0w40 or 10w30?

voi9

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Where do u guys purchase your 0w-40 mobil 1.. none of the stores around here stock it anymore...Anyone purchasing it on the web where the shipping is not to expensive and makes it worthwhile?
NAPA Auto is the only place I can find it. Do a search online and see if there are any in your area. :2tu:
 
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adg44

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Also, Im no technical genius, but I think Mobil 1 is good oil and well liked by many. Saying that is factory fill because of some deal they worked with manufacturers is BS. If Dodge, BMW, Chevrolet, Mercedes,etc and others who use Mobil 1 wanted cheap oil, they would just use Chevron supreme. Im sure Mobil 1 gives manufacturers a great deal, but manufacturers have to know it will hold up during service intervals. I dont think the factory would put in a oil that would break down and cause engine failure, otherwise they could have engine warranty claims. The fact that many hi-end European cars use Mobil 1 says something about the company and its oil.

It's all very political. VW and Audi use Castrol because they have an agreement with Castrol. Not because it's the best oil. Same deal goes with Porsche and why they use Mobil1. I didn't say it was cheap oil, but it's whomever presents them with a better deal.

All I am saying is that for the price of Mobil1, there are many other better oils. You are free to have a different opinion. :)

- Anthony
 

Schulmann

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I am stunned that nobody is talking about AMSOIL :)
They have good oil too. It is just for laugh

Buy the was if you had a look on the data posted in 4th above post you would see that 10W30 is a ligther oil. Actually it harms less the engin when you start it up at 60F outside temperature. I really don't get why people say that the 0w40 is ligther ?!?!

The advantage of the 0W40 is the pour point. I think it is -70F ! WHO WILL DRIVE HIS VIPER BELOW -20F ? At -20F you speen the rear wheels in 5th gear ... The 0W40 can be used in extreem cold. In Canada when the temperature drops below -30F we need to use one of these extreem oils. Personnaly I believe it was a Daimler pressure to swith the Viper to 0w40. I am still wondering why a performance car runs on this extreem oil ? A 5W40 oil would be perfect too. MB run from -40F to 120F. They are daily driver cars. Nobody will drive a Viper on the North pole !

The best way to understand the viscosity change effect on the oil is to test different tranny oils in the Viper transmission. For instance during the winter we sometime swith to full ATF3 oil in the manual transmissions. The ATF is good to -60F in the trannies. The best place to feel the difference of the temperature on the oil is the Viper transmission. All other major trannies run double synchros so they will not suffer so much from viscosity change. When the temperature is lower at 40F, Try to drive the Viper with ATF3, Light Syncro 75W85 and 75w90 Manual tranny oil. You will feel the difference instantly ....

Double syncro trannies will feel the viscosity change below 10F. For instance a Mercedes tranny will get sticky at 10F.


Now imagine this "sticky" effect within the Viper engin with 5w30 oil, 10w30 and 0w40 oil. When engin is cold it uses the most.

The worst is when you run the engin with all these "lower" temperature modifications. For instance I use a 170F thermostate. My engin runs at a lower temperature. If I use a 0w40 or a 5w50 it would be too thick for highway. So I run my engin with 5w30 which viscosity should be similar to 0w40 at 170F. I just started to regret my 170F a couple of weeks ago ... I destroyed the bearings in my viper transmission at 12000mi. It was running too cold at 140F with a too thick tranny oil ...
 
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Grant

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Also, Im no technical genius, but I think Mobil 1 is good oil and well liked by many. Saying that is factory fill because of some deal they worked with manufacturers is BS. If Dodge, BMW, Chevrolet, Mercedes,etc and others who use Mobil 1 wanted cheap oil, they would just use Chevron supreme. Im sure Mobil 1 gives manufacturers a great deal, but manufacturers have to know it will hold up during service intervals. I dont think the factory would put in a oil that would break down and cause engine failure, otherwise they could have engine warranty claims. The fact that many hi-end European cars use Mobil 1 says something about the company and its oil.
Its not that Mobil1 is a bad oil, its just that there are better options out there. However, Mobil1 is cheap and readily available, which isn't true for oils like German Castrol, Redline, Amsoil, and Royal Purple (which supposedly isn't that great either), and others. Its probably overkill for most people's uses anyways.

There seems to be some controversy over whether or not Mobil 1 is still made with group III base stocks.
 
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adg44

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There seems to be some controversy over whether or not Mobil 1 is still made with group III base stocks.

It used to be made with Group IV base stocks, and they moved down to Group III.

Mobil1 is cheaper than RP, Amsoil, and a few others, but it's more expensive than Valvoline and Pennzoil synethetics which are just as easily available.

I'm going to change the oil now. Apparently my filter is the correct part number for the 2003, but the 2006/2008 models have that newer filter. My dealer didn't have any more in stock when I called them, so I'm going to use this for the time being and in 3,000 miles I'll change the oil again and use the new filter.

