a/c coolent?

STUGOTS

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what a/c coolent do i use and where does it go exactly, im out and the a/c is not working.

thanks
 
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STUGOTS

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the a/c is sending out hot air any ideas at all its driving me nuts
 

Rollin4

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Got the same problem with mine. You have a leak in the system. Mine is going in next week for a dye test to find where it's leaking. Probably O rings at Compressor since I can't find any leaks at fittings. Once I find out where and what parts I need, I'll call Chuck Tator and place order for the parts. I'm quite sure there is someone on this board who will have the answer where to look. Forget recharging if you have a leak, I tried that last summer.
 
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STUGOTS

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i don't see any fluid anywhere and it just happend all of a sudden it was workin really well at that, is it possible the coolent leaked out?
 

gthomas

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Look at the labels attached to the a/c system to see what type of freon to use. If it is blowing hot, and is out of freon, have it pressure/die tested first. Otherwise you will be wasting money for freon, that will be taken out anyways, to fix. I don't know if car companies have reclamation tanks that allow them to reuse the freon, but normally not. Some places charge about 65 bucks to do the pressure/die test, but will drop it if repaired. On the a/c lines, there are 2 covered fittings where the freon goes. However, if you do not know what you are doing, I would not recommend it. The system is filled to pressure in terms of pounds. If you do not attach the fittings correctly, or take them off at the wrong time, etc., it can leak/get on you, and cause freon burn, which would be worse than/equal to liquid oxygen/nitrogen(the one they use to remove callouses). One reason I would also recommend taking it to a professional, is because once an a/c system leaks empty, or is taken apart, a part of the system which is like a filter, becomes contaminated. YOU DO NOT WANT TO REUSE IT!!!! (I have mindblock and forgot the name of the part) Also, since 1995/6, the EPA went on to further regulate freon, if you do not have a license, you may not be able to get it.
I was joking around the other time with you, this time it is real. Thanks for being a good sport before. :smirk:
 
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STUGOTS

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but it is possible to just run out a freon with no leak correct?
 

gthomas

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i don't see any fluid anywhere and it just happend all of a sudden it was workin really well at that, is it possible the coolent leaked out?


YES, it's a gas/liquid under pressure and will not necessarily leave evidence of a leak. Usually if it is cold enough to cool the air, the only thing you will notice is water drips under the car from condensation. But then that usually means it is working.
 

gthomas

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but it is possible to just run out a freon with no leak correct?

It is normal for systems using freon to lose some, without a leak. But it would affect the performance(not as cold), but would not be blowing hot(normally). Also, you would notice a difference that would allow you to get it checked before it goes all out. They can detect the freon from a leak, after that if they can't find a leak, they fill it with die, and use a die detector. That is what they had to do on my sisters car.
 

gthomas

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if they find the leak is it expensive to repair?

No prices, but if they have to fix a part, because of the filter contamination, it could be 200+. You can't quote a price by just approximating the problem. It could be something else that is affecting the a/c system. That is why you want to at least pay the diagnostic fee to find out what the problem is.
 
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STUGOTS

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1 more question for ya how many pounds of freon does a viper take?
 

gthomas

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No problem.
Here is what happened to my sisters car. She let it go two years without checking it, and it would not blow cooler over that time. The hotter it got, the warmer it would blow. I took it down, found no leak, they filled it, still nothing, and then I took it down for a die test. They found nothing. It may not be leaking. You just let it go too long in between checks. Expect the worst, hope for the best.
 

Matt M PA

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Vipers of this vintage use R134 as refrigerant. (Freon is a brand name, like Coke is for cola.) R134 may be bought by anyone, R12 must be bought by a certified HVAC tech.

They even sell "kits" at Walmart to top off 134 systems.
 

GraphiteGTS

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Don't forget your refrigerant oil. I once burned out a compressor by not adding enough compressor oil (in an R12 system).
 
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STUGOTS

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how much would a new compressor cost any idea?

also where to fill this oil

and what type of oil
 

gthomas

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Find out what the problem is first. You can pressurize the system, and look that way first.
Yep, R134A is available OTC. But the CFC based freons(most notably R-12/R-22) are only available to certified HVAC techs. However, there is a substitute freon for R-12 and R-22 that is a little more expensive than the regular, but no license needed. However, you can get a license over the internet. How convenient.
Isn't R-12 mainly in homes/businesses, R-22 in older cars?
 

gthomas

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That's why I was asking. I remember both numbers, and I remember the switch to R134A, but I was under the impression that they were banning the other ones. They didn't have an enviro-friendly substitute for R12/22 at that time. And I remember when they started making us reclaim and recycle the old freon. Increased the prices for the customers. I have been out of the HVAC biz since the end of 96.
 

Joseph Dell

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So just to confirm, the 99's use R134? I know I should just check the labels on the car... it is in the basement, so i'll get to it in a few min...

STUGOTS - Did you ever get your problem fixed? I have a 99 and noticed today that the AC wasn't quite as cold as it should be. At all. If all I need to do is to refill the R134, I'll go to wallmart right now and get some! :laugh:

JD
 

AviP

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It's R134a. My 97 service manual has warnings all over saying NOT TO USE R12. And let's call it "refrigerant" and NOT "coolant".

Here's the procedure to check the "refrigerant" level in the manual.

- Clean the sight glass on the filter drier.
- Start and warm the engine holding idle at 1100rpm.
- Put the A/C on and fan blower on high.
- Work area temp should be at least 70F.
- If the compressor does not engage, the refrigerant level is probably too low.
- If the compressor does engage, allow 1 minute for refrigerant to stabilize.
- View refrigerant through the sight glass.
- Suction line should be cold and sight glass should be clear.
- If foam bubbles are visible, refrigerant level is low.
- Occassional bubbles are normal at temperatures over 110F or below 70F.
- If suction line is cold and occassional bubbles are visible in the sight glass, block the condensor air flow.
- This will increase compressor discharge pressure and bubbles should dissipate.
- If not, refrigerant is low.

Whew! Hope this helps some.
 
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