Old thread but I thought I could share may experience in going after the root cause of this issue. If you have long crank times and you have confirmed it's due to fuel bleed down, the most likely cause is 1) the check ball within the fuel pump, 2) (or more likely) the pressure regulator leaks. Anything else is outside the tank and you'll probably be able to smell it or see it. The fix for 1 or 2 involves removal of the fuel tank. Something I was reluctant to do because I've heard its a nightmare involving grinding material away etc etc. It's really quite and easy job and its worth doing if you want things back to normal. A lift is a big plus. This applies to Gen 1 RT/10s
0) run the tank down as low as is practical
1) Remove the fuel tank cover on the front facing wall of the trunk. The steps are:
a) unclasp the wiring harness above the tank cover
b) Drill the center out of the rivets (3/8 bit) which are around 3 sides of the trunk cover (both sides and bottom)
c) push a 1.5 inch putty knife around those 3 side to break the seal. This is easily done and with a little care you'll not damage a thing.
d) The cover will be able to be removed. (It'll be dusty in there)
2) loosen the 2 tank band nuts at the bottom of the tank, enough to unclasp them. The same clasps (without nuts) are at the other end of the bands and the bands may be removed now by lifting the bands and wiggling them a little. (They are easily re-attached later when the splash guards are off)
3) The next steps are to gain access to both side of the tank and disconnect it for removal. There are 4 connections plus the filler tube. Fuel out and tank vacuum are on the left. Tank vent is on the right. Filler tube is on the right. Electrical connection happens when the tank is 1/2 way out.
a) Remove gas cap. Remove paint protection flap. Remove the 3 screws the flap exposes.
b) Lift the car and remove rear tires.
c) Remove battery cover at the bottom of the left splash guard
-- 4 bolts bottom of left rear bumper
-- 1 bolt near these bumper bolts into frame
-- 3 bolts into rear splash guard
-- 3 screws into bumper cover
Disconnect negative battery terminal
d) Remove left rear splash guard
-- Remove all plastic push pin fasteners. Drill out rivets on quarter panel (just the front one and back will do, but I do them all)
-- Work from each edge. Use a hard plastic pry that won't hurt your paint, and work the splash guard out. Moving to the top as the last part to remove. That was the hard part. You have to do the right side of course. Basically same thing but no battery cover.
e) Remove right splash guard
4) Remove tank vent tube
a) Under right fender, Compress clamp closest to you which comes off the filler neck
b) work the vent tube off
5) Remove gas filler tube
a) move tube in and drop it out of the gas cap hole
b Rotate 180 degrees and work it out of the tank
6) Siphon remaining gas out of tank through the now open tank. The lighter the tank the better
7) While (6) is going, go to the left wheel well and disconnect vacuum line at the junction near filter
8) Disconnect filter from fuel high pressure line (you don't have pressure in the line or you'd not be doing this
-- spray junction with WD40
-- rotate sleeve and tube back and forth a bit
-- Push tube into filter
-- Push sleeve into filter with adjustable wrench while pulling on fuel tube
9) Remove EMPTY tank
a) Go over to right side and move tank back guiding filler hole through the trunk wall
b) Go under the car and you'll be able to push the tank past frame member
c) Go into the trunk and pull the tank far enough out that you can see the electrical connector
d) lift the clasp and disconnect
e) Remove tank all the way. It needs to point down a little at the end of travel out
Installation is the reverse of everything with one exception. Once tank is back in place you want to reinstall the bands while splash guards are off. You can get to the fronts of the band clasps from the wheel wells. Have a look at them before you put the tank in so you know what you are trying to achieve. Reconnect the bands and tighten the nuts.
I would run the car before reinstalling splash guards and check for leaks.
Pump removal etc will be in another post if this is at all of interest to anyone.