I bet you could probably make a little fixture to make gluing things on straight a little easier. I could see a simple channel the width of the metal blade back with a slot cut down the middle that would hold the rubber portion. Set the rubber in the slot, put glue on the back, then line the...
I believe they make seat lowering kits for the gen 3/4 cars. I find my mom's gen 1 to sit higher than my gen 3, but some of that might just be down to how the seat is adjusted. Depends on where your length is in your height though. I actually move my seat forward a bit so I can recline it...
In that case I would likely agree with him. That was one reason I was happy I could make the stock lines work with some mods. The factory setup is clamped and routed nicely.
You can direct swap a gen 4 rear into a gen 3 as well. I did that with mine after I thought I was hearing some slight whining after an incident I had. Might be cheaper than a rebuilt depending on how you rebuild it at least.
Wow, never seen anything like that before. I would guess that could have something to do with the exhaust issue. Those are side fed injectors, and by the look of it the crack joins the feed port and the nozzle port, so when that system is under pressure it could be dumping fuel straight from...
Awesome work! Glad to see someone has potentially finally cracked the code for restoring those dashes. I know the gen 3 and 4 also have a semi soft touch kind of paint on some of the black plastic parts. I don't think it's quite as rubbery as the original stuff, but thinking this might be a...
I believe the water temp is in the thermostat housing at the top of the engine. It is on the 8.3 at least. I know the timing cover changed between them, but guessing it's still in roughly the same area. I believe oil temp is next to the pressure sensor at the front passenger side as well...
The power steering hoses themselves I've never heard of leaking, it was only the fitting at the pump itself that seemed to be a problem. I greatly preferred the partial hard line / partial flex hose setup of the original as it routed much better in my case, but then again I really do think I...
I don't know that any aftermarket companies actually make blades that are a direct fit. Rockauto lists Hella blades and Mopar, but the Hella picture at least is a conventional blade, so I don't think it will work. Maybe I'm wrong, but I don't think I've ever seen anything but Mopar in the...
Is there a reason he discouraged the replacement lines? I have my own reasons for not liking them, but ended up going a hybrid route. I bought the full JTSVP kit originally, but in the end the only thing I actually used is the adapter for the pump to convert the output to AN. I think I got...
Can you still get Syntorq? My understanding was that Castrol was discontinuing it, but maybe that has changed. I've always run it since it was the stock fill for my generation at least and I liked the idea of the better protection over ATF. I asked Tremec about it and they just suggested ATF...
I think the regional forums technically still exist, but are more for archives than anything else at this point. The main generational forums and Facebook page have been the go to places for things lately.
I know that feeling. At this point I almost feel like I should name mine Phoenix... Had one "off-road incident" that didn't hurt it too much, but left some noticeable "features" in the floor pans are required a new rear panel and bumper to fix. The other rebuilds have just been engine related...
Yeah, my setup and the pictures I posted at the very beginning of this thread are actually the inside of the switch box. I think some of the caster brackets are actually already steel to begin with. Some of mine are aluminum and some are steel at least.
I mostly just got into the idea because...
I think it comes down to how they want to align them. The service manual alignment process uses fixtures that attach to the sides of the knuckles to measure caster and require the dealer DRB III tool to read them. That being said, I don't see why the "standard" process of turning the wheels to...
Wow, that's cool to know. Mine have plenty of wear on them from 130k+ miles of driving on them, but I've noticed they are a little oddly colored. I think the thing I notice more is that the corner of the throttle pedal has just a little bit of what looks like plastic protective covering...
That's a shame. I never dealt with them personally, but they seemed like a nice shop and we can use as many as we can get when it comes to Vipers. There are already so few of them around.
Yeah, I guess the "easy" way to think about it is if you have ground on pin 4 you are getting readings from the left sensor and if you have 5v on pin 4 you get readings from the right sensor. You would have to supply the 5v yourself from somewhere though, so I'm not sure if it's worth dealing...
I've had similar issues with my TPMS sensors from time to time. I have full aftermarket cloned sensors at this point (they are programmed to have the same IDs as the original OEM ones). However, every once in a while (seems more common when I have the key on for an extended period before...
I could see them maybe being an early prototype set as well. I think a lot of times companies will put a feeling out for customer cars to use to develop new products, and with the limited number of Vipers out there I could see that. They are also simple enough looking that I could see them...
I could think of a couple different things, but hard to say without actually hearing it in person. The sway bar end links are basically small ball joints as well and not naturally greaseable, so they could maybe make some kind of noise. Same story on the toe link, but I would imagine an end...
It wasn't that hard as I recall, though the systems might be very slightly different. The gen 3+ uses a switch and electric motors to turn a worm ***** to move the pedals up and down. It was pretty easy to adjust though as I think the motor was only attached with two bolts or something like...
That's pretty wild. Almost sounds like the BCM is either losing connection or maybe thinks the windows are all the way up or down already and not letting them move.
I know what you mean about the clutch. My 04 seems to have a very long throw on it as well and is hard to get adjusted in a place that's comfortable to use all three pedals. At one point I actually manually adjusted just the clutch by disconnecting the other pedals from the adjustment cables...
Wow, that is quite a sound. I don't think I've ever heard one crack like that. Normally I think they are more of a creaking sound, but certainly sounds like something is going on back there for sure that's worth checking out.
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