Mobile 1 syn racing oil 15-50

[Art 138]

With the scarcity of Mobile 1 oils anything wrong with using Mobile1 syn racing oil 15-50 which is always available at Walmart. Can it be substituted for 0-40 (hard to find) in warm temp.....? anybody know?

 

[Shandon]

I use Motul 15/50 300V oil.

Bend over and grab your ankles when you see the cost. The Tins that it comes in are cool though hehehhe. It's highly recommended at Viperdays. I order it online from some place I have saved on my PC at work. Anyway its another option for you.

 

[plumcrazy]

art, talk to DLM. he told mne to use 15/50 specifically. but each engine is different

 

[Tom F&L GoR]

Mobil starting their "Racing" line with a 0W-30. The main characteristic was a high level of zinc dialkyldithiophosphate (ZDDP), the phosphourus-containing anti-wear additive that the car companies believe poisons the catalytic converter. If similar, the Racing 15W50 will also have high ZDDP and while your engine will like it, if you have any concerns over the longevity of the catalysts or of questios from your dealer, you might want to think about it.

Diesel engine oils have high ZDDP, come in 5W-40 synthetic, and are very similar cost to passenger car oils (despite all the extra additive inside.) Mobil makes one called Mobil Delvac 1.

The 15W-xx low temperature starting performance will be good for down to -20C (0W-xx is good for -35C) which is unlikely in Florida.

Motul uses a synthetic ester to a large percentage vs. the typical Group III or polyalphaolefin base oils as in more common synthetic formulations. Esters are polar and so have an affinity for metal surfaces. Therefore they exhibit somewhat better boundary lubrication performance, although I would describe that as more and more insurance against catastrophe, not a horsepower gain.

 

[Martin]

As Tom mentioned above, the diesel oils are great for most applications. I run Rotella T Synthetic in everything but the Viper (I know, not a 'true' synthetic, but it's a great value nonetheless). Diesel engines are much harsher environments than your typical gas engine, and those oils are made to handle it with ease.

In the Viper, I've always run Red Line 10w/40. Again, as Tom mentioned, the oil is ester based - which has a polar property and therefore 'sticks' to metal a lot better than most other oils. If your car isn't driven a lot, that polar quality can help keep a film of oil on your cylinder sleeves which helps with corrosion inhibition and dry-start lubrication.

I won't run most 'race oils' in any street cars because they typically lack the additive package needed to keep a normal drain interval street car protected. They tend to go for minimum friction and trade off the typical additive package benefits. I don't know anything about M1 race oils, though.

 

[cheryl mccally]

I love Motul 15W 50 and John Archer will ship you a whole case. Motul RBF 600 brake fluid is super too.

 

[Art 138]

good feedback, thks

 

[triblk6spd]

I use Motul 15/50 300V oil.

Bend over and grab your ankles when you see the cost. The Tins that it comes in are cool though hehehhe. It's highly recommended at Viperdays. I order it online from some place I have saved on my PC at work. Anyway its another option for you.

Why 15/50 and not the 10/40 they offer?

 

[treesnake]

Mobil starting their "Racing" line with a 0W-30. The main characteristic was a high level of zinc dialkyldithiophosphate (ZDDP), the phosphourus-containing anti-wear additive that the car companies believe poisons the catalytic converter. If similar, the Racing 15W50 will also have high ZDDP and while your engine will like it, if you have any concerns over the longevity of the catalysts or of questios from your dealer, you might want to think about it.

Diesel engine oils have high ZDDP, come in 5W-40 synthetic, and are very similar cost to passenger car oils (despite all the extra additive inside.) Mobil makes one called Mobil Delvac 1.

The 15W-xx low temperature starting performance will be good for down to -20C (0W-xx is good for -35C) which is unlikely in Florida.

