Results of my Saturday Dyno-Day

[Guyver1]

Hey Mark, here's a pic I took during one of the runs

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You have every right to be excited about those figures

 

[Venom Lover]

Mark, great results! I'm glad your car did the '97s proud. Don't let the post-'98 guys hear you calling 430 rwhp "just ok"....

 

[Russ M]

When you let the car sit for 45 min to cool down did you make sure to warm the engine up to opperating temp or did you make the pull cold? Just wondering for my upcoming dyno....

Thanks

 

[Martin D]

Russ,

IMHO, you will not need to do an additional warm up. Just get in and do the pull. There will still be enough residual heat. This should yield the best results.

Regards,

 

[GTS Dean]

When you're street racing or track racing, those few extra dyno/cold engine HP won't do you one bit of good. What everyone ought to be concerned with is fully-warmed-up, hot-off-the-street, strap-it-down-and-hammer-it HP.

 

[Tom Welch]

Just in case you are wondering, having purchased several ********* drag racing engines and having them broke in on dynos, we used the same technique for all and I still use this technique with my viper at the track and on the dyno.

1. Heat soak the engine for approx. 10 minutes to bring the OIL up to operatiing temperature.

2. If at the drag strip either jack up the rear end and allow the car to idle in gear while warming up, or drive around the pits. This is to warm up the drivetrain. The transmission and rear end have thicker fluids in them that also need to be brought to running temp. Also for drag racing, a clutch failure in the limited slip rear end can result from burning out "cold"

3. Allow the engine temp to cool.

4. Make your dyno pull/ drag strip run at @ 160dg F. WATER temp, and 190-220dg F. OIL temp(normal operating) Because you don't have a oil temp gauge in the viper, rest assured that the oil will remain at a far more constant temp than water, and for a much longer period of time.

Just my $ .02

Tom
Http://btrviper.com

 

[XS TORQ]

I am curious to find out what difference will be seen (if any) on a dyno due to rear gear change. I have heard that the dyno number will show artificially low due to numerically higher (3.54) gear. Any input would be appreciated.

 

[XS TORQ]

How about if you ease the car up to max RPM's allowing the dyno additional time to read? Any suggestions to get a true(r) reading?
Thanks!

 

[9 seconds]

Mark,
To do that you would have to be at part throttle. Then you would only "more accurately" read your horsepower at part throttle. That number would be a lot lower.

 

[ronviper]

The best DYNO is the 1/4 mile, the "mph" tells the story.