No offense, but with nearly brand new paint, the results should have been nothing less than spectacular. I'm guessing the poli-seal must have some fillers in it to mask the marring left by the claying process?
So does that mean you aren't buying one now? It seems like yesterday (or maybe before) you were all about buying one, and the day before that not so much. I think Eggo would have been a better user name.
Here's a good gear ratio calculator to play around with:
http://xse.com/leres/ss/calculator.html
Just put in your tire size, change the redline (6250 for a Gen III, 6400 for a Gen IV), and adjust the rear end ratio and you'll have your answer.
The one in Dayton? I had them mount up my refinished SRT 5-spokes when I couldn't find a tire shop worth a damn around here...good dudes, and did a great job. If I had known about them earlier, I would have never had to have my wheels refinished in the first place. Nothing like skipping a pry...
It really is that easy, but there are a couple of connectors under the seat that you'll need to access/unplug if you want to get the seat out of the car.
If you do go to remove the seat, lean the headrest toward the center of the car, and pull the seat out bottom first. Also make sure you...
You mention that it is harder to launch...has that been at the track, and if so, what times and traps have you seen thus far (keeping in mind that you are still getting used to it)?
Wait...so you're telling me that 3rd gear isn't 1:1?
Sorry...had to go there.
It's definitely interesting to note the differences between the two...if I ever have my TR-6060 rebuilt, I'll likely consider the .80/.62 5th/6th cluster to make those gears a bit more useful on the highway...
I'm not sure what "LS1 community" you've been a part of, but if you've ever been a member of (or visited) LS1Tech, you can thank Tony since he is one of the co-founders of it. It is arguably one of the best tech sites out there for the LS1.
Is that what we are talking about here? This seems to have gotten lost in your rambling.
Let's do a quick recap...looking at the post below, you'll note that the Gen IV and Gen V were on the same dyno on the same day.
Was it truly apples to apples? No, because the Gen IV wasn't 100%...
They likely never will...I'm not sure what the exact finishing process is on them, but they will never shine as bright as a non-clear coated polished aluminum wheel, and certainly not as bright as chrome.
Well, the Master Blaster isn't really "heated" per se...that the air gets hot is a function of how hot the motors get pumping the air, and that heat gets transferred to the air in the process of being used. I've seen identical designs marketed as livestock dryers...
I'm glad you said something about this...I've always wondered if I was doing something wrong, because I always had marring after I was done claying a car. It is never bad, and the lightest of polishes seems to get rid of it, but still...always made me wonder.
I've owned a Master Blaster for quite some time now (4-5 years at this point...can't remember), and the two most valuable things I've found are the rubber nozzle and the heated air. I used an electric (corded) leaf blower prior to it, and I always seemed to bump the plastic nozzle into the...
From reading your previous posts, you went through a lot of crap to get where you are today, but looking at those pics...man, it had to be at least somewhat worth it. Your car looks awesome.
The timing would be the issue...normally, you'd pull a few degrees of timing when running nitrous. Yes, you could get the AFR in line by changing the fuel jets, but you'd have to reliably trick the PCM into pulling the correct amount of timing. Race gas might help, but it would be at the...
Here...read this article:
http://www.hotrod.com/techfaq/hrdp_0405_chassis_dyno_guide/viewall.html
4th gear is 1:1...it stays 1:1 regardless of rear axle ratio. That's why the rear axle ratio is a variable input for any dyno...if you told the dyno it was a 3.07 and you really had 3.55s...
You are right, but they have to make them cheap enough for mass production, and also reliable enough to get through at least the powertrain warranty, and longer if the company that goes this route doesn't want to look like they put out engines that die as soon as the warranty is up.
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