Motul uses a synthetic ester to a large percentage vs. the typical Group III or polyalphaolefin base oils as in more common synthetic formulations. Esters are polar and so have an affinity for metal surfaces. Therefore they exhibit somewhat better boundary lubrication performance, although I would describe that as more and more insurance against catastrophe, not a horsepower gain.

Tom
What brand and weight oil do you use?

 

[Tom F&L GoR]

I use any mineral oil diesel 15W-40 that Walmart has. Chevron Delo, Shell Rotella, Mobil Delvac all are shelved periodically.


Reasons:

• a 15W-xx provides enough low temperature starting for my upstate NY area
• the 40 is enough for my oil temperatures and engine load (408/480 RWHP/TQ)
• as an ex-formulator for Texaco, I believe the additives are key and diesel oils have 2.5X the additives that are in passenger car oils.
• synthetics have extremely low and high temp capability, but I don't start at -40C nor run at 250C. Who does?
• Synthetics can provide a much wider viscosity range, but in sponsoring CART (became CCWS, then IRL ) teams the difference between a 20W-50 and a 0W-20 oil in an 18,000 RPM 850 hp engine was 13HP. I think it was mostly windage, so a 6000 RPM engine might see only a few HP.

For the lower cost, convenience, greater protection I will take the 15W-40 and give up the 2 HP. There are 5W-40 diesel synthetic oils that I believe is an "ideal" viscosity grade but I'm cheap and only get that once it a while.

 

[Martin]

There are 5W-40 diesel synthetic oils that I believe is an "ideal" viscosity grade but I'm cheap and only get that once it a while.

Tom, you crack me up! That 5w/40 Rotella T Synthetic at wally mart is just $14 a gallon, and sometimes a lot cheaper. It's my favorite by far - perfect fleet fill and it's never let me down. I even run a New Holland TLB with it, and it has kept the turbo clean and happy (no coking at all). I still can't bring myself to run it in my Viper, but for everythging else it is more than enough.

 

[99 R/T 10]

Here's a question Tom and correct me if I am wrong(and I know you will ), but the Synthetics don't Coke/cake-up like the mineral oils do, or am I wrong?

As an example, the 1999/2000 Dodge durangos(I think) had a problem with the mineral base oil baking on the bottom of the intake because it got so hot, then we the crap would come loose, it will plug the oilpump screen and starve the engine of oil. My point is, if the Durango had used a Synthetic oil, this would not have happened and as such, wouldn't Synthetics be better for that alone?

Of course I realize that Synthetic Diesel oil would be the best period.

 

[Tom F&L GoR]

Here's a question Tom and correct me if I am wrong(and I know you will ), but the Synthetics don't Coke/cake-up like the mineral oils do, or am I wrong?

As an example, the 1999/2000 Dodge durangos(I think) had a problem with the mineral base oil baking on the bottom of the intake because it got so hot, then we the crap would come loose, it will plus the oilpump screen and starve the engine of oit. My point is, if the Durango had used a Synthetic oil, this would not have happened and as such, wouldn't Synthetics be better for that alone?

Of course I realize that Synthetic Diesel oil would be the best period.

The answer is maybe-probably. Everyone believes that "synthetic" provides higher temperature deposit performance, but "synthetic" is merely a description of the base oil used. The fluid you use is a base oil (synthetic or mineral) plus additives (9% to 20% of the quart). A well-fortified mineral oil (my cheap diesel oil) will do better than a thinly treated synthetic (store brand passenger car synthetic.)

Unadditized synthetic base oil is not good at resisting oxidation; however it responds well to anti-oxidants. (Oxidation is the process of baking...) Mineral oil needs more anti-oxidant to perform as well. I'll modify my original answer and say that a synthetic oil "should" do better, especially given the oil marketer's general theme that synthetics protect better under temperature extremes, but then you are relying on the marketer's good will more than on better fluid technology.

 

[treesnake]

I use any mineral oil diesel 15W-40 that Walmart has. Chevron Delo, Shell Rotella, Mobil Delvac all are shelved periodically.



