To start it or not that is the question..................

wormdoggy

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I have heard so many different theories with respect to engines and automotive storage for a long periods. Long periods meaning more then say 2-4 months.

The first therory is that you should always attempt to start the engine while the car is stored. At least once a month in order to get fresh oil into the engine components.

While the other theory is that condensation is the problem and the operating temperature during engine idling will never reach peak temps to burn the condensation. Hence, the theory is do not attempt to start the car until you are ready to take it for a long drive.

So which one is best...............? Majority wins and thats what I'm going to do during winter storage.

Thanks guys
Patrick
 

Cris

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While the other theory is that condensation is the problem and the operating temperature during engine idling will never reach peak temps to burn the condensation. Hence, the theory is do not attempt to start the car until you are ready to take it for a long drive.

I agree. Oil film will easily last the 3 to 4 months at rest. Just make sure car is clean, polished and battery kept charged. Only other thing I do is to air up the tires.
 

GTSPOWERED

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I store my GTS in a car capsule for the winter months it keeps the all the nasty stuff off the car and the manufacture of the capsule states that the pressured and moving air will help keep condition from forming. This might also help with the motor collecting condition.

Patrick Mathias.
 

Finally got it !

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Top off all fluids.
Change oil.
Put stabilizer in gas tank.
Take out battery. Although in the srt-10 it has a battery saver mode.
Tennis balls in exhaust pipes.
Moth balls on engine and in car.
Crack open windows a bit.
Car put away spotless.
Cover goes on.
Good night until spring........
 

steve911

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I quit using mothballs several years ago. Couldn't stand the smell. I saw a tip at another car web site about using dryer sheets.

I put them in and around the car. No problems at all. And yes here in the midwest mice are a problem in the winter especially if you have a warm garage.
 

HSSSTOY

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"The first therory is that you should always attempt to start the engine while the car is stored. At least once a month in order to get fresh oil into the engine components."


Adding the following to others previous comments.

Starting the engine does not only oil your engine and lubricate the seals and that is the key word the SEALS...water pump seals, air conditioning seals, power steering seals etc.....dry seals may cause potential leaks. Also while the engine is running, rolling the car back and forth about 6 feet will submerse the exposed gears in the diff. fluids and keeps it from rusting. Once the engine reaches operating temperature there should be minimal condensation left. In favour of operating the engine based on above observations.
 

Racer Robbie

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with the exception of the mothballs everyone is correct. Never leave the car on its tires. Go to a marine supply store and buy yourself a couple of Golden Rods which plug in and eliminate mosture. Boat US, West Marine, and Boat World sell them.
 
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wormdoggy

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"The first therory is that you should always attempt to start the engine while the car is stored. At least once a month in order to get fresh oil into the engine components."


Adding the following to others previous comments.

Starting the engine does not only oil your engine and lubricate the seals and that is the key word the SEALS...water pump seals, air conditioning seals, power steering seals etc.....dry seals may cause potential leaks. Also while the engine is running, rolling the car back and forth about 6 feet will submerse the exposed gears in the diff. fluids and keeps it from rusting. Once the engine reaches operating temperature there should be minimal condensation left. In favour of operating the engine based on above observations.

Hmmmmmmmm..............interesting does anyone know at what point the seals begin to dry out? I guess it also depends on where you store the car as well. I did all the above and went a little further by insulating the floor and applying a vapour barrier and placing the car on plywood. Also I insulated the garage and heat it at 55 degrees the entire term of winter. From what I saw last year the electrical bill only increased $ 15.00 per month.
 

VipeRicK

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Another fact regarding long term storage of the SRT 10 with our run flats. I believe the manual tells you to place all your tires on plywood that has been covered with carpet. This is suppose to prevent flat spots if the car is not moved for long periods of time. Anybody else aware of this or had flat spot tire problems?
 

Racer Robbie

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I have my viper in the shop and it sits there for a month at a time.On a nice day I will take it out for a few hours.

Wormdoggy. What you say about seals and rusty parts has some merit but we are olny taliking 3-4 months storage which will not cause any problems if you are using top grade lubricants like Royal Purple or Amsoil. I prefer Roayl Purple. Just change all the fluids including the antifreeze and you will be ok. Another way to avoid changing the antifreeze is to buy a radiator cap that has an anoid in it so it eliminated galvianic corrosion. I own a 1994 Rosborough Trawler with diesel engine and a 1977 Shamrock fishing boat with a Ford gas engine in it. Both of these boats I bought new and both have been running Royal Purple or Amsoil from the day they were new. Now they run only Royal Purple. They both have run in salt water from day one. They are both stored outside from October until May each winter, here in Northern New England, with tempertures that get doen to 15 below zero. Both boats have nere had any internal work done to them, they do not burn or leat any oil,and they run like new. I hope this will put everyones worries t rest. As far as tires are concerned I always jack the back of the car up after every use until the tires clear the ground as this takes the weight off of the rear suspension. This would be a good idea for winter storage for both the front and the rear.
 
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