RE: Question on Clutches

[YELLOH]

Hi Guys : I have an SRT-10 and after this season I will need to replace my clutch.I don't have a supercharger ( yet)but do like to track my car and autocross any chance I get .I'm not sure if it matters but have an aluminum flywheel.I was wondering what people were using when it was time to replace there clutch.Thanks RICK

 

[NoRice]

My McCleod twin disc feels like a stock clutch. If you plan on upgrading to the supercharger then get the MIBA one.

 

[Racer Robbie]

Hi Rick,

You might want to look into Centerforce also as they add more and more pressure on the clutch disc as the engine RPM's go up.

See http://www.centerforce.com/ as they have a lot of usefull information there.

Your friend,

Robbie

 

[ILLSMOQ]

Another vote for McLeod. The street twin might be over kill and it's heavier. McLeod Clutches

Centerforce gets a thumbs down.

 

[Joseph Dell]

The McLeod is an excellent choice, but it is a bit overkill for what you're needing. A Spec 3 or Spec 3+ would do nicely. I am not a fan of the centerforce either, BTW.

Good experience w/ the SPEC's... bad experience w/ RPS stuff. run away fast from that garbage.

Good luck!

JD

 

[Bill Pemberton Woodhouse]

Not sure why you said you need to change your clutch , but we have had two customers in just in the past 4 months, thinking they needed a new clutch & both even authorized us to do so. This would be carte blanche for most Dealers to begin the install, but before you begin down this road , please check your clutch fluid. In both cases listed above the fluid was low and the color of tar. A flush and refill not only was necessary, but the clutches mysteriously became brand new. We have not replaced either at this point. It may not be the case in your situation, but it is sure worth a look.

Those that autocross , do time trials , etc. often are good at changing fluids at a more frequent interval, we have just seen this area as one that gets neglected.

Best Regards,
Bill Pemberton
Woodhouse

 

[Viper X]

If your car is mostly stock, the OE clutch works very well.

Bill's advice is good (as usual), change your clutch fluid to a high quality synthetic like Motul 600, Neo, etc. and make sure to bleed the slave / lines correctly and your clutch issues will likely go away.

I had good luck with the Centerforce Dual Friction set up. Couldn't wear it out, though it always felt a little light, it never slipped.

I'm running the Mcleod twin disk with their pp and flywheel and it's got a bit of a long engagement feel to it. It's also now becoming a bit noisy at 7000 miles. I'll be seeing them next week for their opinion of the noise and let you guys know.

Dan

 

[YELLOH]

My McCleod twin disc feels like a stock clutch. If you plan on upgrading to the supercharger then get the MIBA one.

Thankyou for the info I met you at VOI 9 is this Jay

 

[YELLOH]

Thanks Bill, that will be the first thing I do.After the VOI I really noticed a difference in my clutch pedal.It only make sense.Thanks Rick

 

[YELLOH]

Thanks Dan, thanks for the info.I'm going to have the dealership change fluid ASAP.We met at the VOI 9 on the dragstrip,Art introduced us from your club.We were talking about your wife having a better drag time,OOPS did I say that out loud LOL.She is a good driver,Thanks again for all the info.RICK

 

[NoRice]

My McCleod twin disc feels like a stock clutch. If you plan on upgrading to the supercharger then get the MIBA one.

Thankyou for the info I met you at VOI 9 is this Jay

It's James, we went to the races on Sat. and hung out for a few at the BBQ and chased you back to Vegas from the BBQ.

 

[Racer Robbie]

Hey Yelloh, are you going up to Chuck Tator's tech sessuion this Saturday? Jack, Randy, Pete, and I are going to be there.

Robbie

 

[Racer Robbie]

Bill,

Thanks for your honesty. As you said above, a lot of dealers would have taken the customers money and replaced the clutch.

 

[jpas]

The McLeod dual disk is a great clutch, it is expensive, however it is also rebuildable.

I heard the Star (SPEC) has just released a dual disk setup for the viper as well.

If expense is not an issue, the ultimate setup is the Tilton multi disk.

 

[Joseph Dell]

Spec did just release their clutch. I think I have the 1st. Maybe the 2nd. Pics and info are here: http://www4.forum.viperclub.org/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=749345&Main=749345#Post749345 .

RE: the tilton: i have heard (no 1st hand experience here) that the tilton needs to be re-adjusted every few thousand miles. not sure if this is true or not.

the SPEC is suppose to be rebuildable as well. haven't gotten to the point where i need to yet, though (still installing).

JD

 

[jpas]

That SPEC setup looks great, I will have to check it out once I complete my TT setup.

 

[Viper Specialty]

Spec did just release their clutch. I think I have the 1st. Maybe the 2nd. Pics and info are here: http://www4.forum.viperclub.org/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=749345&Main=749345#Post749345 .

RE: the tilton: i have heard (no 1st hand experience here) that the tilton needs to be re-adjusted every few thousand miles. not sure if this is true or not.

the SPEC is suppose to be rebuildable as well. haven't gotten to the point where i need to yet, though (still installing).

JD

Just stumbled accross this post looking for another so I figured I would comment.

The Tilton series clutches require a wear plate to be installed in them once they exceed a certain amount of wear, no actual adustment is needed. Its a simple unbolt, measure, swap plate, rebolt procedure. After you do it two times or so, you will know exactly what kind of interval you personally are getting, and then it becomes routine maintenance- for most people, it will be seasonal or bi-seasonal. Whether the clutch is metallic or carbon will dictate how quickly this happens. While I have no experience with a Metallic Clutch for street use and approximate intervals, it could be expected that a Carbon Clutch could see 7-10K miles per interval, depending of course on driving type. If you have tons of highway miles, you could go much, much further- the opposite it true if you 1/4 your car 100x a day. Roughly, each wear interval is equivalent to the life of other "High Capacity" clutches out there. There is plenty of cushion, as the wear interval is .025, though .040 can wear before much slippage will occur- perhaps longer if you arent even close to the clutches ultimate "new" capacity.

The clutch can wear a total of 3x before a rebuild is needed, which costs roughly 5-10% of the new cost of the clutch. This is where the Tilton shines. While it has a LARGE inital investment of 5 grand or so, from then on, you have tilton quality at close to OEM clutch pricing. You are paying roughly 400-600 bucks for 3 wear intervals on a Tilton, which is dirt cheap by any standards, especiallty considering what exactly the clutch is capable of. This is also not a clutch you sell your car with. You keep that clutch and put something stock back in, and transfer it to your next car, even the generations to come will be adaptable in short order. The clutch pack itself is fairly universal and rebuildable, and will fit any Viper generation, as well as hundreds of others. It is all of the peripherals that dictate the application. (Flywheel, T/O Bearing, Master, Bolt kits, etc)