- Anthony
 

Jeff Monheim

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Schulmann, I like Amsoil a lot, :D I use it in my motorcycles one stock Harley and one custom Bourget, and in my 02 rt/10. I am sticking with the Mobil 0w40 as recommended for the 08s for the time being. If I have any warranty issues I want to be able to say I use the factory oil with confidence!
By the way how did the 200mph run go?? I would not know as I did not get an invitation! :rolleyes:
:drive::drive::drive:
 

Grant

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It used to be made with Group IV base stocks, and they moved down to Group III.
So I keep hearing, but I've never seen a source to back that claim up.

Not that it matters much to me. Redline clearly outperforms Mobil1 in high-temperature high-shear (HTHS) tests, which makes it my oil of choice.
 

SSGViper

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I'm going to change the oil now. Apparently my filter is the correct part number for the 2003, but the 2006/2008 models have that newer filter. My dealer didn't have any more in stock when I called them, so I'm going to use this for the time being and in 3,000 miles I'll change the oil again and use the new filter.

- Anthony

:rolaugh::dunno:
 

MikeR

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I'm going to change the oil now. Apparently my filter is the correct part number for the 2003, but the 2006/2008 models have that newer filter. My dealer didn't have any more in stock when I called them, so I'm going to use this for the time being and in 3,000 miles I'll change the oil again and use the new filter.

- Anthony


The oil filter you most likely got was a black filter used on 04-06 Viper and many other Chrysler vehicles. At about the time of VOI9, I think August 2006, they started making the hi-performance filter. It is white and says "Viper" on the filter.(part # 05037836AA)

This filter is supposed to help aid in higher oil pressure and be a better filter. It will work on 03-06 Vipers. It WILL NOT work on a 08. If your dealer is telling you there getting you a filter for 06/08, there wrong, because its either or, not the same filter.
 
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adg44

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The oil filter you most likely got was a black filter used on 04-06 Viper and many other Chrysler vehicles. At about the time of VOI9, I think August 2006, they started making the hi-performance filter. It is white and says "Viper" on the filter.(part # 05037836AA)

That is what I got (the old style filter). They didn't have that other part number in stock though.

I didn't end up changing the oil today because my ramps are just a wee bit too tall to get under the front bumper. I didn't have any 2x4s to drive up onto either. I'll just borrow a lift tomorrow at my buddy's shop and do it there.

- Anthony
 
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adg44

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Alright, attempt number 2 today. I looked up part number 5037836AA on partsvoice and found a dealer 25 miles away that has one in stock. I called, they are holding it for me, and I'm going to ride the motorcycle out there now and pick it up. Cost is $11.50.

I'll then return the old filter to the other dealer. May as well use the new style filter.

Also, I picked up some 2"x10"x16" boards to put under the wheels and make a "step" to drive up onto the ramps so I can change the oil in my garage.

I'll report back later today!

- Anthony
 
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Venomiss

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Alright, attempt number 2 today. I looked up part number 5037836AA on partsvoice and found a dealer 25 miles away that has one in stock. I called, they are holding it for me, and I'm going to ride the motorcycle out there now and pick it up. Cost is $11.50.

I'll then return the old filter to the other dealer. May as well use the new style filter.

Also, I picked up some 2"x10"x16" boards to put under the wheels and make a "step" to drive up onto the ramps so I can change the oil in my garage.

I'll report back later today!

- Anthony

Thank you Anthony. One thing to mention might be what our wonderful mechanic Jerry Dobson does when he changes our oil. He puts the date directly on the oil filter and signs his name. It's a good idea for someone to use.
 

Dawg2Snake

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I am using Mobil 1 15w-50. But i live in the extreme heat. I plan to go back to 0W-40 in the "colder" months. Debating whether I should switch to Redline or Valvoline VR1 after reading this link. Food for thought - any comments from the oil experts here?

Zddp Oil Issues
 

dave6666

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I have two of the 5 qt. 10w30 Mobil One jugs in the garage waiting on my next oil change. Should I return them and go 0w40 shopping? (just for normal street cruising and your occasional run from the cops type driving)

I'm in the exact same boat Chad. So I'm balancing that act of standing in the return line at WalMart trying to explain oil science to the gravitationally and cosmetically challenged return clerk person, or just waiting one more oil change to switch.

:eater:

Next oil change is 10w30 it looks like...
 

Racer Robbie

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There is a good reason that the oil was changed from 10-30 to the 0-40 Mobil 1, flow to the top of the engine on cold start when the motor needs it the most. Also the filter you SHOULD have is a 5037836AA just in case.

This question is for Woodhouse, Parts Rack, or Chuck Tator.

A lot of viper owners who have a 2003 viper have asked if they should switch to the new 0-40 Mobil 1 spec. 2003 vipers call for 10-30. What is your opinion on this?
 

Dawg2Snake

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Mobil 1 or ??

I am using Mobil 1 15w-50. But i live in the extreme heat. I plan to go back to 0W-40 in the "colder" months. Debating whether I should switch to Redline or Valvoline VR1 after reading this link. Food for thought - any comments from the oil experts here?

