stroke motor vs forced fed cars. is it worth it? good or bad?
- Thread starter v8huntr
- Start date
Torquemonster
Enthusiast
Do you like vanilla or chocolate?
There isn't a right or wrong answer.
Bang for buck - the bolt on blower kits must be the clear choice unless you want to run nitrous - which is the cheapest big hp you can buy.
But there is something to be said for a blue-printed built up stroker engine. The comfort of knowing your engine has been torn down and lovingly rebuilt to precise tolerances to your specifications, and is pretty much bullet proof if you treat it right.
Personally - I like a built up engine - factories never quite go far enough for me - so a good thorough custom engine job is the ticket for me rather than just bolting on power and hoping the factory did a good job of the base. But there are many here who have got fantastic results on a factory engine.
The modern Viper V10 is a big leap forward from the crappy muscle car V8's that were dogs until you blueprinted them.
Of course the ultimate is to do both!!! Build up an engine just how you want it then add blower - best of both worlds - if you can hang on to that much power!
Every tuner has customer fans - guess we'll be seeing some of them replying here soon....
I'll share what I've been thinking of - getting a LETHAL750 customised for me, and when I got used to that power and wanted more - later add intercooled boost with the best boost Viper tuner I can find - at which time I'd change cam and drop compression. It's all repairs and maintenance tax deductible isn't it?
There isn't a right or wrong answer.
Bang for buck - the bolt on blower kits must be the clear choice unless you want to run nitrous - which is the cheapest big hp you can buy.
But there is something to be said for a blue-printed built up stroker engine. The comfort of knowing your engine has been torn down and lovingly rebuilt to precise tolerances to your specifications, and is pretty much bullet proof if you treat it right.
Personally - I like a built up engine - factories never quite go far enough for me - so a good thorough custom engine job is the ticket for me rather than just bolting on power and hoping the factory did a good job of the base. But there are many here who have got fantastic results on a factory engine.
The modern Viper V10 is a big leap forward from the crappy muscle car V8's that were dogs until you blueprinted them.
Of course the ultimate is to do both!!! Build up an engine just how you want it then add blower - best of both worlds - if you can hang on to that much power!
Every tuner has customer fans - guess we'll be seeing some of them replying here soon....
I'll share what I've been thinking of - getting a LETHAL750 customised for me, and when I got used to that power and wanted more - later add intercooled boost with the best boost Viper tuner I can find - at which time I'd change cam and drop compression. It's all repairs and maintenance tax deductible isn't it?
Paolo Castellano
Enthusiast
Mike, Actually stroker motors are not that reliable at all compared to the factory bore and stroke. For drag racing, stroker motors are just fine. I can tell you that I have talked with one of the Silverstate Viper racers and he told me that they all had oiling problems going all out for extended periods of time. This is a fact, not fiction==> I am not saying this to cause friction but it is just the way it is. The factory bore and stroke were engineered that way for a reason. If you want to up the power, add a supercharger and maybe heads and cam! Smokin V-10's car made 775 RWHP/765 RWLBS/FT on stock bottom end, heads and cam on 12 PSI for around 15K what more could you want? With headwork and slightly lower compression, Gary's car made 843 RWHP and 792 RWLBS/FT.
That's a surprise to me,maybe those motors were not built properly. I mean just look at all the world of motorsports. Na is the route that is chosen for the simple reason of reliability. The less crap you have, is the less crap you can break
Paolo Castellano
Enthusiast
That's a surprise to me,maybe those motors were not built properly. I mean just look at all the world of motorsports. Na is the route that is chosen for the simple reason of reliability. The less crap you have, is the less crap you can break
Mike, I do not know of any tuner's stroker motors that were mentioned above that have done Silverstate races. I was just informed they did not oil properly at extended all-out type racing past the 1/4.
==> I will be running my Heffner car in the September Silverstate race soon.
SMCBUILDERSINC
Enthusiast
Paolo, smokin v10 gotr that kind of power for 15k from who? I thought that type of power was costing around 18-20k.
Tiepilot
Enthusiast
I think I read that Jason Heffner built Smokin's Viper, I never read the price but the pic's were fantastic. I for some reason always thought it was a 30K to 40K and up price tag to get cars modded like that.
