T&D R/R Installation question

[mntngts99]

In order to get perfect geometry on my T&D R/R's I need to mill 5/64 off my stud bosses. I have read as many post's on R/R's that I can find and all have stated that most have to shim for proper geometry.

For those who have experience with R/R's what tolerance +/- is there for the correct or acceptable geometry.

TIA

 

[99 R/T 10]

Hey Brad,
On stock cars, you can usually just bolt the RR right up and witht eh correct length pushrod have the correct geometry. The shims are there for those that might have milled the base of the head which would require the use of the shims for the correct geometry.

 

[GTS Bruce]

Get rid of the T&D and get Jesel.Ask Tator. Bruce

 

[mntngts99]

Thanks Mike

Get rid of the T&D and get Jesel.Ask Tator. Bruce

Bruce should I get rid of my ROE too and go with a Paxton

 

[grcforce327]

Thanks Mike

Get rid of the T&D and get Jesel.Ask Tator. Bruce

Bruce should I get rid of my ROE too and go with a Paxton

Get the jesels and then go TT !!!

 

[Jack B]

Mntngts99;

The flat geometry you are referring to is important, but, I believe sometimes it is overlooked in lieu of the centering geometry of the roller on the valve. In other words you want the pattern of the roller over a complete revolution to be centered. Take a look in "My Gallerty" for the centered pattern on the valve tip.

In affect, your stand height is approximatley 1/16" high, but, the new push rod length will compensate. This could be an issue if the roller pattern did not center on the valve tip, however, if the roller is centered over the full movement, what could the issue be. I would love to have T&D comment on this, since the large majority of cars do not mill the stands.