Viper diffs are known to clunk when brand new. Have you had the car for a while and noticed it getting worse or is it new to you? Just curious as that's one of the number one comments that people have when the drive a Viper.
Yeah, I was thinking similar. It's entirely possible your harness has a fault in it due to touching a header pipe or something, so it wouldn't matter if the sensor is good if the harness has damage somewhere.
Very odd, though then again I don't really know how exports work as that might play into some of this. I could picture requiring information to be included on an import/export sheet that might cover modifications or options, so I could see someone modifying the car in the US before exporting it...
Email [email protected] with the issues you are looking for. We have about 5 left of each issue for the most part, so we can hopefully get you what you're looking for.
You have any pictures? I would be very skeptical that any car cam from the factory with 4 extra gauges like those. Every mod on that car sound like typical aftermarket stuff. Even potentially sounds like a rebuilt/upgraded engine with the color difference as I don't believe they ever did...
Let me check. I know we used to have a couple of most issues still at one point. I thought we had them listed on the store, but looks like they aren't there for some reason.
Glad you got it figured out! I'm guilty of hanging on to old broken stuff as well, though I've head several times now that there are places that will repair the originals, so I guess I've always got a backup plan if I need it.
I'd agree, the socket shouldn't matter to the operation of the latching part. Fortunately the center console comes off really easily. The worst of it is just taking the shift knob off, otherwise it's pretty much just press tabs holding everything in and some harnesses to unplug.
I saw in a different thread in the past where someone had an earlier gen that had the gen 3/4 side sill insulation retro fitted. It seems to be reasonably good stuff and it works by mounting to the sill itself instead of the exhaust, so I think it's better for pipes in that it tends to do...
Oh, you mean it doesn't even have the socket period? I was thinking you meant it just didn't have the knob thing that actually has the lighter coil in it. Now I'm curious how they are supposed to work...
The pop up one is a power point, it never had a lighter insert as far as I'm aware. The one inside the center console is the one that has the lighter. As for it not staying down, that I don't know without tearing one apart. I know mine is a little finicky at times, but it does eventually go...
Hmm, I agree, kind of hard to tell. I think it's likely more just aftermarket exhaust kind of noise that accentuates the stock sound compared to a cam, but a dyno would likely tell a better story.
At the moment I'm running no cats (Kansas), but also because there's just no room to put them in...
It can be pretty difficult with the convertible since the battery is in the trunk, which is completely separated from the passenger cabin. My car originally had a huge amp in the trunk when I bought it and they drilled some holes in the panel behind the seat to route the speaker wires from the...
Any idea where your cam came from? My original exhaust setup was a Borla cat back that I really liked. Deeper muscle car sound and good roar when you laid into it. Swapped to long tube M&M headers and got rid of the cats, but kept the Borlas after that and it got a "buzzier" sound too it...
Guessing this isn't the case on your car, but valve cover leaks often show up at the oil pan as well. I know on my 2004 that the oil pan often looked a little wet and had some drips on it that I had a hard time tracking down. New valve cover gaskets seemed to fix it for the most part.
How often do you drive the car? Wondering if it might just need a bit of an "Italian tune up" with some highway driving for extended periods to clean things out. Though if you need to pass to drive it that becomes a chicken and egg problem. My mom's 94 had a bad coil a while back that gave...
Why not just replace the current fan module? It seems like you're going to spend more time and money trying to retrofit a new system than to just replace the old one since it seems like you found the problem. Then it's just a straight drop in and maybe a couple hundred bucks if that and you're...
I'm not sure if bypassing the fan is a good idea or not. I guess the pump isn't all that different from any other pump, but think about the circuit for a second. In stock form, the pump outputs enough pressure and flow to run two different systems. The fan uses more volume of fluid and has a...
I mean, there would be some pressure in return lines, but it should be significantly less than what would be on the feed side. Return lines go to the back of the reservoir and are held on with simple spring clamps, so I would guess that they would only have a couple psi in them, not the 100+...
The return lines shouldn't be under pressure, so that's a bit odd to start with. I'm surprised it would rupture the line and not just blow it off the pipe bead at the clamp, unless we're talking different hoses. There should be 5 total hoses in the system if I remember correctly:
1. High...
I don't know anything about that kit, but any chance something could have been installed backwards? Only thing that comes to mind for me if something is all the way at the end of its adjustment. Or if there is a difference between driver and passenger and the wrong kit was installed?
That's kind of where I am (assuming I ever wanted to really go all out on my car at least). I have the same problem on my G3 Hemi in my Dart. Any of the newer heads for it mean changing everything attached to them, which adds up pretty quickly. I've seen some pretty dang good results with...
Yeah, I have a feeling it wouldn't be incredibly Viper specific, but since they don't seem to put numbers on them either way it would mean a fun search to try to find any more info. I did notice on mine that there is a stop actually built into the top of the housing that the coupler between the...
I've done my driver side so far, but my passenger side is probably due before too long one of these days. It makes a bit of an interesting thunk when it first starts going down, but has kept working fine so far, so fingers crossed.
Ah, okay. I think I remember seeing that before as well on the housing. I agree the diagram seems wrong and appears to have changed over the years to correct it. I'll have to do some checks for the housing part number and see what I can find. I thought I remember finding it in the past...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.