Zddp Oil Issues

Hmmm... Still waiting for some of the oil experts to comment about the ZDDP issues in my link above. In the link is a second link to Valvoline technical service bulletin of June 2008. There seems to be evidence that Mobil 1 has some superior alternatives.

Looking for comments... TIA
 
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Venomiss

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Re: Mobil 1 or ??

Hmmm... Still waiting for some of the oil experts to comment about the ZDDP issues in my link above. In the link is a second link to Valvoline technical service bulletin of June 2008. There seems to be evidence that Mobil 1 has some superior alternatives.

Looking for comments... TIA

Another place to ask this question would be the SRT engineer chat for this Wednesday night on September 17th. Maybe post this here:

http://forums.viperclub.org/srt-engineering-q-area/618188-srt-chat-here-september-17th.html
 

SweetRed04

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I'd like to hear a response to this as well. I have an '04 that calls for 10-30 and a dealer told me NOT to switch to 0-40 since there MIGHT be something different internally (albeit unlikely).

The sole issue is maintaining warranty. I am half way on mileage and 3/7 through the time warranty (I will turn 36,000 miles Thursday when I arrive in NH from IA!) and don't want an oil selection issue to stop a claim, however unlikely there would be an engine problem with street use.....

This question is for Woodhouse, Parts Rack, or Chuck Tator.

A lot of viper owners who have a 2003 viper have asked if they should switch to the new 0-40 Mobil 1 spec. 2003 vipers call for 10-30. What is your opinion on this?
 
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adg44

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I was told the switch was purely M1 oriented, that the 10w30 M1 wasn't holding up as well, and that's why they switched to 0w40 M1... not because of any internal differences.
 

Viper Specialty

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I was told the switch was purely M1 oriented, that the 10w30 M1 wasn't holding up as well, and that's why they switched to 0w40 M1... not because of any internal differences.

And that is completely false.

There were internal differences from 03-04 and 05-06. The main bearings changed design on the later cars forcing a switch because of the Viper's oil pump size, the added protection was just a bonus. In 2008, the oil pump size was revised to keep up with demand while using the 0W-40, even with the increased demand from the VVT. Before anyone asks, YES, the new bearings are a much better design, and YES Gen-2 and Early Gen-3 cars can be converted over to them.

1992-2004 cars can use 0W-40 without any problems, it is definitely the better oil choice of the two considering the application. Again, there will be no problems on ANY Vipers, from 1992-2004 using the 0W-40. You will see a slightly higher pressure when hot and idleing, but thats about it. 2005-2008 cars on the other hand, I would NOT advise returning to 10W-30 in anything but an emergency, and never on a track. The oil is just not thick enough for the clearances and oil volume needed at higher temparatures with these bearing designs. [and the same goes for any 96-04 car that has been rebuilt and converted to the newer style bearings]
 
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adg44

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I am using Mobil 1 15w-50. But i live in the extreme heat. I plan to go back to 0W-40 in the "colder" months. Debating whether I should switch to Redline or Valvoline VR1 after reading this link. Food for thought - any comments from the oil experts here?

Zddp Oil Issues

Valvoline VR1 is a great short-duration oil. It doesn't have a lot of the detergents in it so it can't do an extended oil drain. Unless you are racing the car, I don't see a need for this, however.
 
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adg44

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There were internal differences from 03-04 and 05-06. The main bearings changed design on the later cars forcing a switch because of the Viper's oil pump size, the added protection was just a bonus. In 2008, the oil pump size was revised to keep up with demand while using the 0W-40, even with the increased demand from the VVT. Before anyone asks, YES, the new bearings are a much better design, and YES Gen-2 and Early Gen-3 cars can be converted over to them.

Thanks for the clarification. I did not know there was a change in the bearing design.

1992-2004 cars can use 0W-40 without any problems, it is definitely the better oil choice of the two considering the application. Again, there will be no problems on ANY Vipers, from 1992-2004 using the 0W-40. You will see a slightly higher pressure when hot and idleing, but thats about it. 2005-2008 cars on the other hand, I would NOT advise returning to 10W-30 in anything but an emergency, and never on a track. The oil is just not thick enough for the clearances and oil volume needed at higher temparatures with these bearing designs. [and the same goes for any 96-04 car that has been rebuilt and converted to the newer style bearings]

I agree as well, M1 0w40 is a much better oil than M1 10w30. If you see the specs on the second page though, there are other 10w30 oils that are thicker than the M1 10w30.

- Anthony
 
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adg44

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10 w30 is thicker than 5 w30 and 0 w30

Don't confuse the winter number with the thickness of the oil. A 30 weight is going to be the same pretty much the same thickness regardless what buffers are in the oil to extend its temperature range.

The w doesn't stand for weight, it stands for winter. So 0w-30, 5w-30, 10w-30, etc. The lower the winter number, the colder the temperature the oil can be used in.

- Anthony
 

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