What's the best way to drain the cooling system? Also ques on the rubber oring..

[Qualitywires.com]

What\'s the best way to drain the cooling system? Also ques on the rubber oring..

I read the service part of this site, but still confused on the draining and filling process. I will order the Scrader valve system, but where would I drain the coolent from? Where do I fill it from and when the valves are on, is it simply just heating the engine up and letting the pressurized air through the valves and then filling the overflow bottle up and when the engine cools down it will **** in what it needs? Sorry for the long post....oh..yeah..one more thing..since I have a 1994..will changing the coolent also help preserve the rubber orings? is there a cure for those orings..I heard lambo design and they will eventually fail and cause sleeve movements..any idea's what the permanent fix is too?

thanks!

 

[Jim Sullivan]

Re: What\'s the best way to drain the cooling system? Also ques on the rubber oring..

I too have a 94 and I had to drain the radiator using the bottom radiator hose as the radiator drain plug was frozen in place. I also took out one block plug and that seemed to get out all the old anti-freeze. I too thought of using the new 5 year anti-freeze but was discouraged by Dodge and this Web site because Dodge wants the block and radiator drained every two years. Not a big job just messy.

 

[Qualitywires.com]

Re: What\'s the best way to drain the cooling system? Also ques on the rubber oring..

Thanks for taking the time to write that!

 

[Ron]

Re: What\'s the best way to drain the cooling system? Also ques on the rubber oring..

<FONT face="Comic Sans MS">I used Jerry's approach with my 1996 GTS with a few modifications.

There is a bleeder plug in the top of the thermostat housing. (don't know if GEN I's have it though). Removing that on the fill will enable the thermostat to open earlier as it's in contact with the warming water. Otherwise the thermostat is somewhat air bound and you'll find the engine gets quite hot (rad fan at high speed) before the thermostat opens.

I mixed the coolant 50:50 with distilled water before adding it to the rad. This way there is no chance for the ratio to be out of wack. I also used Texaco Dexcool which in my opinion is superior to conventional coolant in every way. It does require a proper flushing (I did three clean flushes) though to be most effective. Since I live in a very hard water area, I even flush with distilled water.

Lastly, while I agree with Jerry, I did pull the engine block drains and they sealed back up fine. It's an odd sized square female plug (as is the thermostat bleeder) so I had to make a tool to remove it myself from a donor 3/8" extension. </FONT f>

 

[BWoodbury]

Re: What\'s the best way to drain the cooling system? Also ques on the rubber oring..

If you are going to drain and fill I would recomend adding Sean Roe'e silicone hoses while you're at it. I just got my set a week ago and they look great. I'll be draining and filling myself next week...

 

[Jerry Scott[CO]]

Re: What\'s the best way to drain the cooling system? Also ques on the rubber oring..

Here's the way I did it to my 97 GTS.

1. Put the car on jack stands 17 in. off the ground.

2. With the system cool, remove the fill cap. Open the heater temperature control to full open. Remove the plug in the radiator with an Allen wrench, by slightly tightening it first, then removing it after it breaks loose. This will drain approximately 9 quarts of the total 12.8 quart system.

3. Pull the overflow hose off the surge tank, insert a 3/8 in. o.d. clear Tygon hose into the rubber hose and syphon the coolant out of the overflow tank. I was concerned about removing the plugs in the block and getting a good seal, so I did not drain the block, since I felt it unnecessary.

4. Replace the plug in the radiator, fill the surge tank and radiator with 2 gallons of clean water.

5. Replace the cap and run the engine with the heater control fully open, until the thermostat opens and all the fluid is mixed.

6. Shut off the engine and after the system cools, open the radiator drain plug and drain again.

7. Repeat steps: 4, 5, and 6.

8. Replace the radiator drain plug for the last time with anti-seize compound and fill the surge tank with 7 or 8 quarts of new coolant (I used 8 quarts). I used the Mopar extended life, but I have heard that Havoline makes a very good coolant that NASCAR uses. Also add one 12 oz. bottle of Red Line Water Wetter. Fill the surge tank half full with water.

9. Squeeze the top radiator repeatedly until you get no more air bubbling out of the surge tank.

10. Put a funnel into the overflow bottle hose and fill with about 1 quart of water. Top the surge tank with water, put on the cap and run the engine until the system is hot.

11. Let the system cool, remove the surge tank cap, fill to the top with water. Again using the funnel in the hose, fill the overflow tank with water so that it is between the two marks in the wheel opening. Reconnect the hose to the surge tank, replace the cap to the surge tank, and the procedure is completed. This was my way and I'm sure others will have their own way of getting this done.

 

[Jack B]

Re: What\'s the best way to drain the cooling system? Also ques on the rubber oring..

One more method - a bit simpler and removes all the anti-freeze. Drain the radiator at the lower drivers side with an allen key. Install a Prestone flush kit at the heater core intake. It is located on top of the heater assembly, under the hood on the passengers side.

Now open the cap on the coolant bottle, also turn the heater temp setting to full hot. Attach a garden hose with a minimal flow and the coolant will flow out the radiator and coolant bottle. When it runs clear cap the flush kit. It is a permanent install and can be used for your next flush.

Mix a 50/50 solution of anti-freeze and you are ready to fill and burp the system. There is a detailed procedure on the VCA home page.

 

[Robert1994]

Re: What\'s the best way to drain the cooling system? Also ques on the rubber oring..

OK ! Finally I can offer, instead of asking ! You may have
read about or already be familiar with electrolysis as a detrimental factor in alloy engines. The more alloy (aluminum, magnesium and other exotics) the more widespread the damage.
Hi-Amp electrical systems (necessary to afford V-10 cylinder cranking power, after-market stereos, etc.) causes a constant
high voltage electrical force. This current always attacks and leaches off the "softest" material in the charging system, which always suffers the most damage. Anybody that has seen a used Mopar, Buick, Ford or Toyota timing chain cover knows what I'm talking about. We offer a sacrificial anode that once introduced to the cooling system (via the radiator cap) porously becomes the weakest link in the complete electrical system. Spend a few dollars on a RAD CAP and save thousands in not so down the road costs. Also available for most other all other applications.
About $19.95 per cap.
Thanks, Robert

 

[Doug Supercharged Vipers]

Re: What\'s the best way to drain the cooling system? Also ques on the rubber oring..

Robert -
The anode or zinc is a good idea to counter the detrimental effects of electrolysis or galvanic corrosion, a very good idea!

Us old boat guys just like to call them zinc's.

Most coolants today if changed regularly, do have additives to help fight this phenomena, of course the anode will help as the "sacrificial lamb." But, as we see more often than not, most people negate to follow this schedule.

My question is:
How often do you need to replace the ailing anode?
I would surmise the anode to last about four to six weeks with the presence of electrolysis. Would you have to replace the whole cap? -or- Just screw in a new anode?

Thanks,
Doug

 

[kverges]

Re: What\'s the best way to drain the cooling system? Also ques on the rubber oring..

Shameless plug, but:

Refilling and subsequent checking and service is a lot easier with:
http://www.viperclub.org/news/bleedersannouncement.html

Shameless plug over now.

Keith