2001 RT/10
This is a small detail, but worth noting. I installed a new single-din Kenwood deck using the stock brackets that screw to the side of the deck. I didn't notice until it was all back together, but the deck was recessed too far back and there was a gap at the bottom maybe about 1/2" that you could see through and see the top of the A/C unit, etc. There is a good video on YouTube by a guy called WorkinOnIt and he made spacers out of some clear acrylic. For whatever reason, I didn't think about the spacers on the 1st attempt. Probably because my old deck had a much beefier trim around it so it was not an issue.
I didn't want to use hard spacers just in case my deck trim ring was a bit different in size than his, which could have caused the dash piece to not want to clip back in, and I also did not want to drill new holes in the stock bracket, so I used some little rubber feet about 1/2" thick as pictured below. I'd imagine any hard but slightly compressible rubber or other material would work, but I had these laying around.
I drilled out the center holes bigger and trimmed two sides with a utility knife so they were flat, then using tiny pieces of double stick, positioned them over the two holes in the dash so the holes lined up. So they end up sandwiched between the bracket and the dash holes.
A little bit longer screws were used, 1 1/4", probably could have got away with 1".
This allowed adjustment of the depth of the deck simply by tightening the screws until it was just right, as the rubber compresses enough to allow the adjustment.
Sorry I didn't take more pictures of the process but if you're ever doing one, it should be apparent
One other thing from the video I would not have thought of was to tape and protect all around the areas where the dash piece is removed. The clips on the back are sharp and as you're messing with it to disconnect the window switches and lighter, you'll scratch your dash plastic up pretty bad if it's not protected. I taped all around and taped some microfiber towels that hung down over the vents, gauges, etc. The guy in the video didn't think of it until after and he scratched his dash up pretty good.
One last thing I'll mention is that the two window switches were really in there tight. They did not want to come out and were even more reticent to go back in. I was afraid I was going to break the trim piece trying to get them back in so I ended up just removing the 4 screws that hold the two switches into the trim piece and did it that way.
Hope this helps someone!
This is a small detail, but worth noting. I installed a new single-din Kenwood deck using the stock brackets that screw to the side of the deck. I didn't notice until it was all back together, but the deck was recessed too far back and there was a gap at the bottom maybe about 1/2" that you could see through and see the top of the A/C unit, etc. There is a good video on YouTube by a guy called WorkinOnIt and he made spacers out of some clear acrylic. For whatever reason, I didn't think about the spacers on the 1st attempt. Probably because my old deck had a much beefier trim around it so it was not an issue.
I didn't want to use hard spacers just in case my deck trim ring was a bit different in size than his, which could have caused the dash piece to not want to clip back in, and I also did not want to drill new holes in the stock bracket, so I used some little rubber feet about 1/2" thick as pictured below. I'd imagine any hard but slightly compressible rubber or other material would work, but I had these laying around.
I drilled out the center holes bigger and trimmed two sides with a utility knife so they were flat, then using tiny pieces of double stick, positioned them over the two holes in the dash so the holes lined up. So they end up sandwiched between the bracket and the dash holes.
A little bit longer screws were used, 1 1/4", probably could have got away with 1".
This allowed adjustment of the depth of the deck simply by tightening the screws until it was just right, as the rubber compresses enough to allow the adjustment.
Sorry I didn't take more pictures of the process but if you're ever doing one, it should be apparent
One other thing from the video I would not have thought of was to tape and protect all around the areas where the dash piece is removed. The clips on the back are sharp and as you're messing with it to disconnect the window switches and lighter, you'll scratch your dash plastic up pretty bad if it's not protected. I taped all around and taped some microfiber towels that hung down over the vents, gauges, etc. The guy in the video didn't think of it until after and he scratched his dash up pretty good.
One last thing I'll mention is that the two window switches were really in there tight. They did not want to come out and were even more reticent to go back in. I was afraid I was going to break the trim piece trying to get them back in so I ended up just removing the 4 screws that hold the two switches into the trim piece and did it that way.
Hope this helps someone!
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