first and send my diff back after?
b) Any supporting parts I should order at the same time (mounts, seals, hardware, etc.)?

2. Radiator replacement
• Existing radiator is leaking
• Planning to upgrade to a 3-row aluminum radiator
Questions:
a) Besides upper/lower hoses, is there anything else I should proactively order (clamps, bolts, fan wiring, sensors, etc.)?
b) Do you recommend installing a 180-degree thermostat while doing the radiator, or sticking with stock?

3. Valve covers & gaskets
• Minor oil leak
• Valve cover paint is peeling, minor bubbling on the covers
Plan is new gaskets and either refinished or replacement covers.
Any vendor recommendations or tips here?

4. Drivetrain refresh while rear diff is out
• Planning to replace U-joints on the driveshaft and half-shafts
Question:
Is there anything else commonly replaced or inspected while the rear diff is out that I should address now rather than later?

5. Power steering pulley
• Currently in good shape
Question:
Is this a replace while you’re there with a metal vs the stock plastic item or fine to leave alone if it’s not showing issues?

6. Anything I’m missing?
If you were doing this scope of work on a 50k-mile Gen-2, are there any known weak points, seals, bushings, or wear items you’d knock out proactively?


I really appreciate any advice, vendor recommendations, or lessons learned. I’m trying to do this once, do it right, and keep the car off jack stands as much as possible.
If you need pictures of anything let me know.

Thanks in advance — looking forward to learning from the community.


— Fred
 

99RT10GTS

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Hey Fred,
lots of good people here. I am the one you are talking to Via ebay/text on the 3 piece top. I do referb valve covers, typically at a cost of $550-600ish.

Rear diff, I have several good units, but would suggest to get one with 3.45-3.55 gear sets. Makes 6th gear useable. Always check the needle bearings on the U-joints, and if you need new, the Spicer 1350-x is typically what you want to look for

Most decent thermostats will be fine and I would recommend 180 for just keeping the car cooling while moving.I sell those, but also the Mopar 185 degree stats too. On the radiator, you can get your stock one re-cored for about $300-500 depending on your local radiator shops. You can also get a Howe triple pass which is probably the best aftermarket radiator for about $1100. Along with that, water pumps can be rebuilt with a billet impeller for about $750-800.

PS pulley, if you can get the March pulley one, they look the best, but at the same time, think about getting a billet mount too. When your ready to install a Roe Supercharger, I have one for sale.................. :lol2:

Really, the 1998 should be a solid car. The engines are near bullet proof, they don't implode like the Gen 3s tend to do.
 
Last edited:
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DeadpoolViper

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Oct 18, 2025
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Location
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Hey Fred,
lots of good people here. I am the one you are talking to Via ebay/text on the 3 piece top. I do referb valve covers, typically at a cost of $550-600ish.

Rear diff, I have several good units, but would suggest to get one with 3.45-3.55 gear sets. Makes 6th gear useable. Always check the needle bearings on the U-joints, and if you need new, the Spicer 1350-x is typically what you want to look for

Most decent thermostats will be fine and I would recommend 180 for just keeping the car cooling while moving.I sell those, but also the Mopar 185 degree stats too. On the radiator, you can get your stock one re-cored for about $300-500 depending on your local radiator shops. You can also get a Howe triple pass which is probably the best aftermarket radiator for about $1100. Along with that, water pumps can be rebuilt with a billet impeller for about $750-800.

PS pulley, if you can get the March pulley one, they look the best, but at the same time, think about getting a billet mount too. When your ready to install a Roe Supercharger, I have one for sale.................. :lol2:

Really, the 1998 should be a solid car. The engines are near bullet proof, they don't implode like the Gen 3s tend to do.
Hey thanks for all the advice, Can you PM me on the Rear Diff with updated gear sets. Do you sell rebuilt diff with 3.55 gears, Price and logistics etc? Not sure how to purchase a rear diff with the updated 3.55 gears, do i need to send the original first to be rebuilt or do I receive the rebuilt and then send in the original for a core credit.
 

99RT10GTS

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Yes, you can send it out or I am hoping to have some at the end of Feb, ready to go.
 

hermperf

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If you are looking for a org, radiator complete with fans with shroud i have one for sale on this forum,It is in like new condition.
 

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