SRT brake upgrade - pedal travel

[WDW MKR]

I've searched and found a few threads on this subject, but none that were conclusive or had final follow-up with the fix. After installing SRT brakes at all (4) corners, along with SS lines, my pedal travels too much before engagement. It grabs well once it does engage. Seems that the first ~2" of travel is soft with the car running. The pedal travel is short and firm with the just the key on and the engine off (i.e. while bleeding brakes). I've bled the system a couple of times after having a slight leak at one of the banjo bolts.

Am I still fighting air? Has anyone needed to upgraded to the GEN3/4 master cylinder? I don't think I let air into the master cylinder, but can't say for certain. I'm still bleeding the old fashioned way. Also have a wheel speed sensor issue that is throwing the ABS light (I'm assuming)... will this affect the brake travel while the ABS is bypassed? The parking brake light is also on, which I believe can be related to low fluid or a leak resulting in pressure bias.

EDIT: This is a 2002 GTS. I've considered pad knock-back, but this issue is present even while backing out of the garage. Not sure if a few full revolutions of a wheel would be enough to create this effect. The potential for knock-back came to mind when parking at a restaurant this weekend and hearing a repetative "clunk" with the wheels at full lock, turning at low speed. I'll do some more investigating this evening.

 

[rollymohan]

remove all wheels and check that all brake pads are in properly with no play between the pads and rotor.any play will cause excess pedal travel before break engages.if everything is fine spin each rotor and check for any runouts,too much runouts or improperly seated rotors will affect pedal feel and travel.

 

[WDW MKR]

Thanks for the reply. Your thoughts definitely support my general suspicion of pad knock back and/or rotor runout. I bled the hell out of the system with my new Motive setup. I initially didn't think it did any better than the old school method with my wife in the car, but was faster and more consistent. The brake light also went out, so I guess it did a better job of purging the last of the air. Also corrected my ABS tone ring issue and got rid of the ABS light. All is back to normal, with exception of the rotor ring runout and associated pedal travel. The pedal is rock solid until I back out of the garage. I can mitigate the issue by quickly tapping the pedal before applying full pressure to stop. I'll have a new set of rings coming from my man in the NE, tomorrow.