Shifting is FUN again - B&M Ripper installed

[ROCKET62]

Been debating getting rid of the old stock shifter in my '93 for about six months and finally bit the bullet. What was I waiting for? I had the stock shifter and the MGW First Strike Knob. While the throw was shorter with the MGW knob - the shifts felt sloppy, the old springs sometimes did not return the shifter to the exact center position, and at times was difficult to shift.

NO MORE - crisp shifts, solid feel, and no more guessing. I used the supplied solid shaft from B & M. With the short shaft and short knob, reverse is a bit more challenging and it can take two hands to shift into reverse. I also disabled the skip shift mechanism (added the $0.20 resistor) and changed the tranny fluid while I was there.

Total install time was about 1 hour. Another VCA member (Jerry Scott) has install instructions if you want to install from below without having to drill out the rivets that hold the boot in place or drill two 3/4" holes to access the mounting bolts. I was originally going to approach it this way, but in my opinion, this method will probably work best if you have the viper on a lift or up on 4 jack stands/ramps and the patience to work blindly feeling for the mounting bolts.

Ordered the B & M Ripper p/n 45055 from unlimitedspeed.com (also via ebay) for $229 + $10 shipping.

If you're not happy with the stock shifter - change it - you won't regret it.

 

[Wayne]

Out of curiousity, does something like that or a Cat-back system void your warranty? (factory or extended)
I have seen several people who have changed these out and swear by them.
Did you do the swap yourself or have someone else do it?
If you did it; was it very complicated?
If you didn't, what is the installation charge for something like that?
Outside of the throw differance, does this change anything in the transmission that could be considered a "down side"?

 

[ROCKET62]

Wayne,

Can't comment on the warranty issue.

Installation was very easy - especially on my '93. I did read somewhere that on the newer models (not sure what year Dodge made the switch) that the pop rivets that hold the shifter boot in place were a hardened steel - making the drill out process a little harder. Also, some people may be a little concerned about drilling two 3/4" holes in the transmission tunnel to access the bolts for the shifter - but as I indicated above, if you had the patience and a lift or 4 jackstands/ramps you could change the shifter from below using directions from Jerry.

In reality I'm 99% sure that you could also get around drilling the holes if you had a 1/4" universal joint, 1/4" extension(s), and a 1/4" 13mm socket.

Only took about an hour. The included directions are very good - if you're so inclined to actually read them.

Good Luck!

 

[Hisserman]

How do we get ahold of Jerry Scott to get the instructions?

 

[ROCKET62]

I emailed Jerry for his directions. His email is [email protected]. Basically you need to remove the trans plate, loosen smooth tubes if you have them, support the back end of the trans with a floor jack, remove trans crossmember, lower jack and trans 1-2" to create room to work, reach up over trans to remove the bolts blindly, pry shifter loose, and reverse process to install.

I was going to approach it this way, but wasn't in a very patient mood and didn't feel like laying on my back with the Viper only supported by two jack stands. Also, as the old shifter is sealed with RTV sealant, it may be a bit of a challenge prying the old one off.

The "How To" section has a brief preview of the install instructions if you're going to do it from above. Only downside I see is drilling out the rivets that hold down the shift boot as I truely believe that with a 1/4" universal, extensions, and 13mm socket, you could loosen the shifter mounting bolts without having to drill through the trans tunnel.

Good Luck!

 

[Stiffler]

I have the Ripper also, great shifter!