Paolo Castellano
Enthusiast
sweet, I hope you go for an all out top speed
Mike, as soon as I get the car broken in and to a closed test track, I will be doing timed 100-200 MPH runs as well as some 220 MPH bursts. My car was rock solid @193 MPH with the windows open on the closed track I sampled last year. The Silverstate Viper guy told me the GTS is aerodynamically sound up to 210-215 MPH.
Paolo Castellano
Enthusiast
SMC, Jason Heffner built Smokin V-10's car for around 15K. I know all the chrome was extra, but if you already have a venom 600, you could make even more power as your heads have already been done. I see you are in SC. I am leaving very shortly to go and pick up my car in MD. Look for my post on the board as I will be there breaking the engine, carbon-carbon clutch, newly re-geared transmission, and unitrax cryogenically treated differential. ==> I need to do 5-600 miles of stop and go driving to break in the clutch, talk about torture! I am sure I will do the factory break in procedure as I am going up and down the street light strip! Once you see the post the car is ready or close to the requisite # of break in miles, come down with a set of depends and I will show you something!
SMCBUILDERSINC
Enthusiast
Ill be on the look out for your posts. What type of power are you going to be getting from your setup? How much does it cost to get those numbers?
V10 MOJO
Enthusiast
ive always wanted the NA route via stroker but all the individuals ive inquired to who have gone this route advise not to do it and say they would not do it again d/t not cost effective.
BTW; from what i can recall, when i was considering boost, heffs work for aprox 800rwhp is around 15K and thats a damnn good bang for buck price
BTW; from what i can recall, when i was considering boost, heffs work for aprox 800rwhp is around 15K and thats a damnn good bang for buck price
Anthony - 98 GTS
Enthusiast
I concur with the above and as of today a stroker motor has run quicker in the 1/4 mile than any blower car.
Take a 488 cubic inch Viper engine and bolt on a supercharger or turbo and you now have a motor that thinks its 700 inch engine . That's the glory of a forced induction system . You don't have to run a big cam or loud open exhaust. You keep your car tame until you lay into it.
-Lou
. That's the glory of a forced induction system . You don't have to run a big cam or loud open exhaust. You keep your car tame until you lay into it.-Lou
For those of you who are curious about Jason Heffner's performance packages, follow this link and you'll get a lot of info and pricing from his website.
Heffner's Performance Packages
Heffner's Performance Packages
Martin D
Enthusiast
I am a Stroker fan.........
Good luck with your project!
Regards,
Good luck with your project!
Regards,
Torquemonster
Enthusiast
For an engine I was wanting to be able to sit on WOT for 90 miles - I'd want nice maths in the design - stroker would only be a go if I could get a rod stroke ratio around 1.7 to 1.8:1. That is where I'd want to be. A 488 cube engine intact will go much faster than a 542 cube stroker with a leg out of bed at 6200rpm.
re oiling - that problem will apply equally to a blown engine at WOT - the crankcase gets pressurised by any leakage and that accelerates blow by for a start. At extended WOT, factory engines usually lack adequate drain back so can end up starving at the bottom end with excess up top. More-over - you'll want wider clearances for hard out running. The trick is to drill an extra hole or two in the bearings and groove the saddles the shells sit in..... the top racing engine guys do this - it's their 'secret' for long life, but very few actually know about it. That's how you get an 8 litre motor to rpm to 8000-9500rpm all season and not have any wear - as in zero wear, at least on Redline oil anyway.
re oiling - that problem will apply equally to a blown engine at WOT - the crankcase gets pressurised by any leakage and that accelerates blow by for a start. At extended WOT, factory engines usually lack adequate drain back so can end up starving at the bottom end with excess up top. More-over - you'll want wider clearances for hard out running. The trick is to drill an extra hole or two in the bearings and groove the saddles the shells sit in..... the top racing engine guys do this - it's their 'secret' for long life, but very few actually know about it. That's how you get an 8 litre motor to rpm to 8000-9500rpm all season and not have any wear - as in zero wear, at least on Redline oil anyway.
Gerald
Enthusiast
ahh grasshopper, quicker, but not faster.. 
