Subwoofer removal.

iownedu

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I feel really dumb right now. I have the entire back panel removed and the 4 screws removed from the sub. The sub won't come out though! I can only pry it out about a half inch from the enclosure all around it and that's it. Is the magnet glued to the back of the enclosure or something?
 
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iownedu

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So I need to unbolted the enclosure to get at the rear bolt I assume? I'm trying a 2ohm Kicker cvt65. Hopefully the amp can handle 2 ohm.
 

08viperviolet

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Yes you need to remove the complete box. Also you will need to close the port. Let me know how it sounds had jl in last car and liked it but can't find them anymore.
 
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iownedu

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Got it all done, plugged the port and silicone the sub in. It sounds better than the factory sub but its far from awesome. But it is a 6.5" sub. I cranked it for a solid half hour without any problems with the sub being 2ohm.
 

Steve M

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What did you do to plug the port? I have a CDT audio sub on the way that is going in, and I'm going to run it sealed.
 
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iownedu

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What did you do to plug the port? I have a CDT audio sub on the way that is going in, and I'm going to run it sealed.

Let me know which one and how it sounds. I have been running cdt components in my daily drivers for years with elemental design subs.

I plugged the port with a pair of folded black socks lol, sounds ghetto bit it works and was easy. Also reversible since I put the opening of the socks towards the port opening so I can reach in and pull them out. They fit tight and won't push out, no leaks either. I had to silicone the sub and utilize all 8 mounting holes to get it tight to the enclosure.
 

Steve M

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Let me know which one and how it sounds. I have been running cdt components in my daily drivers for years with elemental design subs.

I plugged the port with a pair of folded black socks lol, sounds ghetto bit it works and was easy. Also reversible since I put the opening of the socks towards the port opening so I can reach in and pull them out. They fit tight and won't push out, no leaks either. I had to silicone the sub and utilize all 8 mounting holes to get it tight to the enclosure.

I ordered a CDT M6+ to go in there...the mounting depth is a little more than the stock speaker, but I have a 1/4" MDF speaker ring/spacer being made that should solve any clearance issues (and hopefully won't create any on the front side). I managed to remove the snaked around section of the port inside the box as well, so that will hopefully free up some room in there. It'll be driven with a 140W x 1 amplifier (came with the car), so I'm hoping it sounds decent, but I won't have much to compare it to since the factory sub was unhooked when I bought it, and there was a single 10" in a rather large box sitting in the back that didn't work well due to some wiring issues I'm currently addressing.

Thanks for the idea on blocking off the port.
 
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snakem04

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Got it all done, plugged the port and silicone the sub in. It sounds better than the factory sub but its far from awesome. But it is a 6.5" sub. I cranked it for a solid half hour without any problems with the sub being 2ohm.

iownedu i just bought the same sub for $35 on clearence. I know its only $35 but was the quality over the stock sub worth it. Just trying to see if i got a good deal. Im just hoping to get a little more bass in the car without having to uprade the amp.
 

snakem04

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Does anyone have or know where i can get the specs on the stock sound system in a gen 3. Amp and sub specs mostly? and speakers and tweeters if you have those specs too.
 
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iownedu

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The kicker sub is a little better over stock but not alot. The best upgrade by far was putting kicker ks600's in the doors.
 

MoreBeer

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Link to the $35 sub replacement please? :omg:

I never use my stereo, but the stock sub is blown and I would like to replace it...

-mb
 

MoreBeer

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Thanks! Didn't know if it was an Amazon link or whatnot. Will keep an eye out for that model though if I can get it cheap enough.

-mb
 

snakem04

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By the looks of it kickier and JL audio are the only two companies that make a decent subwoofer. Unless theres other companies i havent noticed.
 

Steve M

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By the looks of it kickier and JL audio are the only two companies that make a decent subwoofer. Unless theres other companies i havent noticed.

They aren't the only ones out there...just the most well known. That, and the current JL offering (6W3v3) has a 4.25" mounting depth, making it about an inch too much for the stock enclosure. Their older design (the 6W3v0) did fit, but they don't make them anymore, unless you can find one used.
 

labtec

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They aren't the only ones out there...just the most well known. That, and the current JL offering (6W3v3) has a 4.25" mounting depth, making it about an inch too much for the stock enclosure. Their older design (the 6W3v0) did fit, but they don't make them anymore, unless you can find one used.

You mention the 6W3v3 does not fit stock enclosure, has this been confirmed? I've had one since Christmas and haven't tried to install it yet.
 

Steve M

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The CDT speaker I referenced above has a mounting depth of 3.37", and it will not fit the stock enclosure without a spacer (and I'll probably end up using a 1/2" spacer to make it work). The JL 6W3v3's mounting depth is 4-3/16", so it really won't fit. The 6W3v0 was closer to 3", so it did fit.
 

labtec

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Thanks for the quick feedback. I wanted to match the JL's in the door but I guess its back to the drawing board.
 

labtec

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Update... I have returned the JL and ordered the Kicker 6.5 from the local audio shop. Guess we'll see how it fits when it arrives.
 

Steve M

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Finally got done installing my CDT M6+ this weekend...it is no 10" sub, but it ain't bad at all.
 
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FrgMstr

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We toyed with building a new box to sit between the seats in the factory stock position. We tried our best to get a true subwoofer sound out of the space but it just was not happening. The Hertz woofer proved to be too anemic for the box and we moved to a JL 8W1v2-4. Still we just could not get the sound out of the box that we wanted although the JL sounded a lot better.
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We ended up using the center console JL as a mid-bass instead of a true sub-woofer. The inclusion of the mid-bass abosolutely ended up KICKING ASS overall as it added a lot of balance to the sound in the cabin, with the top up or down. Probably would have not gone the expense had I known the limitations up front, but we were experimenting with seeing if we could forego the box in the passenger footwell.
 

kllymartin

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As stated above. The best performing spot for a sub in a vert. is in the passenger footwell. Unless you have a 6 footer constanty riding shotgun, leg room shouldn't be an issue.
 

Viktimize

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As stated above. The best performing spot for a sub in a vert. is in the passenger footwell. Unless you have a 6 footer constanty riding shotgun, leg room shouldn't be an issue.

If it has all that leg room, why not just throw it in behind the passenger seat, instead of worrying about who is going to mash it with their feet??
 
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FrgMstr

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If it has all that leg room, why not just throw it in behind the passenger seat, instead of worrying about who is going to mash it with their feet??

I have no worry about it getting mashed at all. Would look pretty damn stupid with the passenger slid all the way up to the dash though....
 
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