Reasons:

• a 15W-xx provides enough low temperature starting for my upstate NY area
• the 40 is enough for my oil temperatures and engine load (408/480 RWHP/TQ)
• as an ex-formulator for Texaco, I believe the additives are key and diesel oils have 2.5X the additives that are in passenger car oils.
• synthetics have extremely low and high temp capability, but I don't start at -40C nor run at 250C. Who does?
• Synthetics can provide a much wider viscosity range, but in sponsoring CART (became CCWS, then IRL ) teams the difference between a 20W-50 and a 0W-20 oil in an 18,000 RPM 850 hp engine was 13HP. I think it was mostly windage, so a 6000 RPM engine might see only a few HP.

For the lower cost, convenience, greater protection I will take the 15W-40 and give up the 2 HP. There are 5W-40 diesel synthetic oils that I believe is an "ideal" viscosity grade but I'm cheap and only get that once it a while.

Thank you..

 

[Art 138]

This is what the SRT Engineers commented today at another SRT forum:

"
Re: SRT Chat Session - Wednesday (Feb 18) 6pm to 8pm EST
Mobil-1 products are hard to beat. There's a reason it's spec'd for SRT's and other high perf cars. We know the 0W40 Mobil-1 works. Best bet is stick with the Mobil-1 brand. If you can't find 0W40, try 5W40. If you're lucky enough to live where it never gets cold, you could try 15W50 (but you may notice worse fuel economy). We're told (but haven't confirmed) that Shell Pennzoil Platinum 5W40 is good stuff, too.

================================================== ==
Quote:
Originally Posted by Art138

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With the scarcity of 0-40 Mobile 1 what is a good alternative in between....

 

[plumcrazy]

im betting SRT gets a kickback on mobile 1 oils, thats why they use it...just my opinion.

i seriously doubt anyone at SRT knows more about oil than our resident fuel and lubes geek

 

[Tom F&L GoR]

This is what the SRT Engineers commented today at another SRT forum:

"
Re: SRT Chat Session - Wednesday (Feb 18) 6pm to 8pm EST
Mobil-1 products are hard to beat. There's a reason it's spec'd for SRT's and other high perf cars. We know the 0W40 Mobil-1 works. Best bet is stick with the Mobil-1 brand. If you can't find 0W40, try 5W40. If you're lucky enough to live where it never gets cold, you could try 15W50 (but you may notice worse fuel economy). We're told (but haven't confirmed) that Shell Pennzoil Platinum 5W40 is good stuff, too.

================================================== ==
Quote:
Originally Posted by Art138

You must be registered for see images

With the scarcity of 0-40 Mobile 1 what is a good alternative in between....

Oh please, the reason it's spec'd is because Mobil pays for the marketing benefit to plaster their name on the oil fill cap and in advertising. Many other oils meet the Chrysler (Viper), GM (Corvette), Porsche, BMW, etc, etc specs.

The Mobil 1 0W-40 is a Euro-spec product for passenger car use. This includes gasoline and light duty diesel. They didn't say which 5W-40, but Mobil 1 5W-40 ESP is available from Mercedes Benz dealers only and meets a very specific MB performance level. Mobil 1 5W-40 is also the diesel truck oil. Finally, Shell PZ Platinum 5W-40 is again a Euro-formulation to meet some diesel requirements. I hope everyone sees the trend towards diesel performance claims being a sign of superiority and that it is delivered by the additives and not the base oil.

 

[plumcrazy]

lol, thats what i said !!!

 

[lagalaxy13]

I just picked up the 0-40 Mobil at walmart. $27 for a gallon. Damn. So basically $75 for a oil change and that's doing it myself. But from what I have been reading on here so far that is the oil that "we should use". I'm open to anything. I normally use the cheap Walmart & oil for everything else I drive and have never had a problem. Oil changes are the key.