Anthony - 98 GTS
Enthusiast
ahh grasshopper, quicker, but not faster..
Agreed - that's why I have the little bottle in back.
I gotta keep you SC guys in check until one of you lays down the smack at the drag strip. God knows your making the power.Torquemonster
Enthusiast
Gerald - lol - a ride in both would soon convince any skeptic a good boosted motor made (MUCH) more power.... grin.
ET is simply how much power got to the track - but for those that are less concerned about that as in having the most incredibile rush possible on 4 wheels there is only one way - BOOST!
ET is simply how much power got to the track - but for those that are less concerned about that as in having the most incredibile rush possible on 4 wheels there is only one way - BOOST!
Daffy Duck Viper
Enthusiast
I'd rather be blown then bottle fed ok
HAH-HAH-HAH!
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jimandela
Enthusiast
if budget was not a issue i would love to own a
Apex, Rsi, or Lingenfelter 750+HP car.
but were talking big bucks... $35K+
Apex, Rsi, or Lingenfelter 750+HP car.
but were talking big bucks... $35K+
Vipermed 97.01
Enthusiast
If you are really set on a stroker Motor it is imperative that you have all of your ducks in a row.
1.Prepare to spend$$$$$$$$$
2.Prepare to seperate yourself from your car for some time
3.It is not as simple as getting a crank and assembling parts.when done properly you will have a strong reliable motor.Block machine work is the crucial key.tolerances have to be perfect.Must be balanced/blueprinted.I started my project with the idea of spending..8-10 grand with myself doing all assembly.I looked at an empty engine compartment for almost 8 months.I ended up spending almost 20k...with myself at the helm(flamsuite donned)I will admit that the finished product produced scary USEABLE power.When i started my project the options that are avail. now to the viper owners were not then.
4.Research.....Research........research,and when you have finished research again
5.The Co. that advertises here the 510 kit(cro...)if you can get them to sell you one,multiply the wait time by 3.
6.I am in no way trashing stroker motors as i have one,just know what you are getting yourself into first.I have seen and heard great outcomes from shops mentioned here.
7. I can honestly say if i had things to do over again i would have gone another route
8.I cannot emphasize enough how crucial the machine work is.
9. prepare to spend $$$$$$
10. Very important thing to remember when building an all motor car....RESALE...It is like selling a house with a pool, it will help sell the house but will not up the price dramatically.Infact sometimes perspective buyers will shy away from these type of cars as they are usually not grocery getters.On the other hand S.Cs tend to add value to the car.but more importantly can be put back to stock relatively easy.Try that with a stroker motor
1.Prepare to spend$$$$$$$$$
2.Prepare to seperate yourself from your car for some time
3.It is not as simple as getting a crank and assembling parts.when done properly you will have a strong reliable motor.Block machine work is the crucial key.tolerances have to be perfect.Must be balanced/blueprinted.I started my project with the idea of spending..8-10 grand with myself doing all assembly.I looked at an empty engine compartment for almost 8 months.I ended up spending almost 20k...with myself at the helm(flamsuite donned)I will admit that the finished product produced scary USEABLE power.When i started my project the options that are avail. now to the viper owners were not then.
4.Research.....Research........research,and when you have finished research again
5.The Co. that advertises here the 510 kit(cro...)if you can get them to sell you one,multiply the wait time by 3.
6.I am in no way trashing stroker motors as i have one,just know what you are getting yourself into first.I have seen and heard great outcomes from shops mentioned here.
7. I can honestly say if i had things to do over again i would have gone another route
8.I cannot emphasize enough how crucial the machine work is.
9. prepare to spend $$$$$$
10. Very important thing to remember when building an all motor car....RESALE...It is like selling a house with a pool, it will help sell the house but will not up the price dramatically.Infact sometimes perspective buyers will shy away from these type of cars as they are usually not grocery getters.On the other hand S.Cs tend to add value to the car.but more importantly can be put back to stock relatively easy.Try that with a stroker motor
MannyC
Enthusiast
Do any local tuners in the Southern California area do this kind of thing? I've not heard of it before. Is this only for Stroker motors or for any motor?