 

[RayC]

Tom, I'm curious what would you recommend for cars that are stored for an extended time (over 1 year) and the oil change interval if not being driven?

 

[Tom F&L GoR]

Tom, I'm curious what would you recommend for cars that are stored for an extended time (over 1 year) and the oil change interval if not being driven?

SAE 5W-20
3 years.

It's actually more fortified with additives (especially anti-oxidants) than 5W30 and 10W30 and it will pump quickly and minimize the clatter when you do start it. When you do start it, it will be "cold" and there's no need to get nervous about it being too thin. It would be fine for moving the car around as well. Don't do any track time.

This, by the way, is the factory fill oil for all HEMI engines. No, I don't think the synthetic 0W-20 is any better.

 

[alpine7822]

I picked up a nice stash of Mobil 1 when Advance had the buy 6 quarts and get a free Mobil 1 filter deal. I changed the oil in November, and have driven the Viper sparingly over the winter (about every 2 weeks or so, for 20-30 minutes each time, more if a nice day). I haven't put more than 300 miles on it since November. Should I change the oil once spring rolls around, or would it be okay to get to about 3000 miles before I change it?

 

[Tom F&L GoR]

I picked up a nice stash of Mobil 1 when Advance had the buy 6 quarts and get a free Mobil 1 filter deal. I changed the oil in November, and have driven the Viper sparingly over the winter (about every 2 weeks or so, for 20-30 minutes each time, more if a nice day). I haven't put more than 300 miles on it since November. Should I change the oil once spring rolls around, or would it be okay to get to about 3000 miles before I change it?

It'll be fine for more than 3000 miles.

 

[georgethedog]

Great information and interesting reading. However, the bottom line is what? In other words, what should a guy put in his Viper? Like me, I have a Gen 1 with 17,000 miles and I am going to change the oil this spring when I take it out. What should I use?

 

[Martin]

I was at Wal Mart today, and they had the Mobil 1 5W-40 diesel oil for $26 a jug, so I'm going with Tom's recommendation and that's what I'll be running.

 

[Tom F&L GoR]

Martin, and all, the 5W40 synthetic diesel is the best oil I can think of. It's not even that expensive...

 

[lagalaxy13]

I was at Wal Mart today, and they had the Mobil 1 5W-40 diesel oil for $26 a jug, so I'm going with Tom's recommendation and that's what I'll be running.

That's the same price for the Mobil 1 0w-30. You guys wer talking about cost too, but it's the same.

 

[Tom F&L GoR]

That's the same price for the Mobil 1 0w-30. You guys wer talking about cost too, but it's the same.

Yup, that's my point. Mobil for passenger cars has to support all that NASCAR stuff, buy the oil fill caps for Vipers and Corvettes, etc, etc. Shall we guess at $20MM a year total, and they sell about 40MM gallons? So that's $0.50/gallon to advertising...

Mobil diesel pays for ... magazines while the driver is working? Maybe a few truck stop ads? It's sold on performance and service.

It works out - diesel oil has 2X more additive, more expensive test criteria, but still cheaper than passenger car oil because they don't (can't) advertise in expensive arenas. I was at Texaco when the Havoline Racing budget used to be spread over all lubricants. The commercial guys objected and finally won. Suddenly Havoline didn't look so profitable anymore and diesel oil seemed like a really great product line.

 

[hou99gts]

Martin, and all, the 5W40 synthetic diesel is the best oil I can think of. It's not even that expensive...

Tom, can (should) I run this oil in my Hemi also (5W20 is factory as you said)? It would be nice to buy the same oil for my truck and 2 Vipers. Thanks!

 

[Martin]

Tom, can (should) I run this oil in my Hemi also (5W20 is factory as you said)? It would be nice to buy the same oil for my truck and 2 Vipers. Thanks!

Wow, a 5w20 factory fill? That's either a VERY tight-toleranced engine, or someone wearing a suit was trying to squeeze a few more MPG out of the car for EPA tests...